Tung Oil

ninepointer

ninepointer

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
45   0   0
Location
Central Ontario
I have seen several posts recommending tung oil to refinish a gunstock. In my case I want to do my Model 94.

1) What is the correct way to prep the stock?
2) What is the correct way to apply tung oil?

Ninepointer
 
1) Remove the old/existing finish.
2) Apply stain first then the oil(don't slather it on. A little at a time.) with a clean, lint free cloth. Rub in with another clean lint free cloth. Let dry for 24 hours and repeat for about six days or so. The trick is to get the oil warm with friction. The more oil and rubbing, the nicer the finish.
Be advised that once tung oil is on there's no going back. The stain can be removed with light sanding, but not the tung oil. It soaks into the wood about 1/4" or so and gives a finish that's nearly impervious to water.
 
Thanks:) . I did the search and found the info. However, I didn't see any other mention of staining the stock first. Is staining necessary or is it a matter of preference? I don't mind if the stock is a bit light in colour.

Ninepointer
 
No, its walnut right. Also I would use a chemical stripper(outside) and then light sand (not in the checkering) then apply true oil , if you have not gotten the tung oil. Also have had good results with walmart rub on poly, excellent results.
Frank
 
Yes, its uncheckered walnut. Tell me about the tru oil and rub on poly, what kind of finishes do they create?
M9401.jpg
 
Just looking at the stock, it looks like it had an oil finish on it. In this case, and your spouse did not hear of it from this site:) , the dish washer works wonders for some , on military stocks, there is a post on this somewhwere.
Anyway it will get rid of all the dark stained areas, and leave a freash looking piece of wood. Help me out folks that have used this method.
Anyway the poly is just applied with a rag, and can be buffed dry, very easy. Several coats can be used to make it look great. It has great penetration, and is more clear than true oil, so the grain just comes right out. Hope this helps. Oh you can sand lightly between coats. Oh remove all metal before you start, can raise the grain where dents are with a damp cloth and hot iron.
Frank
 
Last edited:
Dishwasher, hmmmmm.....

Actually, there used to be some sort of laquer coating (looked factory) on the stock, but it was worn off in most places (the gun was made in '49). So I lightly rubbed off the rest of the laquer with steel wool and polished the stock with some carnauba wax to make it look half decent. Now its time for a proper finish.
 
That wax may be a pain, and the washer trick may be the way to go onn that one, nice gun man for its age:cool: got a good sight on it to:) And get some 44-40 or Oxpho cold blue , buff the crap out of it when you apply with fine steel wool, metal warm. Will come up nice
Frank
 
Last edited:
My experience is that a good tung oil finish (many very thin coats applied over an extended perion of time) gives you a much nicer looking stock than either Tru oil or wipe on poly, especialy on walnut. It could be that I just take more time and care with the tung oil. Wipe on poly is very easy to apply, and gives a nice hard finish. Just follow the directions on the can. I've used it for laminated stocks because it does not darken up the wood at all like the oils will. The tru oil is also fairly quick and easy to use, and usually requires only 3 to 5 coats. Make sure to apply very thinly to avoid runs, and leave it to dry completely fully between coats or it will take eons to cure properly...same is true for the tung oil.
 
Put about a dozen coats of tung oil on my 602, buffed with 0000 steel wool between coats. First coat was 50% varsol to help it soak into the wood. It was very light at first but seems to have darkened a little with age. I used circa 1856 brand from Revy now Rona I like it. Very shiny yet not slippery when wet, much deeper finish than a varnish good winter blahs project. Good luck.
 
Thanks Grouseman, looks good, that's the look I was going for on my Model 94. I've got a few projects to finish around the house first, but expect to start "rubbing" in late April.
 
tounge oil hah

My buddy gave me a recipe for use with "tounge" oil
1/3 tung oil
1/3 polyurethane
1/3 paint thinner

i am trying it currently on my HR
I will let you know how it goes

Great pics and good work there is nothing like a nicely finished wood stock
 
Would it be a good idea to use 'wipe-on poly' after the tung oil treatment, for a more durable, moisture resistant finish ? Also, should any special treatment be done to the surface under barrel and receiver ? It can get wet too.
 
Would it be a good idea to use 'wipe-on poly' after the tung oil treatment, for a more durable, moisture resistant finish ? Also, should any special treatment be done to the surface under barrel and receiver ? It can get wet too.
Click to expand...
I would use one or the other , but they many work together. As far as the inside surfaces , a coat or 2 will be fine.
If you do mess up your attempt , no worries fine steel wool , and a light coat will work great.
Something that has not been covered is room temp, and finish temp.
I like going at this with 80/85 deg F, and have the finish in a warm place over night to get it at a nice temp for starting. Tung oil is very light and not as critical if I remember correctly but the poly will get heavy if cool.
Frank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom