Type 97 Sight Rail (Solid type) range report

0 = single shot for rifle grenade launching
1 = normal semi auto
2 = adverse conditions semi auto (ie. very dirty, short stroking, etc...)

Take the gas plug out and look at the holes in it, the little one is the 1 setting, the big one is the 2 setting, lets much more gas into the piston cylinder.
 
Just to make things interesting on the sight rail front, I'm going to try the cheap Airsoft rail and see how it works. I'm only using it for a red dot, so I think I'll chop it in half and just keep the back part.
http://sh op.ehobbyasia.com/real-sword-type-97-picatinny-mount-base.html
 
Took the sight rail off my t97 yesterday , after trying 2 scopes and 2 sets of rings (2-7x33 and 1-4x28 scopes/ med and low height mounts), still not able to hold zero after 60-100 rounds (first 50 or so are good, groups are tight). Impact point will rise or down by up to 4 inches after. After I pulled the scope off, I noticed the last screw on the rail came loose, re tight, then it came loose again after 50 rounds, if you tight it down too hard, it will damage the bottom edge of the sight rail (aluminum is too soft? I have picture of it, pm me if you want to see it).

Iron sight is going to be my option until someone comes up with a better railing system, 2 inches groups at 25, and 4-6 at 50 meters are good enough for me using iron sight.

The SKS front sight tool is a bit too narrow for t97, I grind some metal off the inter wall (the side with the screw thread), it fits my t97 nicely now, pushed my front sight a bit to the right as the impact point was about 1 inch to the right of the bulls eye. Front opposite / rear same rule! :)

TRaTSeRiF said:
Ok range test = fail. Can't hold zero. Either gotta use a shorty or a dot, mounted as far back as you can comfortably look. The previous setup with rings was fine, held 0 on 3 range sessions, but the way pictured, its mounted too far forward and the naysayers were absolutely correct. My SKS sight adjustment tool is a little too narrow to fit, so temporarily, I just have to do Kentucky windage with the irons until I dot it.
Click to expand...
 
petermoo999 said:
Took the sight rail off my t97 yesterday , after trying 2 scopes and 2 sets of rings (2-7x33 and 1-4x28 scopes/ med and low height mounts), still not able to hold zero after 60-100 rounds (first 50 or so are good, groups are tight). Impact point will rise or down by up to 4 inches after. After I pulled the scope off, I noticed the last screw on the rail came loose, re tight, then it came loose again after 50 rounds, if you tight it down too hard, it will damage the bottom edge of the sight rail (aluminum is too soft? I have picture of it, pm me if you want to see it).

Iron sight is going to be my option until someone comes up with a better railing system, 2 inches groups at 25, and 4-6 at 50 meters are good enough for me using iron sight.

The SKS front sight tool is a bit too narrow for t97, I grind some metal off the inter wall (the side with the screw thread), it fits my t97 nicely now, pushed my front sight a bit to the right as the impact point was about 1 inch to the right of the bulls eye. Front opposite / rear same rule! :)
Click to expand...

you try loctite on the screws?
 
The rails with the screws that just clamp on don't seem like a good solution to me. I think that the mount needs to grip the side slots (not sure what to call them) on the factory rail to really hold zero. I dedicated quick detachable base that clamps the rifles rail with integrated rings to keep the total height down strikes me as a better approch.
 
Thought about that as well, but if I use loctite on it, it will be super tough to remove the screw/mount so the carrying handle can be removed for cleaning the inside parts of the gun (I do clean my guns after every range trip). Personally I think the aftermarket railing we are using is meant/designed for air soft, the extra 2/3 screws just to help to lock down the floating rail. However the true railing system for the t97 is the quick release ones we have seen on the qbz95.

lil_juiced_coupe said:
you try loctite on the screws?
Click to expand...
 
A small dose of loctite will make the screws easy to remove but won't back off.. I just used it to tighten the rail for a competition and then it was easy enough to take off, but they didn't come loose. All in all, it's a good solution.

Clarification: Just a small dot near the tip of each screw is more than enough to hold it from vibrating loose without making it difficult to remove. Don't drench the tip in the blue or you WILL have problems removing it.
 
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A number of reports of problems with the Canam sold (4 screw) rail.
Try the Real Sword rail for less than $20 (Mine is solid and holding zero after 180 rounds or so).
Or SFRC has the Clob-designed see-through rail for $100.

I can't see needing to remove the carry handle more than once a year or so - all of the important guts that you want to clean slide out of the receiver (bolt,carrier,recoil spring,gas system).
I then clean the bore/barrel and hit the trigger assembly with compressed air and G79.
 
drifter dave said:
A number of reports of problems with the Canam sold (4 screw) rail.
Try the Real Sword rail for less than $20 (Mine is solid and holding zero after 180 rounds or so).
Or SFRC has the Clob-designed see-through rail for $100.

I can't see needing to remove the carry handle more than once a year or so - all of the important guts that you want to clean slide out of the receiver (bolt,carrier,recoil spring,gas system).
I then clean the bore/barrel and hit the trigger assembly with compressed air and G79.
Click to expand...

So can you remove the piston/gas regulator without removing the scope? I was able to move the carry handle back a bit, enough to turn the gas regulator to the removal position but couldn't seem to get the regulator off and get to the piston. Anyone successfully do this yet?
 
So can you remove the piston/gas regulator without removing the scope? I was able to move the carry handle back a bit, enough to turn the gas regulator to the removal position but couldn't seem to get the regulator off and get to the piston. Anyone successfully do this yet?
Click to expand...

Yes. Just slide the upper cover/carry handle back about a cm, this gives clearance to push the gas selector to the horizontal position. The gas system then comes out the front. Tootall will have a vid up soon that shows me doing this.

After running some rounds though it gets a little gummed up - will need a tap or two for the parts to come out.
 
I cleaned mine last night without removing the carry handle. Had to pull back on the carry handle a bit to remove gas regulator and pushed the piston and spring out from behind using a cleaning rod. It was quite simple and I think that that is how I will be cleaning it from now on so as to not loose zero on the red dot.
 
drifter dave said:
Yes. Just slide the upper cover/carry handle back about a cm, this gives clearance to push the gas selector to the horizontal position. The gas system then comes out the front. Tootall will have a vid up soon that shows me doing this.

After running some rounds though it gets a little gummed up - will need a tap or two for the parts to come out.
Click to expand...

That's the way i cleaned mine. No need to remove the optic.
 
New optic on my baby and probably here to stay. Range test on Wednesday...
AXiH2Nc.jpg
 
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I'm almost tempted, but I'd probably use 2 thick rings and one of them mounted as far back as possible. Just spent a few bucks on the TRS-25, so I won't be spending more on optics but had I know what I know now, I probably would have picked up the PU 3.5x22
 
Anyone check to see if the front sight on these is the same threading as SKS/AK front sights? NEA makes a fiber optic front sight in that thread pitch.
 
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