TUNG OIL

shortround said:
Ted ,

Since I am using a laminate ,is there something other than TO that I should be using to finish this stock?
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Shortround,

Tung Oil will work fine. It just takes a bit longer to cure hard than some of the finishes with driers in them.

I would not be afraid to use it. Just be sure you put a very little amount on at a time.

Put a few drops in your palm, rub your hands together and then rub it all over the stock until your hands start to skid on the stock instead of slide. You will have to do this a several times to get the stock completely covered. Then set it aside for a few days to dry.

Give it a try. You'll figure it out pretty quick. :)

Ted
 
I have had good success finishing laminated stocks with wipe-on or paste varnish--2 or 3 thin coats seems to give a very duable finish with a lot less work than a proper oil finish.


44Bore
 
shortround said:
Can someone else pipe in here . I have a Boyds laminate that I am about to dip in Tung Oil and as you may know here in Newfoundland we are not known for our endless sunny dry weather. It does tend to get damp,a little. I was hoping that using the oil method would give me a good waterproof finish !!!
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a tough finish for a laminate is the S-1 sealer, you can get it from a marine store. It is a 2-part epoxy that is thinned down. you paint it on and keep adding it as it soaks in. then finish coat it with Rust-oleum clear no-skid paint and you are good to go
 
rgv said:
you paint it on and keep adding it as it soaks in.
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rgv: that's the part that worries me, the soaking in . in an above responce someone mentioned that you don't get laminates to "SOAK IN" because of the resin's in the laminating process . How will this work with the marine product you mentioned?
 
shortround said:
rgv said:
you paint it on and keep adding it as it soaks in.
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rgv: that's the part that worries me, the soaking in . in an above responce someone mentioned that you don't get laminates to "SOAK IN" because of the resin's in the laminating process . How will this work with the marine product you mentioned?
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well I just did a boyds laminate, and the end grain inside the action inletting, as well as the pistol grip, forend tip, etc, all took a lot of re-application before it would not soak in more epoxy. Even the sides soaked in quite a bit, though obviously the glue lines did not.

you have to figure that if it won't absorb epoxy, then it won't absorb water, and those end-grain areas will absorb water like a sponge if they are not sealed permanently.
 
Now that I kow what I'm using I need just one more piece of info . Do I refinish the stock before or after I do the bedding of the action ?

I know I asked this before but I dd a search and couldn't find the thread !!!!!
 
That is exactly how I do it, even as many as 25 coats over a period of a year. Learned that from a pro stock maker, but it still will not be waterproof. Water resistant yes, but prolonged exposure to rain or snow and you will get water stains under the finish. Cured Tung Oil is porous to water.
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I see. I am trying out a product from Bits of Pieces called Schaftol.I tried a sample and it seems to be real nice. Tung oil is really pretty, but like Ted said, it takes at least 1 week for each coat to dry, and even if you do only 12 coats that puts you at 3 months! A fellow CGN member sells the product, you may want to give it a try. His handle is "bitsofpieces"
 
Pure non polymerized tung oil is very slow to dry. But like linseed oil it is available in altered and other than pure forms which are faster drying or do not require so many coats. Some products contain polyurethane or varnish (yuck) and some contain thinners or drying agents. I have also heard (but not yet tried) that it is available in a polymerized (oxidized) version that is quicker drying. I guess this is similar to genuine boiled linseed oil as opposed to raw linseed oil. I have read that such a product is available at Lee Valley Tools. It is the Sutherland Welles brand and is fairly expensive. (Over $30 for a quart.) This is what I will be using on my next project for the top coats at least. First coat or coats will still be raw linseed oil mixed 2 parts oil to one part turpentine. Although you can also use this polymerized tung oil thinned with turpentine for the initial coat. The reason the first coat is thinned is so that it will penetrate more deeply. There's lots of info in books and on the internet on this subject. It appears that there are many ways to skin a cat but even more ways to finish a gunstock! I include this link with some info on the subject. http://www.sutherlandwelles.com
 
When I first started finishing stocks, I used tung Oil. It gave a beautiful finish if allowed to dry between coats but, as Ted said, it isn't waterproof.

I now use a process that involves a mix of Interlux Original marine spar varnish(with UV filters), Deftoil Marine Teakwood Penetrating Oil and paint thinner. To seal I soak for up to 12 hours then dry for a month. I then fill and finish with the same solution.

The finish is low gloss and is as waterproof as anything short of a bowling pin finish can be.
 
Mauser98 , That sounds interesting , how doees it stand up to the day to day bump and scrape of the bush. Where is this stuff available and what isthe cost of using this.
 
shortround said:
Mauser98 , That sounds interesting , how doees it stand up to the day to day bump and scrape of the bush. Where is this stuff available and what isthe cost of using this.
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It stands up as well as an oiled stock. If necesary, it can be repaired by wet sanding the wound with 400-600 wet paper and some of the mix.

IIRC, the varnish was about $20, the Deftoil was about $18.00 and the paint thinner was cheap. Be prepared to sacrifice the remainder of the varnish if you keep it very long - it will harden in the can.

I doubt the brand of marine spar varnish is important. Just buy a good quality phenolic resin marine varnish(apparently there are other types of varnish) and make sure it contains ultra-violet(UV) inhibitors(or the finish will fade)

The next time I use this method, I'll be using 25% varnish, 25% Deftoil and 50% thinner. It should penetrate better. I usually toss in a piece of walnut from the same blank then later cut it in half to get an idea of penetration. So far I'm getting about 1/8" of the sides and 1/4" on end grain.

Above all, take your time. If you can soak longer, do it. Don't rush the drying.

Here's a thread in which I described my method.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/viewtopic.php?t=91330&highlight=
 
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