what is everyones thoughts on the tubb springs for the rem action? i recently put one in my long action but noticed that it drags on the inside of the bolt body. i have read that this is a bad thing....?? for those that use them, do you feel that there is any advantage over the oem part other than the advertised reduced lock time?
tubb springs
- Thread starter bingo1010
- Start date
I have been using the CS springs from Tubb for several years.
For the most part I am very happy with their performance.
I have had OEM Reminton firing pin springs (from older actions) that were just over 1/2" shorter than they should be. In my estimation the CS spring is a vast improvement over a spring in this condition.
The OEM Remington spring has an OD. of 0.405"
The CS spring has an OD. of 0.398"
I've never had one "Drag" on the inside of the bolt body. They certainly do Increase the force required to lift the bolt handle and #### the sear to a slight degree. I think that this is a function of spring tension and not of contact with the inside of the bolt .
TK
For the most part I am very happy with their performance.
I have had OEM Reminton firing pin springs (from older actions) that were just over 1/2" shorter than they should be. In my estimation the CS spring is a vast improvement over a spring in this condition.
The OEM Remington spring has an OD. of 0.405"
The CS spring has an OD. of 0.398"
I've never had one "Drag" on the inside of the bolt body. They certainly do Increase the force required to lift the bolt handle and #### the sear to a slight degree. I think that this is a function of spring tension and not of contact with the inside of the bolt .
TK
Buy a Wolfe spring. Maybe 10 percent heavier than stock Rem.
I bought a Tubb light firing pin kit with a titanium tip for my short Rem 700. Bolt lift was ridicuolusly hard and draggy. Dry firing it a couple of times sent the titanium tip flying. I now avoid anything Tubb
Sounds like the pin wasn't put in right?
I have a few of TI pin/heavy spring setups and they all function and dryfire fine...Thousands of times.
The spring for the Ti pin is super heavy and I don't like the bolt lift either.
Perhaps an advantage for a highpower shooter.
• Firing Pin--A number of firing-pin issues can cause vertical. First, a firing pin spring that is either too weak or too strong will induce vertical problems. If you think this is the problem change springs and see what happens. Second, a firing pin that is not seated correctly in the bolt (in the cocked position) will cause poor ignition. Take the bolt out of rifle and look in the firing pin hole. If you cannot see the entire end of firing pin it has come out of the hole. Lastly, a firing pin dragging in bolt or shroud can cause vertical. Listen to the sound when you dry fire. If you don't hear the same sound each shot, something is wrong.
This is a quote from an article on 6mmbr.com
I have not used a tub or after market spring. but thought this was worth posting here.
This is a quote from an article on 6mmbr.com
I have not used a tub or after market spring. but thought this was worth posting here.
A lighter firing pin with a heavier mainspring WILL NOT reduce lock time.PERIOD.
F-pin is still traveling the same distance w/ more force to induce more harmonics into the equation.
The only thing that you changed is having a lighter wallet & harder bolt cycling.
On a positive note-
Lighten & TIME the OEM firing pin WILL REDUCE lock time.
Reduced harmonics & 2 finger bolt manipulation.
Guaranteed!!
F-pin is still traveling the same distance w/ more force to induce more harmonics into the equation.
The only thing that you changed is having a lighter wallet & harder bolt cycling.
On a positive note-
Lighten & TIME the OEM firing pin WILL REDUCE lock time.
Reduced harmonics & 2 finger bolt manipulation.
Guaranteed!!
X2, just because a spring is "heavier" or longer in length than the original does that mean it is going to end up giving more consistent, smaller groups downrange.
I believe there is more to it and like cycbb486 suggests, needs to be checked by someone who know's what they are doing.
While I am at it, this goes for any aftermarket "drop in" parts, not just springs.
I think a problem with ignition or function of a firearm needs to be identified and actually exist, and then go from there.
Some aftermarket parts may be worse than the original.
Not in their construction or materials, but in their fit and function within that firearm.
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Force=Mass X Acceleration
Acceleration=Force/Mass
Therefore increase the force and decrease the mass = increased acceleration=increased firing pin speed and decreased lock time...Guaranteed!!!
Why lightening the OEM pin will reduce lock time and using a lighter aftermarket one won't is beyond me?
NormB
Liberty, why I mentioned what I did is I am just learning about those parts of the ignition. I have 2 aftermarket actions where the standard specs for shortrange bench rest are close yet off. I have bolts gone for customizing to bring it into the suggested specs. Will it make the rifle shoot better? We will find out. I am not leaving anything to chance any more.
I have heard about ignition possibly being an issue with poor agging capabilities but refused to believe it. Well I will find out when I get my rifles back on the firing line. Just because it is a custom action does not mean that ALL quality control is met.
Want to learn a bit about ignition, Tony Boyers new book is a WONDERFUL and easy read.
cycbb
I have heard about ignition possibly being an issue with poor agging capabilities but refused to believe it. Well I will find out when I get my rifles back on the firing line. Just because it is a custom action does not mean that ALL quality control is met.
Want to learn a bit about ignition, Tony Boyers new book is a WONDERFUL and easy read.
cycbb
Why lightening the OEM pin will reduce lock time and using a lighter aftermarket one won't is beyond me?
Norm-
You missed one key word from my statement-TIME
Decreasing pin travel .060"-.080" makes a world of difference,that a spring can't.
Send a couple bolt assy's out to be clocked for lock time verification & you'll spend money on components/ammo instead of gimmicks.
Norm-
You missed one key word from my statement-TIME
Decreasing pin travel .060"-.080" makes a world of difference,that a spring can't.
Send a couple bolt assy's out to be clocked for lock time verification & you'll spend money on components/ammo instead of gimmicks.
You are correct, of course reducing travel will decrease lock time.
I have a BR rifle that the Remington pin strike distance has been reduced to .180 from .250. We tested that length with Fed 205M and It lights them reliably. Not so much with CCIBR4.
From waht I am hearing from the Bench Rest gunsmiths, Rem did extensive testing when the 700 action was being introduced on this subject.
I can see lock time being an issue with off hand shooters but can we really see the difference in lock time? I think not. From what I am learning CONSISTENT ignition is more important than lock time. In the BR world that is a firing pin protrusion in the .050-.060 range, spring around 23 lbs and a firing pin fall around .220.
I can see lock time being an issue with off hand shooters but can we really see the difference in lock time? I think not. From what I am learning CONSISTENT ignition is more important than lock time. In the BR world that is a firing pin protrusion in the .050-.060 range, spring around 23 lbs and a firing pin fall around .220.
