Uberti 1858 new army q's

S

Smcx

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
7   0   0
Location
Here and there
Hey all. Looking for some advice on shooting a new uberti new model army. 1st, what caps should I buy. Second, what powder should I buy lol. I have lubed felt wads and hornady .454 balls. I also bought an inline capper that fits #11 caps (was that an oops?). Any other tips appreciated :)

Thx!
 
The best-fitting caps are Remington #10 for both Pietta and Uberti revolvers. CCI #10 don't work as well, and CCI #11 are loose.

FFFg black powder is what you need. (3F) Goex

A capper won't fit between the cap clearance openings on the Remington cylinder, unfortunately.

.454 balls are supposed to be correct, but take considerably more force to load than .451 balls, which seem to work just fine.

Grease your base pin with NATURAL lubricant, not petroleum-based lubricant, which simply makes fouling worse.
(Melt together a mixture of Beeswax, Neatsfoot Oil, and Crisco to a consistency which is solid but soft.)

I get 24 shots or more without binding, before cleaning.

Each cylinder reload, pull the cylinder (easy) and wipe off the cylinder and frame and apply more lubricant to the base pin and rear of the cylinder. It saves wear and tear on the gun.

For plenty of detailed advice and insights on black powder revolvers, check out Duelist1954 on You-Tube.
 
Last edited:
Great thx. Dowel push rod for the caps, or is that going overboard safety wise?

Also, the gun is uncoated steel right now (not stainless). Can I leave it that way or should I put some sort of finish on it.
 
I use corn meal as a filler between the powder and ball. If the gun is a Colt replica, I would stick with relatively light charges of 3 F and I am guessing around 25 grains. When I had a .36 caliber Colt replica, I think I put in 25 or 30 grains which crushed the key which locks the barrel in place. Even though it might look strong, there is a groove machined in the key to accomodate the screw head which keeps it from falling out when you remove the barrel. Final thought that comes to mind is that if the cylinder is stuck and you cannot get the barrel off in the case of a Colt, put the gun muzzle down in a bucket of warm water up to about the trigger or a bit more. The water will soften the fouling which is jamming the cylinder pin. One other final thought is that for Colt replicas, keep a screw driver with you because sooner or later you will have a cap fall down in the space for the hand, and jam the gun. With both Colt and Remington replicas, don't till the muzzle back after firing and as you #### the gun for the next shot because the cap or cap fragments can fall into the hand recess.
I use #11 caps and pinch them before use, to get a snug fit. #10 caps are too common around here. Also while on the subject of caps, the real cause of chain fires is if a cap falls off of a loaded chamber before you fire the chamber under the hammer, the flash from the nipple can set off the chamber with no cap
I am sure you are going to enjoy shooting the gun

cheers mooncoon
 
Lonesome Donkey said:
The best-fitting caps are Remington #10 for both Pietta and Uberti revolvers. CCI #10 don't work as well, and CCI #11 are loose.

A capper won't fit between the cap clearance openings on the Remington cylinder, unfortunately.
Click to expand...

My inline cappers work just fine on my Pietta and Uberti .44 Remingtons.
 
Something like that kit would be perfect for someone to practice engraving on along with fitting grips and checkering. In the end ,to finish it you could try your hand at blueing or plating it.
It sounds like a perfect practice piece for a beginning gunsmith to hone his skills on.
I looked at Wolverine's site but could not find anything similar to what you described.
 
SMCX:
For my Uberti I use either #10 or 11. I find the Remington caps work the best. A lot of the other brands I have to strike twice. Yes, I push them on properly. 3F powder of course. I use about 20grains.

I always load with a stand/press. That way I can make sure everything is right.

The good thing about the .454 balls is that they shave a nice ring off when you load them into the cylinder.

Oh, and before anyone leads you astray, the Remington cap and ball is far superior to the colt.

Kevin
 
Smcx said:
Great thx. Dowel push rod for the caps, or is that going overboard safety wise?

Also, the gun is uncoated steel right now (not stainless). Can I leave it that way or should I put some sort of finish on it.
Click to expand...

The dowel probably helps to ensure ignition.

#11 CCI caps will work fine if you pinch them a bit, as had been said.

Getting it blued would be the best, but I am curious why it is unfinished steel. (A kit?)

The Italian flask spouts drop about 28 grains of FFFG. This is the best load, though they will take more.
More is pointless. Less is boring. The Remingtons are strong compared to the Colts.

.451 balls fit tightly in my chambers, and with either felt wads or grease over the chambers, I have never had any problems in my Pietta or an old Euroarms from the 70s. No need for a separate press.

If you have access to a supply of PURE soft lead, you should cast your own balls. It's cheap and easy and fun, and you don't have to rely on dealers to keep your size of balls in stock. A Lee or Lyman ball mold works well. The iron Lyman mold will last forever. I bought mine in 1972. It still looks new.

Good sources of soft lead are old roof jacks stripped off when houses get a new roof. There is a lot of impurities in them from being exposed to weather, which you scoop out of the pot when melted, but you can get about 150 or more .44 round balls out of one. New roof jacks may be made of some other metal or plastic.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom