Uberti Remington Pattern Revovler

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kevinasch

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Hi. I am having problems with my Uberti cap and ball revolver. It is 44cal. It only fires half of the caps! I load it, then fire. Often I have to go around twice. Some of the caps fire on the first strike. Others on the second. I am using CIL caps. My brother has a Pedersoli Remington pattern 44cal. His fires on each strike. Never a problem.

I have noticed that the Pedersoli has a lot tighten hammer spring. Could this be the problem? Does any one else out there have the same revolver? If so, have you had any problems?

I did have one tin of Remington caps. They seemed to work fine.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Kevin
 
If the caps are too small they won't seat all the way on the nipple and you will have problems like you describe, a bigger cap may be needed.
 
Use the caps that work on your gun. Uberti says my gun takes #10 caps... It does not, I use #11's with no problem.

Same with ball size, some take .450, some .454, some .457...

'tis the way of blackpowder...
 
Caps are all slightly different... My navy likes CCI #10s... Remington #10s are quite loose by comparison... If yours works with the Remington caps, then that's your answer
 
I've got two of the Uberti Remington 58's. I found that the nipples provided worked best with CCI #11's. CCI #10's are simply too small. And even the #11's benefit from using a push stick to firmly seat the caps on the nipples.

Caps that fail to fire are due to only one thing. And that is that the caps are not seating fully and the primer compound is not sitting against the lip of the nipple. If this happens then you WILL get a fail to fire. The first strike seats the cap like it should have been seated then the second strike sets it off.

I understand that Remington #10's are sort of half way in size between CCI 10's and 11's.
 
My replica .44 c&b which I bought used, must have been repeatedly dry fired many times. Some of the nipples were visibly flattened, and the caps would seat but wouldn't fire until maybe the 3rd or 4th attempt! I ground the nipples down a bit and they work fine. The revolver doesn't get used much so this will do for now, but eventually I'll probably have to get some new nipples.
 
Yeah, the rims of the seats on the nipples need to form a sharp, or at least narrow edge so that the hammer strike easily deforms the primer compound. Flattened nipples won't do what is needed.

If it comes down to it aftermarket companies make some great nipples to replace the OEM ones. Treso has a good reputation but Slix Shot are receiving a lot of good reviews on forums by shooters.
 
I don't know Davie. If on my own that would be fine. But if I start lowering the hammer onto caps and pressing them down like that at the loading table of a cowboy action match I think I'd end up in the Sheriff's jail cell.......
 
Well, I installed new nipples. Still did the same thing. So I tightened up the screw that pushes against the hammer spring. Now I am getting 4 or 5 shots working out of 6. I will try and tighten it up more.

Kevin
 
Took you a while but a light hammer strike is another possibility, I have a SAA that had a very hard hammer strike so I backed off on the screw that holds the end of the mainspring. Turned out the recoil shield was hooped anyway $150 later all is good.
 
kevinasch said:
Well, I installed new nipples. Still did the same thing. So I tightened up the screw that pushes against the hammer spring. Now I am getting 4 or 5 shots working out of 6. I will try and tighten it up more.

Kevin
Click to expand...

The screw in the frame isn't an adjustment. It's there only to allow de-tensioning for removal and installation only. Tighten it fully and move on.

Yes this makes the hammer cocking harder but that's what is needed. There's a secondary role of the hard mainspring too. And that's to avoid hammer push back from pressure in the cap. In an extreme case you can have the hammer actually push back and engage the half ####. And even with slight misadjusting it can lead to the cap pressure pushing back far enough to allow the shards of the caps to drop down between the hammer and the hammer track in the frame. And that's when things go ugly in a hurry if it's enough of a hold back that the bolt spring can't reset.
 
kevinasch said:
Well, I installed new nipples. Still did the same thing. So I tightened up the screw that pushes against the hammer spring. Now I am getting 4 or 5 shots working out of 6. I will try and tighten it up more.

Kevin
Click to expand...

This should be fully tightened down. If not it will work loose. Had to fix another revolver at the range last night for a shooter with the same issues.
 
BCRider said:
I don't know Davie. If on my own that would be fine. But if I start lowering the hammer onto caps and pressing them down like that at the loading table of a cowboy action match I think I'd end up in the Sheriff's jail cell.......
Click to expand...

Specifically disallowed at any SASS sanctioned event. Sure ticket home. Push stick - ONLY!
 
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