I've already polished the hammer strut and trigger bow and that made a huge difference. I'm planning on ordering a Wilson Combat sear and spring kit. I'm wondering if adding an aftermarket hammer to it as well will make that much of a difference?
Tweeking a norc 1911 trigger
- Thread starter Hawkeye
- Start date
What's your goal with the trigger? Just a cleaner break, smoother pull, or a specific pull weight? Polishing the hammer strut wouldn't affect the trigger pull in any noticeable way really. If you felt any difference it would have been from the bow. 1911 triggers are a tricky pickle. Unfortunately just throwing random fire control parts with no specific goal at the problem won't work out very well. It takes a detailed understanding of how every part moves, and works with one another. That will take time, but it's not impossible. I spent countless hours reading up on trigger work and the do's and don'ts, and I still had a very difficult time getting it all right the first time I tried.
If your looking to change the look of the hammer and whatnot, then you will need a new sear. The 2 parts should be made by the same manufacture in order to maintain the same surface hardness. If your hammer is harder than your sear, it will start to round it off. They come oversized, meaning they will have to be fit to the pistol, and the sear and hammer geometry must be cut to perfectly mate together. That involves cutting your sear nose and hammer hook heights to proper dimensions. If this step is skipped, than ordering those new parts was just a waste of money. There is a good chance that the disconnector would need to be replaced in order to function with the new hammer and sear, as well as be properly fit and polished. Then comes the trigger, you can use a stock trigger, but it's heavy, non adjustable and the bow will not be square. Aftermarket trigger and bow would be recommended. But like previously, it would have to be cut and fit to the pistol. As well as cleaning and polishing the trigger tracks. The sear spring can be left stock, and polish contact surfaces. It can be tweaked to adjust pull weight. All of these steps require specialized tools.
I'll tell you out of my own experience, I tried to do most of that work without the proper research and tools the first go around, and had to end up redoing everything. Invested in the jigs, and stones and time. And I ended up with an incredible trigger pull. It was worth the investment because I ended up doing several more triggers on friends and families 1911's. If this is your only one, take it to a smith. Believe me.
If your looking to change the look of the hammer and whatnot, then you will need a new sear. The 2 parts should be made by the same manufacture in order to maintain the same surface hardness. If your hammer is harder than your sear, it will start to round it off. They come oversized, meaning they will have to be fit to the pistol, and the sear and hammer geometry must be cut to perfectly mate together. That involves cutting your sear nose and hammer hook heights to proper dimensions. If this step is skipped, than ordering those new parts was just a waste of money. There is a good chance that the disconnector would need to be replaced in order to function with the new hammer and sear, as well as be properly fit and polished. Then comes the trigger, you can use a stock trigger, but it's heavy, non adjustable and the bow will not be square. Aftermarket trigger and bow would be recommended. But like previously, it would have to be cut and fit to the pistol. As well as cleaning and polishing the trigger tracks. The sear spring can be left stock, and polish contact surfaces. It can be tweaked to adjust pull weight. All of these steps require specialized tools.
I'll tell you out of my own experience, I tried to do most of that work without the proper research and tools the first go around, and had to end up redoing everything. Invested in the jigs, and stones and time. And I ended up with an incredible trigger pull. It was worth the investment because I ended up doing several more triggers on friends and families 1911's. If this is your only one, take it to a smith. Believe me.
Thanks for the insight. My goal is to minimize or even better remove the creep in the trigger pull. Mostly though I'm just bored and like to tinker with what ever I can. I've been stuck at home for the last couple months and I'm running out of things to do.
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Norinco had put out improved models for 1911 frequently, 6 weeks ago, i had brought a new 1911 45acp (blue gun) from wa with high profile rear sight and optical front sight,i had tuneup the power spring and i make the trigger pull goes to round 4lb,to compare to my higher end 1911 pistol, the performance was totally acceptable ,the only thing i am thinking of is to find a adjustable trigger to shorten the length of pull.2 weeks ago because of the promotion sale of sfrc, i brought another norinco latest enhanced model in chrome at a much lower prices,to my delight , the trigger pull length was minimized and have clean break ,also the mag entrance had been improved.it was a complete competition ready gun. I am now thinking to kick away the blue gun and buy another chrome gun.
For the removal of creep, the best bet would be to stone the sear nose and bring down the hammer hook hight. You can get a jig to do this but that in itself with the stones would be the price of a smith stoning them. If it's somthing you feel you can tackle, it's a fun project and rewarding too. Just have to make sure to read up on how to properly do it.
With all due respect ... if you have to ask these questions ... you should NOT be "dicking" with the hammer/sear/disconnector system! Polishing the HAMMER STRUT???? Have you ever seen a 1911 go "FULL AUTO"? NOT something you want to happen!!!!
Errr, how would polishing the hammer strut make the firearm "go FULL AUTO"?
