Unsafe H&K USP **Picture**
- Thread starter D-Boy
- Start date
If you're sure your finger wasn't on the trigger, you should get a gunsmith to give the gun a thorough once over. I know more about chewing gum than I do about fixing guns, but I know that's a very serious malfunction. Thankfully, from the sounds of it no-one was hurt. Personally, I wouldn't put that gun within 5 feet of live ammunition until a professional checked it out.
Are you using handloads...High primer? Firing pin safety working?Cleaned the gun? And like the guy said above, sure about that finger? USP's are pretty fool proof I have never heard of one firing this way. Get in checked out before you shoot it again!
Scott
Scott
one range officer and 10 shoot ave seen my finger.
and 10 min (and 15 round) before my trigger refuse to reset .
I ave a Gunsmith formation , I can't see what the problem . I would like to know if some one ave hear or read something like this .
** factory ammo
and 10 min (and 15 round) before my trigger refuse to reset .
I ave a Gunsmith formation , I can't see what the problem . I would like to know if some one ave hear or read something like this .
** factory ammo
Last edited:
F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
Take the gun apart, and MAKE SURE the firing pin, AND the firing pin block are both working.
If you have an OLDER model USP, it may not have the "half ####" function, and if the firing pin block were to break, the gun would fire when decocked.
You can do something, like put a pencil into the barrel (with gun pointing up) and "decock" it and see if the pencil moves. Also, take the slide OFF (do a field strip) and try to push the firing pin from the back, and see if it moves more than 1 or 2 mm. If it does (and you can see the firing pin protrude from the firing pin hole) then the firing pin block and/or the firing pin is damaged. (in order to see the firing pin protrude, you'll need to use something like a pen to poke into the back of the firing pin. It should move about 5mm or so)
If it doesn't move, then try pushing down the firing pin block (can do with hand) and see if it moves. It may be a problem with the frame. Try using the decocker, and see if the "Sear Actuator" (part beside the disconnecter - to the left side with gun pointing downrange) moves up. It should NOT. it should only move when the trigger is pulled!
This is not impossible, but VERY RARE. HK will replace it for you.
There were a bad batch of firing pins (in 2000 or 2002 IIRC) that were prone to breakage... If it broke at a place after the firing pin block, it MAY potentially be causing enough force to hit the primer.
Also, this is all moot if the gun is new. It should only decock to half-#### position.
If the gun is older, it may still decock to the fully "uncocked" position, and be resting on the firing pin.
In any case, the gun is damaged, send it back to HK to get it fixed.
You didn't take the firing pin block out, did you? This will help make the trigger pull better, but will destroy that safety, and if its an older model (like state) you just made the decocker into a second trigger. (not blaming, just gotta ask. This has been done before so im just making sure!)
If you have an OLDER model USP, it may not have the "half ####" function, and if the firing pin block were to break, the gun would fire when decocked.
You can do something, like put a pencil into the barrel (with gun pointing up) and "decock" it and see if the pencil moves. Also, take the slide OFF (do a field strip) and try to push the firing pin from the back, and see if it moves more than 1 or 2 mm. If it does (and you can see the firing pin protrude from the firing pin hole) then the firing pin block and/or the firing pin is damaged. (in order to see the firing pin protrude, you'll need to use something like a pen to poke into the back of the firing pin. It should move about 5mm or so)
If it doesn't move, then try pushing down the firing pin block (can do with hand) and see if it moves. It may be a problem with the frame. Try using the decocker, and see if the "Sear Actuator" (part beside the disconnecter - to the left side with gun pointing downrange) moves up. It should NOT. it should only move when the trigger is pulled!
This is not impossible, but VERY RARE. HK will replace it for you.
There were a bad batch of firing pins (in 2000 or 2002 IIRC) that were prone to breakage... If it broke at a place after the firing pin block, it MAY potentially be causing enough force to hit the primer.
Also, this is all moot if the gun is new. It should only decock to half-#### position.
If the gun is older, it may still decock to the fully "uncocked" position, and be resting on the firing pin.
In any case, the gun is damaged, send it back to HK to get it fixed.
You didn't take the firing pin block out, did you? This will help make the trigger pull better, but will destroy that safety, and if its an older model (like state) you just made the decocker into a second trigger. (not blaming, just gotta ask. This has been done before so im just making sure!)
Last edited:
TheGamerXxX
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- North of the 49, Manitoba
At the range do this... load a round from a mag and than decock... check the primer, see if it has firing pin marks on it.
Chances are if it does, clean the darn gun lol. Mine had this problem a few weeks ago, when safetying a gun (unloading the chambered round) I noticed it had marks on the primer that looked almost like the firing pin or something... I cleaned the gun problem solved
(usp.45)
Luke
Chances are if it does, clean the darn gun lol. Mine had this problem a few weeks ago, when safetying a gun (unloading the chambered round) I noticed it had marks on the primer that looked almost like the firing pin or something... I cleaned the gun problem solved
(usp.45)
Luke
I solve the problem
when i buy this gun - the saler tell me the custom sport trigger was install in
But I think t was the roung hammer for this series of USP
Look the picture the half-#### notch is not present on the custom sport hammer,
so each time i decock the trigger the hammer hit the Firing pin until the safety start to be over-use and the firing pin hit the primer
I install the original trigger . The hammer don't hit the firing pin when decocked .
Now i ave to change the firing pin and is safety
And do a lot of range test
With dry firing I made, I don't see a big change in the quality of the trigger
when i buy this gun - the saler tell me the custom sport trigger was install in
But I think t was the roung hammer for this series of USP
Look the picture the half-#### notch is not present on the custom sport hammer,
so each time i decock the trigger the hammer hit the Firing pin until the safety start to be over-use and the firing pin hit the primer
I install the original trigger . The hammer don't hit the firing pin when decocked .
Now i ave to change the firing pin and is safety
And do a lot of range test
With dry firing I made, I don't see a big change in the quality of the trigger
Last edited:
the "Sporting" is the "Tuning Kit", is the "match " trigger..
2 very different hammers, that use different "catch" pieces....
this is documented in the HK Customer service bulletin dated 25-01-05. They state that the use of the new hammer with the old catch will result in a discharge.
Actually, there are two different versions of the "match hammer" as well.
The hammer on the left is the new hammer design, and if it has an "S" on its side, it is the match hammer.
2 very different hammers, that use different "catch" pieces....
this is documented in the HK Customer service bulletin dated 25-01-05. They state that the use of the new hammer with the old catch will result in a discharge.
Actually, there are two different versions of the "match hammer" as well.
The hammer on the left is the new hammer design, and if it has an "S" on its side, it is the match hammer.
