Uberti front post question . Dies? Range report!

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Brianma65

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So , I got my very first handgun,its a Uberti el patron in .45 LC. I am really excited to be taking her to the range this weekend:)... My question regarding the front post is, as I bring the gun up to shoot, it points naturally so that the front post looks kinda high. If I aim down the grouve that runs the entire length of the frame , I'm looking at the middle of the post. Should I be just looking at the top of the post? Will I need to file the top post down? Thanks... Oh , did I mention it's my first , and I'm a newb with firearms in general.
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beauty you got there. Most single actions western guns shoot low. The front sight Is too high. Back in the day it was easier to take some off the front sight than to add. See more of the front sight. Grinding it down will make the gun worth less. It also depends on your loads. Plus p ammo I would not recommend in the replica The grips are small. Get around that is moderate and have fun. They were never made as bulls eye shooting guns don't take this wrong I have a lot of Ubert's and pietas in single action They are my favorite guns. Enjoy your new gun.
 
I find it points so easy , I just point it at something ,without aiming,and when I check ,it is right on the money. If that makes any sense?. I guess I'll find out this weekend.
 
Only the rear of the slot along the top of the receiver frame is the sighting key. Ignore the rest of the slot in front. You are not supposed to line the slot up along it's whole length.

Sighting the gun is the same as any other. The front blade rests in the rear notch with the top of the blade lined up with the upper corners of the notch.

The guns in .45Colt should shoot fairly close but hopefully a touch low. Part of the idea is that fixed sights are actually adjustable. It's just that it requires the use of a metal file to adjust them and the adjustments only work in one direction. So you want to be sure of what loads you want to use and the method you'll use for holding the gun while shooting.

The SAA guns seem to beg to be shot one handed in the classic movie cowboy method. But you'll find that if you shoot two handed with a strong support hand grip that the gun shoots to a different POI then it would if you shot one handed or two handed where the second hand is perched there mostly for cocking the hammer.

One other thing to consider is that unless you have very small hands these guns are intended to be held low enough on the grips that the web of your hand is at the bottom of the curve of the neck. Don't be tempted to hold really high or you'll find like a few of us have that the gun want's to shoot strongly to the left. With normal to larger hands the proper hold will see your pinky looking for a place to sit. And the best place in under the butt end of the grips.

As you come to grips with the bullet weight and powder charge you're going to use you can then consider working the front blade shorter with a file until the gun is shooting right on your POA. But sneak up on this over a number of sessions and a few hundred rounds. You CAN go back and start over but this involves a new front sight blade being pressed into the notch. Something best done by a gunsmith. So go slow and make the first front blade your ONLY front blade.

And if you don't reload already the cost of .45Colt ammo will sure encourage you to start.... :d
 
BCRider said:
Only the rear of the slot along the top of the receiver frame is the sighting key. Ignore the rest of the slot in front. You are not supposed to line the slot up along it's whole length.

Sighting the gun is the same as any other. The front blade rests in the rear notch with the top of the blade lined up with the upper corners of the notch.

The guns in .45Colt should shoot fairly close but hopefully a touch low. Part of the idea is that fixed sights are actually adjustable. It's just that it requires the use of a metal file to adjust them and the adjustments only work in one direction. So you want to be sure of what loads you want to use and the method you'll use for holding the gun while shooting.

The SAA guns seem to beg to be shot one handed in the classic movie cowboy method. But you'll find that if you shoot two handed with a strong support hand grip that the gun shoots to a different POI then it would if you shot one handed or two handed where the second hand is perched there mostly for cocking the hammer.

One other thing to consider is that unless you have very small hands these guns are intended to be held low enough on the grips that the web of your hand is at the bottom of the curve of the neck. Don't be tempted to hold really high or you'll find like a few of us have that the gun want's to shoot strongly to the left. With normal to larger hands the proper hold will see your pinky looking for a place to sit. And the best place in under the butt end of the grips.

As you come to grips with the bullet weight and powder charge you're going to use you can then consider working the front blade shorter with a file until the gun is shooting right on your POA. But sneak up on this over a number of sessions and a few hundred rounds. You CAN go back and start over but this involves a new front sight blade being pressed into the notch. Something best done by a gunsmith. So go slow and make the first front blade your ONLY front blade.

And if you don't reload already the cost of .45Colt ammo will sure encourage you to start.... :d
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From handling the gun all day, I'm really comfortable, holding it one handed. My pinkie goes naturally ,to the bottom of the butt. And I've just started reloading, .223 so far ,but I do plan on loading for the .45LC. ( just paid $ 50 for 50 rnds of rem.). Could you elaborate on why its so important ,not to pull the trigger from half ####, as you mentioned in another thread? Thanks for the reply.
 
Congrats on the new gun, the SAA's are a lot of fun up on the range but it has been my experience that they are actually not that easy to shoot accurately. The recoil on these guns is fairly substantial, if you are not used to a powerful handgun you have to get used to the recoil without developing a flinch reflex.
Be sure to post a range report (with pictures)on your new gun.
 
I was going to order components and was wondering if the hornady projectiles are any good? Any body have any preference of powder and primers? Anything I should avoid? Thanks
 
Brianma65 said:
....Could you elaborate on why its so important ,not to pull the trigger from half ####, as you mentioned in another thread? Thanks for the reply.
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With the original Colt action the cylinder stop is called the "bolt". The bolt has a sprung finger that rides on a small rounded cam on the side of the hammer. When you half #### the hammer it draws the bolt down so you can spin the cylinder. If you pull the hammer back only a little to let the trigger be pulled and then let the hammer fall from this half #### position the cylinder isn't indexed to the next spot and the bolt will end up riding on the side of the cylinder. And then when you #### the hammer the next time the hand indexes the cylinder but the bolt is not pulled down because you didn't reset the action correctly. And that ends up leaving a drag line on the cylinder. And THAT, my friend, is the mark of a proper Colt SA newb.... :d So no actual functional harm is done to the gun other than a light scuff line. But among the SA revolver clan it's a mark of shame, ridicule and finger pointing over a beer.

$50 for 50? b: I KNEW there was a reason I reload my own! ! ! ! The big bore rounds like this even now with the higher cost of primers, bullets and powders is still only around 25 to 27 cents a round for the consumables. You really need to start shopping for brass and dies! ! ! !
 
Brianma65 said:
I was going to order components and was wondering if the hornady projectiles are any good? Any body have any preference of powder and primers? Anything I should avoid? Thanks
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Hornady are excellent but will be much more expensive than cast. Not sure who supplies cast or copper-plated (such as Berry's) out there but they will be worth looking into. With a "cowboy action" revolver like yours you won't be looking to push velocities so some medium-soft lead 250 gr. would be just the thing. Lots of powders available for .45 LC; it will largely depend on what you can get these days.
 
Brianma65 said:
I was going to order components and was wondering if the hornady projectiles are any good? Any body have any preference of powder and primers? Anything I should avoid? Thanks
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For cowboy action shooting we must use cast bullets. But for what you're doing anything will work. Hornady is fine obviously but they will be expensive and you just don't need that level of bullet. If you can find some Berrys plated bullets those would work fine. Anything that works in a .45 ACP will work in your .45Colt loads. On top of that the more stubby RNFP bullets that show up as cast bullets are fine too.

No hot "Ruger only" loads for this gun. Stick to the low pressure SAMMI spec loads with pressures listed at or below 13,000. And for basic target shooting you don't need to go even that high. Mid power loads will still feel like a lot of fun unless it turns out that you're a Magnum junkie.
 
I just ordered a set of rcbs dies and a shell holder . Budget has primers and bullits. There are at least 20 different kinds of powder listed in my hornady manual... I can't find one of them anywhere. Would cfe pistol work?
 
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I ordered a set of .45 colt dies from Brownell , today. Did I order the right see? In my hornady manual there are a few different weight bullets ,with a diameter of .452, And one with a diameter of .454. Will my dies work with both.
 
Yes it will. Although .454 size might be a stretch. I'd tend to stick to 452 for jacketed or plated and .453 to 454 for cast with the accent on .453.

The difference of a whole range of only .002 is minor so the dies are fine with any option. If I have my druthers I tend to seat and crimp into the cannelure grooves with one die doing both at the same time on cast bullets or those rare jacketed that have a groove. For jacketed and plated I prefer to seat without crimping and then crimp as an additional step.
 
BCRider said:
Yes it will. Although .454 size might be a stretch. I'd tend to stick to 452 for jacketed or plated and .453 to 454 for cast with the accent on .453.

The difference of a whole range of only .002 is minor so the dies are fine with any option. If I have my druthers I tend to seat and crimp into the cannelure grooves with one die doing both at the same time on cast bullets or those rare jacketed that have a groove. For jacketed and plated I prefer to seat without crimping and then crimp as an additional step.
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Thanks,any opinion on the CFE pistol ,powder?
 
I've used both CFE pistol on my Uberti in 45LC and Titegroup. For bullets, I ordered some cast from the Bullet Barn (250gr RN) and some Berry's plated from Higginson (250gr FP). I also use my 230gr FMJs that I have for the 1911s. They all shoot fine in both the pistol and the Rossi92 rifle.
The dies you ordered are the correct ones.

I found both CFE pistol and Titegroup work well in both guns. My recipes, FWIW, is
Titegroup: 5.6gr @1.600" COAL give me around 930fps with the 250gr projectiles.
CFE Pistol: 8.6gr @1.600" COAL gives me around 980-ish fps with the 250gr projectiles.

All velocities are out of the 7.5" Uberti. Out of the Rossi, they'll be a little faster.
 
Brianma65 said:
I do have one more question for now. I've read something about lead projectiles ,leading the barrel. Should I be aware of anything?
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Don't drive them at FMJ speeds. The higher pressures involved in that can lead to leading issues. Keep the pressure low and the speeds will by default be slower.

Plated bullets are more resistant to this, and FMJs are immune. Cast is where the issue sometimes arises.

The recipes I wrote about above are around 10,800 CUP for the Titegroup and around 10,400 PSI for the CFE Pistol - both safely within the non-leading pressure zones.
 
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