Under Sized Chamber

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I bought a Butler Creek .920 ultralight 10/22 barrel . It isn't carbon fiber , it's plastic with a steel barrel liner . New , never fired and i bought it in the package off a guy for 50 bucks . Installed it and of 9 brands of ammo , 2 feed . Took the barrel off and tried to drop rounds in . Same thing . Most brands go 2/3rd's way in and then have to be forced in with thumb pressure and then picked out with a knife blade .

I'm not going to spend any money on a 50 dollar barrel taking it to a gunsmith and having him run a reamer in . Here's the thought . I get .20 cal , or about there dowling from Canadian Tire , wrap one end in 1 inch wide 600 grit sandpaper then go to 1000 grit to finish it off and turn the dowel by hand , eyeballing it to keep it straight . Keep checking with ammo as i'm using 600 grit and when the rounds will chamber , do a final polish with 1000 grit . I can get the dowling for 3 bucks and i already have the sandpaper .

Anybody have a better idea as 3 bucks is all i'm willing to spend on a cheap plastic junk barrel although it's new . By going very slow i think i can keep the wood dowling very straight as i turn it between my thumb and index finger . The only ammo that chambers is Eley and i'll never waste expensive ammo in a cheap barrel .

Although new in the package i wouldn't pay postage to send it back to Butler Creek so that isn't an option .

I'm going to do it myself but looking to see if there is a better suggestion on how to do it .
 
Don't know if it would work but how about a fired casing and some valve lapping compound. Drill out the back of the case and epoxy a dowel into it for rotating, just a thought.
 
I guess you gave it a good cleaning with solvent so you are sure
there is no grease or other things in the chamber.


Here's one suggestion:
After using sandpaper, use a Dremel tool with a "cratex" bit for finnish.
They sell it where they sell Dremmel tools and is about 6 bux or so.
Cratex is a rubber that has abrasive particles embeded.

One more thing: after pushing a round in the chamber and taking it out,
look on the case for signs of rubbing.
Those signs will indicate the tight spots for you.
Good luck.
 
Is it a match chamber? I had a similar situation with my GM barrel and figured out it wouldn't chamber rounds with larger profile bullets on them, namely the bigger solid ones. Hollow points and 38gr solids work fine.
 
The dowel and sandpaper idea doesn't sound completely out to lunch considering there is not a huge investment at stake. Rather than try to keep it very roughly straight by eye, why not leave the dowel a few inches longer than your barrel, tape the sandpaper flap to one end and run the opposite end down the barrel and out the muzzle until the sandpaper is in the chamber. Then make a mark on the dowel at the muzzle so you can see that you're not sanding beyond the chamber. Chuck the dowel in a drill and have at it.
Let us know what you figure out.
 
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