I just picked a Replica Walker that looks and feels to be in great shape. Naturally I want to shoot it. I e got FFF powder and some caps a d nothing else except the desire to make smoke. What am I looking at for balls and charges?
Uberti Walker
- Thread starter Dogleg
- Start date
Here is a link to ball size and loading data for Colt open top revolvers, the .454 ball size is the most commonly used in the Walker.
http://pw1.netcom.com/~heliboy/guns/bploads.html
http://pw1.netcom.com/~heliboy/guns/bploads.html
Make sure there is no space between the ball and the powder. An air space will give ignition and pressure problems.
1) make sure the cylinder axix pin has a layer of light grease on it and same with the locating pins on the barrel
2) make sure there is no air gap between the ball and and powder
3) before you load, snap a cap on each cylinder to ensure the vent is free of oil
4) the ball should be 0.445" or slightly larger and fit tightly into the cylinder. Ideallly the mouth of the chamber will shave a ring of lead.
5) for reduced loads, make up the space with cornmeal filler between the powder and the ball.
6) use crisco solid shortening as a lube over the bullet in each chamber. This reduces the chance of a chain fire, and makes powder fouling much softer and easier to clean
7) Take a soft cloth to wipe off excess crisco after each round of shooting
8) clean with hot soapy water, dry in your oven at 215F for 20 minutes, seal the metal with a quality gun oil.
I have been shooting black powder colt revolvers for over almost 40 years. They can be fun, rewarding, and give great accuracy.
I usually fill each chamber and leave just enough room for the ball. A ball seated too high will bind on the barrel and you will have to pull the wedge to get it to index on that chamber.
Keep the barrel wedge tight. Some will have the wedge come loose after a couple of shots.
1) make sure the cylinder axix pin has a layer of light grease on it and same with the locating pins on the barrel
2) make sure there is no air gap between the ball and and powder
3) before you load, snap a cap on each cylinder to ensure the vent is free of oil
4) the ball should be 0.445" or slightly larger and fit tightly into the cylinder. Ideallly the mouth of the chamber will shave a ring of lead.
5) for reduced loads, make up the space with cornmeal filler between the powder and the ball.
6) use crisco solid shortening as a lube over the bullet in each chamber. This reduces the chance of a chain fire, and makes powder fouling much softer and easier to clean
7) Take a soft cloth to wipe off excess crisco after each round of shooting
8) clean with hot soapy water, dry in your oven at 215F for 20 minutes, seal the metal with a quality gun oil.
I have been shooting black powder colt revolvers for over almost 40 years. They can be fun, rewarding, and give great accuracy.
I usually fill each chamber and leave just enough room for the ball. A ball seated too high will bind on the barrel and you will have to pull the wedge to get it to index on that chamber.
Keep the barrel wedge tight. Some will have the wedge come loose after a couple of shots.
Finally got out to shoot it today. I started at 40 grains which may not have even bottomed out the loading lever. 55 grains is all that that would fit and still seat the ball far enough for the cylinder would turn.
I can hold a 6 inch group at 25 yards, elevation is OK but maybe 4 inches left with the 55 grain load. Granted, I never considered myself much of a handgunner.
We tried 3 different #11 caps, and they all like to loosen and fall off even if pinched a bit. Is there a better nipple or tighter fitting cap?
I can hold a 6 inch group at 25 yards, elevation is OK but maybe 4 inches left with the 55 grain load. Granted, I never considered myself much of a handgunner.
We tried 3 different #11 caps, and they all like to loosen and fall off even if pinched a bit. Is there a better nipple or tighter fitting cap?
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- middle of Sask
#10's would probably do the trick. I have a bunch of #11's, and I just pinch them, but a buddy gave me #10's and they're perfect.
My revolver is a Pietta 1858 Remington copy though, not a Walker.
I'd be happy to try #10s if I could find some.
I've got a Ruger Old Army that I haven't shot yet as well, so might be able to use some of these caps on it.
The other thing I need is a proper powder flask. The one I pulled out of my pile of junk must have been made for a flintlock or something. Might as well pour powder out of the can as use it.
Drying in the oven has worked so far, but the wife isn't home. If I suddenly stop posting I'm probably dead.
I've got a Ruger Old Army that I haven't shot yet as well, so might be able to use some of these caps on it.
The other thing I need is a proper powder flask. The one I pulled out of my pile of junk must have been made for a flintlock or something. Might as well pour powder out of the can as use it.
Drying in the oven has worked so far, but the wife isn't home. If I suddenly stop posting I'm probably dead.
You may have to eat it......
The caps on mine also loosened off after they fired. I ordered a set of those 'Ampco bronze' nipples for the Walker from Track of the Wolf. I haven't shot with them yet, but the caps do fit much tighter (this is with CCI #11's).
I found some #10 caps today and they are a very good fit. Can't see them falling off.
Closer inspection of my junk-pile flask shows that it is non adjustable and drops 32 grains of FFF. That probably will be useful for the ROA, not so much the Walker.
Closer inspection of my junk-pile flask shows that it is non adjustable and drops 32 grains of FFF. That probably will be useful for the ROA, not so much the Walker.
