Ultralight Ring/Scope Combo for an ultralight rifle

R

Rodder

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I just picked up a Tikka T3x ultralite to use as a bush rifle, and at this point plan to top it with a Leupold FX-II fixed 2.5 power scope. The vast majority of shots will be inside of 100 yards and in previous years I havent crept above 2x while using my 2-10x Razor. I want to keep things as light as possible without sacrificing quality and would prefer aluminum or stainless steel to help prevent rust. With that in mind I want to skip a rail and utilize one of the many tikka specific mounts out there. I've used Talley rings in the past and wasn't happy with them so they're not an option this time around.

Warne rings appear robust but are only available in carbon steel. I like how optilock rings allow you to move the rear ring along the top of the reciever, but in stainless steel are reportedly very heavy as well. Spuhr makes an optilock insert in aluminum which would help with weight but reviews seem pretty negative with many say they come loose easily.

Outside of those two I see Leupold makes a backcountry set that look like a nicer made set of Talleys. DNZ is a less known option that has one and two piece aluminum options for the Tikka as well, but may be hard to get into the country.

For those with experience with any of the above rings, what do you think of your mounts and would you recommend them?
 
I'm curious - what didn't you like about the Talley's? They can be a bit of a pain on open style receivers. I've found preference for direct mounts like DNZ and NEAR on these receivers but on something like a browning or a tikka Talley's work GREAT provided the installer aligns them properly. They are pretty hard to beat when it comes to weight - I have several sets and most weight slightly over 2oz.

The DNZ is just under 3oz. I like the single screw (on either side of the ring cap) design, but overall the Talley's have a better fit and finish.

I haven't tried the Spuhr direct mount for Tikka, and it's unlikely I will now that I've found the Area 419 pic rail.

If you have a few bucks to spend, the NEAR Alphahunter is hard to beat. Hardened, stress relieved stainless steel, ~3.5oz
 
Despite using a torque wrench, the set of talleys I used put some pretty bad ring marks on my one scope. I'm holding one of them in my hand right now and still don't think the build quality on them is very good. It's dissapointing to hear that the DNZ rings are worse than these. I just took a look at the alphahunters and it doesn't look like they come in a 1" option.
 
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The DNZ I've been around don't mark up a scope like Talley LWs. Not even close.

Like Hand Skills, I prefer a rail on a Tikka. But if not using a rail I'd probably go with Sportsmatch rings. Light, direct mounting w/ recoil lug.
 
The key with mounting individual rings like Talley's is ensuring proper alignment. I have sold MANY unmarked scopes here on the EE that have been in and out of Talley's. That's because I take great care aligning the rings. If Talley rings are marking your scope, there is a problem with installation, not manufacture. Talley is so confident in their tolerances they recommend AGAINST lapping their rings.

Direct mounts solve the alignment problem. They are simple to bolt on, no alignment required.

If the price of the Alphahunter doesn't scare you, give Richard a call. All of his mounts are built to order and I'm pretty sure he'd be happy to do a 1" version for you. If you are looking for quality, it doesn't get any better than NEAR!
 
The tikka is a different beast when using talley lightweights, as the top of the receiver is perfectly flat. On say, a Remington 700, the rings mount over an arc, which aligns them to each other. With the tikka, the tolerances and clearance between the screws holes in the talleys will allow you to twist 1 ring clockwise and 1 ring the other way and the end up not in perfect alignment.

I have found a trick to aligning the talleys. You will need a straight diameter 1" or 30mm. I have a turned pc of aluminum for each size, but anything will work.

Assuming that at least 1 of the talley rings will have the "foot" pointing out (away from the opposite ring), once you mocked up the scope to check; eye relief; bolt clearance; and robust mounting, blue Loctite the ring with "foot in" and allow to dry (even overnight). Then place the other ring on the receiver, install the screws and back out 1/2 turn. Now set your straight diameter into the lower rings, but be sure that it leaves 1 screw exposed on the loose ring. Install both upper sets of clamps. Now the ring are perfectly in line with each other, install the 1 screw that is accessible, Loctite and torque. Again after drying, remove the top clamps and Loctite the last screw in place. Install your scope and sight in.
 
Sounds like you're building a very nice purpose built rig, optimized for the type of hunting you do. Congratulations!:)

I am curious what caliber you decided to get and what weight you expect your combo to top out at (all in, including sling)?
 
Hand Skills said:
The key with mounting individual rings like Talley's is ensuring proper alignment. I have sold MANY unmarked scopes here on the EE that have been in and out of Talley's. That's because I take great care aligning the rings. If Talley rings are marking your scope, there is a problem with installation, not manufacture. Talley is so confident in their tolerances they recommend AGAINST lapping their rings.

Direct mounts solve the alignment problem. They are simple to bolt on, no alignment required.

If the price of the Alphahunter doesn't scare you, give Richard a call. All of his mounts are built to order and I'm pretty sure he'd be happy to do a 1" version for you. If you are looking for quality, it doesn't get any better than NEAR!
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There very well may have been a problem with how they were installed. Outside of this one set of Talley lightweights installed on a remington 700, I've only ever used high end rings on a pic rail. The Talleys were the direct mount style though. I'll give NEAR a call and see what they say. If they can't do it I may settle for the 1pc DNZ game reapers to avoid any potential alignment issues.
PSE said:
Sounds like you're building a very nice purpose built rig, optimized for the type of hunting you do. Congratulations!:)

I am curious what caliber you decided to get and what weight you expect your combo to top out at (all in, including sling)?
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I went with 6.5 creedmoor. I've been using a .243win for years but wanted something with more punch that would still meet the maximum .270 bullet diameter restriction in southern ontario in case I wanted to use it for coyotes. Al Flahertys weighed a .308win superlite and it came in at 6.02lbs. My creedmoor will weigh a touch more. The scope is allegedly 6.5oz and rings will be in the 3oz ballpark depending on what I end up with. All in all we're looking at around 6lbs 10oz without ammo or a sling. I don't hunt with a sling so I couldn't tell you what that would add for weight.
 
To each his own, and your comment about using it double duty for coyote explains some of the thought process, but you have selected a caliber with very long legs for mainly an application that would be within 200 ft/lbs energy of a 30-30 within 100 yards. I have a leupold 2.5x ultralight on my 45-70 and I would not consider it on a coyote gun. The scope I have was about 6.9 ounces, I had a leupold 2-7x33 that I weighed at 8.7 ounces. For the very slight difference I would recommend something like that.

The best bang for the buck to save weight on a tikka is switching to a Mcmillan edge or Wildcat stock. The factory Tupperware comes in around 28 ounces, I think a wildcat can be had as low as 16ish ounces with not much of a recoil pad. The Mcmillan edge I have is about 22ounces on my superlight. If you are anywhere near Windsor and would reconsider the talley lightweights, I would be glad to give you a hand aligning them as I mentioned above.

Tikka ultralight (22-250) in McMillan edge, with 3-18 vx6:

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Rodder said:
I went with 6.5 creedmoor. I've been using a .243win for years but wanted something with more punch that would still meet the maximum .270 bullet diameter restriction in southern ontario in case I wanted to use it for coyotes. Al Flahertys weighed a .308win superlite and it came in at 6.02lbs. My creedmoor will weigh a touch more. The scope is allegedly 6.5oz and rings will be in the 3oz ballpark depending on what I end up with. All in all we're looking at around 6lbs 10oz without ammo or a sling. I don't hunt with a sling so I couldn't tell you what that would add for weight.
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Good choice for your area and best of luck with your rig. I am contemplating something similar and once you get your rig up and running, I am hoping you share with us the test results of your load developement.

Sounds like an interesting project for sure!!
 
DMS1 said:
To each his own, and your comment about using it double duty for coyote explains some of the thought process, but you have selected a caliber with very long legs for mainly an application that would be within 200 ft/lbs energy of a 30-30 within 100 yards. I have a leupold 2.5x ultralight on my 45-70 and I would not consider it on a coyote gun. The scope I have was about 6.9 ounces, I had a leupold 2-7x33 that I weighed at 8.7 ounces. For the very slight difference I would recommend something like that.

The best bang for the buck to save weight on a tikka is switching to a Mcmillan edge or Wildcat stock. The factory Tupperware comes in around 28 ounces, I think a wildcat can be had as low as 16ish ounces with not much of a recoil pad. The Mcmillan edge I have is about 22ounces on my superlight. If you are anywhere near Windsor and would reconsider the talley lightweights, I would be glad to give you a hand aligning them as I mentioned above.

Tikka ultralight (22-250) in McMillan edge, with 3-18 vx6:

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I really do appreciate the offer. I'm a little over three hours from there otherwise that might change my decision. I already own a Marlin in 30-30, this is just another option for the hunting I do. I did take a look at some wildcat stocks prior to buying this. At this point I think I'm going to be happy with a sub 7lb rifle, but we'll see what happens in the future.

PSE said:
Good choice for your area and best of luck with your rig. I am contemplating something similar and once you get your rig up and running, I am hoping you share with us the test results of your load developement.

Sounds like an interesting project for sure!!
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I'll be starting out with factory Hornady hunting ammo, but have 6.5cr dies so we'll see how long I make it before I start hand loading. I'm going to throw my Razor gen 2 on the rifle when it comes in to shoot for groups and will try to post the results.

And for anyone that cares, NEAR got back to me already and it sounds like they're willing to make it in a 1" diameter.
 
I have had similar negative experiences with Talley rings on a Tikka in the past. DMS1 your mounting technique sounds good, too bad there isn't an exterior alignment device that could be applied so that it wouldn't take 24 hours to install rings. I have always used a picatinny rail and rings on my Tikka rifles, but I just ordered two sets of the Warne rings to try, they are direct mount and have a recoil pin that fits in the recess hole in the receiver, not sure if they will be the answer or not, but I am going to try them and see. I have used Richard Near products in the past, his products really are top notch, excellent fit and finish and great materials.
 
There are alignment bars available as a commercial product.

Some folks I know just have a machinist turn an aluminum rod to the diameter of their scope, cut it in half and use that.

With Tikka reciever (which is flat on top) I have aligned Talley's with only a caliper and a straight edge (in a pinch). Similar to installing a coupling between a motor and shaft. Alignment is alignment.

There are many ways to skin the cat!
 
Crashman said:
I have had similar negative experiences with Talley rings on a Tikka in the past. DMS1 your mounting technique sounds good, too bad there isn't an exterior alignment device that could be applied so that it wouldn't take 24 hours to install rings. I have always used a picatinny rail and rings on my Tikka rifles, but I just ordered two sets of the Warne rings to try, they are direct mount and have a recoil pin that fits in the recess hole in the receiver, not sure if they will be the answer or not, but I am going to try them and see. I have used Richard Near products in the past, his products really are top notch, excellent fit and finish and great materials.
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We use alignment bars, lapping if needed, and carefully torque everything when mounting scopes. Still wasn't happy with the Talley LWs. Add to that, a couple friends having them crack- one set thru the base screws, the other thru the top half- and I don't own a single set anymore. Too many good options out there.
 
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