I have tried everything and the cheapest and fastest strategy is to use furniture stripper and medium steel wool and scrub the finish off, first with a scraper, then with medium steel wool, this will remove any small dents also. This process will leave the original stain in place and the stock will look nice, but not shiny at all. I actually like this look, but you can then rub in true oil or a hand rub varnish for more protection. Then finish with extra fine steel wool or wet sandpaper 3000 to give it a final smooth finish. Sanding is only for serious repairs, avoid if possible.
Unfinished Wood Stocks
- Thread starter WhelanLad
- Start date
You can do a light fine grit sanding after stripping, but do not sand the checkering. Clean the stripped stock with mineral spirits to remove any stripper residue. Then apply oil in several successive thin coats with a rag. Wipe off any residual oil after 5 minutes and allow a few hours or more between coats depending on air moisture levels.
fishslinger
CGN Regular
- Location
- southern ontario
If I’m not mistaken, Tru-oil is a mixture of boiled linseed oil, varnish and mineral sprits. I have read on many woodworking sites of people making there own mixture for cheaper then the tru-oil product. But I guess it’s only worth making if you use a lot. Good product anyways.
ive had quite a good look at what ive done to this stock now, an i feel like i have scratched up the gloss finish, thinned it down alot , have not touched wood in most cases and feel the Dull colour is a turn on BUT i rekon that i havnt "broken the seal" on the finish---- im guna rough it like this for a while until i notice any maybe damp spots or moisture clinging on to it.
so perhaps similiar to what supercub mentioned... i may be on that page.
i will await a new recoil pad and take some photos for you guys an repost.
then you guys can give me an opinon on what to do next!
appreciate the discussion
so perhaps similiar to what supercub mentioned... i may be on that page.
i will await a new recoil pad and take some photos for you guys an repost.
then you guys can give me an opinon on what to do next!
appreciate the discussion
1963beretta
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vaughan, Ontario
BLO is great but is a long process. I like using Tru-oil...you can get high gloss finish or matte finish. If you’re desired outcome is a satin sheen, use Watco danish oil. The medium and dark walnut colours work really well. If your raw wood is dark, use the light shade. If your raw wood is really light, use the dark walnut. Wet sand the Watco with 1000 grit sandpaper. A few coats and the wood will be as smooth as a baby’s bottom. Its very easy to do.
If you arent mistaken, then Tru-oil and Danish oil have similar compositions. Watco Danish oil is easily obtained. I have used it for various woodworking projects, and quite like it. The varnish component gives the waterproofing feature that BLO does not.
Legendary stock maker Al Linden's book Restocking a Rifle has long sections about the various finishes for gunstocks. And he knows of what he speaks. The book is a bit hard to find and can be expensive but its well worth finding a copy to read, if only for Linden's unique writing style.
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As a rule, with black walnut linseed and linseed based finishes are best avoided as the linseed reacts with uv-sunlight and blackens the wood, obscuring the figure.
The reason for tru-oil varnish's popularity is because it doesn't obscure black walnut colors. For black walnut, I recommend tru-oil and use tru-oil or other varnishes over linseed unless wood figure isn't important.
The reason for tru-oil varnish's popularity is because it doesn't obscure black walnut colors. For black walnut, I recommend tru-oil and use tru-oil or other varnishes over linseed unless wood figure isn't important.
The professional rifle builders that I know (incl. ACGG members) almost exclusively use Tung Oil these days. However, they are using such high grades of very hard tightly-grained European walnut (Juglans Regia) and finishing them so finely, that I think almost any finish will do for them. With the softer open grained (fillers required) American black walnuts (Juglans Nigra) the needs are different.
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- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
I've tried that, but was never happy with the slightly sticky feel it gives.
Tru-oil is Tung oil with a pollinizer added according to Lee valley. mineral spirits can be added to lengthen the drying time.
fishslinger
CGN Regular
- Location
- southern ontario
[QUOTETru-oil is Tung oil with a pollinizer added according to Lee valley. mineral spirits can be added to lengthen the drying time.][/QUOTE]
I'm not sure as once I was trying to find out the ingredients and best I found was a safety data sheet for Birchwood casey tri-oil and it had linseed oil listed as an ingredient.
I'm not sure as once I was trying to find out the ingredients and best I found was a safety data sheet for Birchwood casey tri-oil and it had linseed oil listed as an ingredient.
Watco danish oil is not water proof at all .First good rain and your stock goes white .Try Daly's ship and shore sealer, straight up, apply and keep it wet till it stops soaking in set it aside for 15 or 20 min.Rub off excess and let dry.Than hand rub in wet and dry 400 grit and smear the mud created around to fill the pores.Make sure it is wet .Use blocks of rubber or erasers to wrap the sand paper so not to round off the edges repeat til a nice satin finish and the blotching from the mud is gone.You can touch it up after the season by wiping down and applying a thin amount of Daly's and let stand for 15 or 20 minutes and rub off vigorously.The finish is in the wood not on the wood and harden the wood by as much as 30 percent
Keep in mind if your finish is not water proof your wood is not stabilized you will be constantly re zeroing your rifle as it is will be affected by humidity .
