Two questions rolled into one thread; Alexander Henry fore ends and No.1 neck sizing

Ardent

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I've had a Ruger No.1S with a Alexander Henry fore end, but the purpose of the hook and the styling escaped me. I appeal to those wiser than I.

Also, in my few No.1's I've gone through, never tried neck sizing only, is this problematic with the lack of a bolt to push the case home?

Cheers ;)
 
Alex Henry fore-ends

Hey Angus. That 16 is a hun killer! I took my first double on huns this year with it :)

As for the fore-end, good question! I've wondered that myself when toting around my 375H&H #1-S. Hopefully someone will know.

As for neck sizing, on my 270 neck sizing was not enough, I would have to push the case into place with my thumb to get the block to move. I started partially resizing (as per the Nosler manual) and things worked fine. In my 22-250 just neck sizing seems to be okay, the cartridge slides in easily to the point that the block will seat it firmly.

Cheers,

Ian
 
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Have a circa 1912 Commercial Alex. Henry Martini rifle that has this forearm.....Ruger has copied it quite closely.....Would guess it might be Alex Henrys trademark on his singleshot rifles.....

Neck sizeing for my two Rugers works good.......


hs4570....your mileage may vary
 
Has anyone else ever got a finger in that cut in the Ruger A. Henry forend on a heavy recoiling rifle? I did twice on a .416 Rigby and oh man does that sting! It cut me pretty good. I have had them on some big thumper #1s too including a .460 Wby. and a .500 Nitro, it never got me again. When I built my recent .500 Buhmiller on a #1, I made sure it had the heavy beavertail forend with no A. Henry cut out. That thing can really hurt you if you get a finger close to it in a heavy recoiler. I wish it were not cut. Oneday I will cut the section of the cut off and put a nice dark forend tip on one. I think that would look better as well as be more functional. Anyone done this?
 
That forend is just another style, similar to the Snauble(Sp?), rosewood, or even pewter(as on some Sharps), you either like it or you don't, never thought about the recoil problem, mine has never bit me.
 
Pudelpointer said:
Hey Angus. That 16 is a hun killer! I took my first double on huns this year with it :)

As for the fore-end, good question! I've wondered that myself when toting around my 375H&H #1-S. Hopefully someone will know.

As for neck sizing, on my 270 neck sizing was not enough, I would have to push the case into place with my thumb to get the block to move. I started partially resizing (as per the Nosler manual) and things worked fine. In my 22-250 just neck sizing seems to be okay, the cartridge slides in easily to the point that the block will seat it firmly.

Cheers,

Ian

Great to hear Ian, glad the old Trojan's in its native domain. :D

Casull said:
Has anyone else ever got a finger in that cut in the Ruger A. Henry forend on a heavy recoiling rifle? I did twice on a .416 Rigby and oh man does that sting! It cut me pretty good. I have had them on some big thumper #1s too including a .460 Wby. and a .500 Nitro, it never got me again. When I built my recent .500 Buhmiller on a #1, I made sure it had the heavy beavertail forend with no A. Henry cut out. That thing can really hurt you if you get a finger close to it in a heavy recoiler. I wish it were not cut. Oneday I will cut the section of the cut off and put a nice dark forend tip on one. I think that would look better as well as be more functional. Anyone done this?

Never had it, biggest #1 I've had is a 7mm Mag, tame compared to those, but I could easily see how this would happen now in reflection...
 
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