Uncheckering a Marlin 336c. Anyone ever do it?

[nomad 68]

I had to replace the stock set on my 336 and the set I found is checkered. Also, the forend is way too thick so I'm not worried about sanding off too much. The butt however, is a different story. Wondering if there is enough thickness at wrist to sand out the checkering? It is a straight stock. Butt is from an 1894c and forend a 336c but the grain and colour match well. Just hate the checkering is all.anyone ever do this? Results? Thanks

 

[Can-down]

Should be fine, go for it.

 

[Silvertip13]

Sand away!

 

[mrgoat]

Is it cut or pressed.? Cut you will probably be all right. Pressed, you may have to sand deeper as the act of pressing the checkering damages the underlying wood. Also some of that pressed checkering varies in depth greatly from one side of a panel to another.

 

[nomad 68]

Is it cut or pressed.? Cut you will probably be all right. Pressed, you may have to sand deeper as the act of pressing the checkering damages the underlying wood. Also some of that pressed checkering varies in depth greatly from one side of a panel to another.

It is cut checkering. That has been my concern as well. How deep I would have to go.

 

[buzzmagoo]

Not much more than the deepest part of the checkering you will see as you are sanding, if it is to deep you could try steaming it out ( By raising the grain of the wood ) and sanding some more . If you are hand sanding be shure and use a sanding block to help and keep it all level

 

[mrgoat]

It is cut checkering. That has been my concern as well. How deep I would have to go.

Just deep enough so as to make the checkering disappear, probably a 1/16" or better depending on how deep it was cut. Some of new factory so called cut checkering is lazer cut, and can be better than a 1/16"deep. Older worn checkering can be quite shallow. Your going to have to be the judge on this. I have reshaped and removed checkering on many stocks, my usual method is with a fine round file/rasp. Your in the grip area where there is no flat surfaces. Everything is curved and rounded, so sanding blocks are not the way to go, but you still want to control cut depth and prevent hills and valleys. That's why I use a round file about 1/2" in dia. You don't want anything to course as to tear the wood but cut it. I even use a small mill file at times, like the one you use to sharpen your chain saw. Roll the file with each stroke. Once you have the majority of the checkering almost invisible go to sand paper, something in the100 to 150 grit range. Depending on how meaty the grip area is for wood you can take all the checkering right out with the files. This is going to be your call. When you got everything looking good finish it off with 220. Wipe the wood down with a damp cloth. Let it dry this will raise the whiskers on the wood. Sand again with 220 and your good to go to finishing.