Ultra-compact takedowns

I've hunted Grizzly twice, but have shot just one. They can be tough on a sobering level as bearkilr points out. I no longer have an interest in handguns, or handgun chamberings, on bears that approach the weight of Elk. Pound for pound a pissed off Grizzly is in the top two toughest things on our continent, and certainly the most dangerous, and I spend too much of my life around them for a good enough solution. So cost isn't the top concern, though it remains a reality and unfortunately I have to bear in mind.

This all said I'm loathe to turn this into a classic bear defence thread, simply looking for ultra compact options, they are slim to be sure. So far a trimmed BLR is interesting as you suggest 1899, and BUM as you point out it really won't be tiny thanks to the action and I don't want a mini LOP. Doubles certainly have a lot of advantages, if you're putting up with 24" anyway.
 
What do we know collectively about options for a takedown that breaks down to a couple pieces less than 18" long, and ideally barely over a foot? I'm looking for an ultra compact take down for bear and pot filling duty at work in remote northern BC. .44 Mag carbines won't cut it, Grizzlies are the biggest worry. The Alaskan copilot customs are very attractive, but costly. I currently use a .375 H&H double rifle broken in two, and this gets me to 24", I want a smaller and more weather / damp resistant package.

This desire gets me into true customs, I'm alright with that. Ideally I'd like a stainless gun, and the Copilots are in the lead, even if spendy. They're a lot cheaper than the double rifle, so I have to maintain perspective. pitched if you're reading this I haven't been able to get your custom Marlin out of my head, even 5 years later.

Cartridge: .45-70, .308, or better.
I agree with whoever mentioned the BLR Lightweight TD's and when I was researching TD's the lightest was the 81 HogStalker. Factory 18" barrel and stainless. Either that or Randy's Custom Rifle in the US was making TD's out of Ruger Hawkeyes and Winchester 70's, but getting one up here was impossible/ expensive. Same idea as that sweet-looking custom Marlin you mentioned (Copilot).

Very different animal, but too bad the Nemesis Arms Mini-Windrunner (now sold as the Vanquish) is 12lbs and $4.5K....

That all said, the only 2 advantages of a TD rifle are (1) compact transport and/ or (2) discreet transport.

Once you're at camp you're leaving it assembled for use I'd imagine, so if you can transport a conventional rifle, then maybe the TD isn't worth the limitations and cost.
 
Sorry Ardent, misread your OP regarding not wanting .44 mag.

If you have a Marlin 1895 Guide Gun, you could take the stock off quickly (it's just one screw) and pack it that way. All you need is a good, fitted slot screwdriver.

Then load it with some of those masochistic hot loads with Jae Bok 500 grain "flying ashtrays".
 
Interesting thread.... i am looking for something similar for myself.... for my own reasons that this forum would consider much more tame than yours....

Forget pistol cal rifles for sure.... i would consider the thompson center but you want a repeater..... personally, i am lo9king at picking up a pair of baikal 45-70 doubles..... (a pair because i want an original and a short carry).....

I am sure with your workmanship ability you could turn one into a great stopper..... and a dual purpose 410 pot filler.... and all on the cheap (comparatively speaking)
 
Sorry Ardent, misread your OP regarding not wanting .44 mag.

If you have a Marlin 1895 Guide Gun, you could take the stock off quickly (it's just one screw) and pack it that way. All you need is a good, fitted slot screwdriver...

Hmmm... a modified Guide Gun might be the way to go and less expensive than guns like the Big Horn Armory .500 or Alaskan Co-Pilot.

The Guide Gun stock screw could be replaced by a hex or Torx head. Even better would be to make it semi-captive so it couldn't get lost. But this would involve threading the top arm of the tang as well and a custom bolt with a few threads right below the head. As both ends of the bolt would have to be threaded the same, the bottom arm hole would have to be enlarged and re-threaded. (Or the top one filled and D&T'd to the original size.)

You could also shorten the barrel to reduce OAL, although you'll lose a little velocity as well.

Then load it with some of those masochistic hot loads with Jae Bok 500 grain "flying ashtrays".
Or the Belt Mountain Punch Solids. Gunblast review here. (Alas, probably "unobtanium" in Canada.)

Brain fart over. We now return you to your regular programming.

:)
 
Gimmie a .44 mag carbine with a 1 in 16" twist and I'll gladly plop any critter inside of 75 yds. with 'er with a 340 gr. hardcast boolit at 1600 fps. No more power needed unless yer nervous or unsure.
 
Hmmm... a modified Guide Gun might be the way to go and less expensive than guns like the Big Horn Armory .500 or Alaskan Co-Pilot.

The Guide Gun stock screw could be replaced by a hex or Torx head. Even better would be to make it semi-captive so it couldn't get lost. But this would involve threading the top arm of the tang as well and a custom bolt with a few threads right below the head. As both ends of the bolt would have to be threaded the same, the bottom arm hole would have to be enlarged and re-threaded. (Or the top one filled and D&T'd to the original size.)

You could also shorten the barrel to reduce OAL, although you'll lose a little velocity as well.


Or the Belt Mountain Punch Solids. Gunblast review here. (Alas, probably "unobtanium" in Canada.)

Brain fart over. We now return you to your regular programming.

:)

Good friend and experienced hunter/trapper/pilot/Africa nut, JHC-II here, uses those Belt mountains and swears by em, so they are available.
 
I carried a Marlin GBL all summer in the plane, as compact as they are it's still an awkward thing. And since it wasn't revenue cargo it often took any possible space I could shove it into and not gently. There was days I'd have to have someone on the dock catch the plane, and start unloading it before I could get my seat back enough to get out! So I understand the wanting of a takedown, and those co-pilots would be perfect. I've been lusting after one since the day I started flying. But after the abuse my rifle took this summer, I'm sure a $2500 rifle would stay at the base, despite it being PERFECT and built for that situation.

So my second best would be the Marlin STP. Which is the STBL with a 16" barrel. To this I'd find a way to make the buttstock more easily removed. Unfortunately these rifles are about as hard to come by as it gets, and quite dear when you do.
 
I can tell you "get it", many will tell you takedowns are needless compromises, and then you try and fit everything that needs to go with you in a machine. I think I might have to make a custom leather softcase for a takedown, something with sheepskin inside or the like that can be stuffed hard into nooks and crannies and protect the rifle. The STP looks like a pretty slick rig.
 
Ardent, most likely you're well aware of this, but commonly available mausers are not real hard to take down; two slot style screws. A fellow could get a 9.3 from Trade ex for around $400, cut the barrel and stock to desired length and just keep a $2 stubbie screwdriver in with the rifle. Less than a minute and you've got a genuine repeating mauser action reassebled, and in a real big game chambering. Switching to hex head scews and keeping the hex key on the rifle with a piece of tape or something, is also an idea.
 
Ardent, having read previous threads you have commented in, I can tell you are a
"Price is no object" kind of guy. You should really be thinking " What would Caramel do?" ;-)
 
Just tossing this out there Ardent.
Built my bush carry gun about 35 years ago, and have treasured it ever since. Saved my bacon the one time, and a couple of 'almost's' since then.

LE #4mk1 .303, 181/2" bbl .. 180's @ 2350fps, side folding stock hinged at the rear of pg .. 30 inches long folded. Securely held in folded position by sleeved resessed rare earth magnet. Latched open with carefully inletted interlocking swede mauser barrel band retaining springs. No tools required to latch/unlatch, and has stayed solid these 35+ years without issue. Stock bolt is exposed when folded, and it's 25 inches OAL with the buttstock removed. The stockbolt is captured, and my leatherman will turn the bolts slot back in thightly enough.

Added a wide front post zeroed to the battlesight at 100 yds.
The mag rides on my belt during transport. Good for when there are kids or non gun people in camp as well, good for when paddling or in other forms of transport.

Had a fine member here make me up a custom fitted heavy canvas case that fits to a 'T'. The end flap cinches in/out to accomodate any length from stock off to stock open. Tie off's are fitted, semi-molle style, so one can haul 'er about both in or outside of the pack.

This one has fired thousands of rounds with narry a bobble, much less a jam. The very first firearm ever fired, by many many newbies/youngsters over the years.(most of whom now have pal's)
Absolutely reliable ... as long as the mag lips don't get bent. Which they don't when kept on the on the belt.
Fast to cycle.
I carry a few a few SG loads with .32acp 73gr bullets at 900 fps for pot meat.

I'm east, so no griz/polar here, .303 is plenty 'nuff.
Were I in your baliwick with the big fellas, this LE would become a .35 Epps or similar.
 
Ardent, most likely you're well aware of this, but commonly available mausers are not real hard to take down; two slot style screws. A fellow could get a 9.3 from Trade ex for around $400, cut the barrel and stock to desired length and just keep a $2 stubbie screwdriver in with the rifle. Less than a minute and you've got a genuine repeating mauser action reassebled, and in a real big game chambering. Switching to hex head scews and keeping the hex key on the rifle with a piece of tape or something, is also an idea.

that is very clever and very simple. like the idea of head hex screw like on the actual zastava ...
i will put them on my ruger too.

Phil
 
Just tossing this out there Ardent.
Built my bush carry gun about 35 years ago, and have treasured it ever since. Saved my bacon the one time, and a couple of 'almost's' since then.

LE #4mk1 .303, 181/2" bbl .. 180's @ 2350fps, side folding stock hinged at the rear of pg .. 30 inches long folded. Securely held in folded position by sleeved resessed rare earth magnet. Latched open with carefully inletted interlocking swede mauser barrel band retaining springs. No tools required to latch/unlatch, and has stayed solid these 35+ years without issue. Stock bolt is exposed when folded, and it's 25 inches OAL with the buttstock removed. The stockbolt is captured, and my leatherman will turn the bolts slot back in thightly enough.

Added a wide front post zeroed to the battlesight at 100 yds.
The mag rides on my belt during transport. Good for when there are kids or non gun people in camp as well, good for when paddling or in other forms of transport.

Had a fine member here make me up a custom fitted heavy canvas case that fits to a 'T'. The end flap cinches in/out to accomodate any length from stock off to stock open. Tie off's are fitted, semi-molle style, so one can haul 'er about both in or outside of the pack.

This one has fired thousands of rounds with narry a bobble, much less a jam. The very first firearm ever fired, by many many newbies/youngsters over the years.(most of whom now have pal's)
Absolutely reliable ... as long as the mag lips don't get bent. Which they don't when kept on the on the belt.
Fast to cycle.
I carry a few a few SG loads with .32acp 73gr bullets at 900 fps for pot meat.

I'm east, so no griz/polar here, .303 is plenty 'nuff.
Were I in your baliwick with the big fellas, this LE would become a .35 Epps or similar.

Pics, man, PICS! (Even if it's sub-calibre/power for Ardent's needs.) :)
 
Pics, man, PICS! (Even if it's sub-calibre/power for Ardent's needs.) :)

Saw that one coming, so's I did ! :)lol.
Sorry gent's no can do. :(
An economically and electron challenged erstwhile fossil, .. I don't even own a camera .. let alone one 'o them wonderous hand held internet/phone/text "beam me up scotty" type 'o modern comm devices. Hell, I can barely dial an analog phone!.

Will attempt intricate written response to any legitimate enquiries tho ...

The rifle is "in use" ... resting here on my lap ... :D
 
Saw that one coming, so's I did ! :)lol.
Sorry gent's no can do. :(
An economically and electron challenged erstwhile fossil, .. I don't even own a camera .. let alone one 'o them wonderous hand held internet/phone/text "beam me up scotty" type 'o modern comm devices. Hell, I can barely dial an analog phone!.

Will attempt intricate written response to any legitimate enquiries tho ...

The rifle is "in use" ... resting here on my lap ... :D

Found ya!
 
...An economically and electron challenged erstwhile fossil, .. I don't even own a camera .. let alone one 'o them wonderous hand held internet/phone/text "beam me up scotty" type 'o modern comm devices. Hell, I can barely dial an analog phone!.

You're doing spectacularly well with those two tin cans a bit of string, though.

The rifle is "in use" ... resting here on my lap ... :D

:bangHead: Aarrrggghhhhhh... So near and yet so far. That's just... well... CRUEL.

Surely you must have an "un-fossilized" friend (or a 9 y.o. nephew or grandson) with an iThing who could help us out here? Sigh. :)
 
Ardent, most likely you're well aware of this, but commonly available mausers are not real hard to take down; two slot style screws. A fellow could get a 9.3 from Trade ex for around $400, cut the barrel and stock to desired length and just keep a $2 stubbie screwdriver in with the rifle. Less than a minute and you've got a genuine repeating mauser action reassebled, and in a real big game chambering. Switching to hex head scews and keeping the hex key on the rifle with a piece of tape or something, is also an idea.

I reallly like this idea..... I would personally be looking at wing head thumb type screws so no tool would be required....

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