Unitize a m14 gas system

stevebc said:
So JB weld works... but may not be a lasting solution. On the other hand, if it lets go, it could either be repaired again (which could get tiresome), or just removed slowly and carefully so that no sign is left. I have to admit, it's tempting.
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If you ever want to weld after an application of JB Weld you need to ensure that ALL of the epoxy is removed in its entirety.

I once tried to repair an aluminum after cooler end tank on a Detroit diesel that the guy slathered a handful of JB Weld onto. It was pure hell cleaning it off as the welds were flat out contaminated and I couldn't get anything to stick to it. I had to grind it all off, heat it up to burn the residue out if the aluminum, then scrub it with a clean stainless brush and toluene. Afterwards had to heat treated the entire thing as well.

If you use JB Weld, it might be better to just buy a new gas system if you wish to weld it.
 
Lowestform said:
If you ever want to weld after an application of JB Weld you need to ensure that ALL of the epoxy is removed in its entirety.

I once tried to repair an aluminum after cooler end tank on a Detroit diesel that the guy slathered a handful of JB Weld onto. It was pure hell cleaning it off as the welds were flat out contaminated and I couldn't get anything to stick to it. I had to grind it all off, heat it up to burn the residue out if the aluminum, then scrub it with a clean stainless brush and toluene. Afterwards had to heat treated the entire thing as well.

If you use JB Weld, it might be better to just buy a new gas system if you wish to weld it.
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you have to grind the Parkerizing off anyways.
 
TacticalTeacher said:
Casey at Tac Ord is DA man! :cool:
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Not like you would know about M305's lol! I still have a dvd from one of your early clinics as I could not attend due to last minute complications at work.

Skullboy did mine (I believe .45ACPKing did it for Skullboy actually) way back when he was still painting stocks. .45ACPKing did my second M305 including a barrel chop mod among other things before the Norinco "SOCOM's" were available.
 
Beater said:
why not silver solder
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1st of all with silver solder which I use for various problems you must remove any old surface finish that will not burn off, it also requires a lot if heat near a dull red on steel and lastly and most important if you need to return the finish to the original military parkizing the oxide reaction will not work on the silver solder portion of the object and also the flux that must be used can be a bugger to get all off too--Dieseldog!
 
dieseldog said:
1st of all with silver solder which I use for various problems you must remove any old surface finish that will not burn off, it also requires a lot if heat near a dull red on steel and lastly and most important if you need to return the finish to the original military parkizing the oxide reaction will not work on the silver solder portion of the object and also the flux that must be used can be a bugger to get all off too--Dieseldog!
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well that all depends on what kind of silver you use. lots dont requier that kind of heat. and yes you have to remove finish and make things bright and kleen i have some very low temp stuff i use for sites and things like that when i get time i am going to try it.
aso we dont need to remove a ton of finish, just inside where you want to let it stick. i doubt you would even see it if done right

anyways we shall see soon enough
 
Beater said:
well that all depends on what kind of silver you use. lots dont requier that kind of heat. and yes you have to remove finish and make things bright and kleen i have some very low temp stuff i use for sites and things like that when i get time i am going to try it.
aso we dont need to remove a ton of finish, just inside where you want to let it stick. i doubt you would even see it if done right

anyways we shall see soon enough
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Any chance you could take pictures, do a sort of "how to" thread?
 
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