*UPDATE* Ideas for removing case stuck in chamber

My VZ 58 is very prone to the shell casings rupturing and leaving behind broken brass in the chamber. First time I couldn't get it out myself the local gun smith charged me $50.00 to remove it. After that I bought a .223 broken shell extractor from Brownell"s. Since then, I've removed more broken brass than I can remember. If I'd paid $50.00 a pop, the rifle would have broke the bank. BTW, I've had the rifle in for warranty work and it still suffers ruptures. Brass cartridges rupture at a rate of every two to three rounds while steel cartridges don't rupture but the firing pin isn't long/strong enough to pop the primers in about 40% of the steel cased rounds.
 
For broken shell extractors your best bet is Brownells. Definitely recommend for any bottleneck case you reload. Apparently also a good recommendation for any semi-auto with higher round counts too.

Occasionally they come available from other channels as milsurp but it's hit and miss.

Some listed by vendors on Amazon, good luck getting them shipped to Canada.
They're just tools so ITAR doesn't apply.

ht tp://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=broken+shell+extractor&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abroken+shell+extractor
 
MGM1 said:
My VZ 58 is very prone to the shell casings rupturing and leaving behind broken brass in the chamber. First time I couldn't get it out myself the local gun smith charged me $50.00 to remove it. After that I bought a .223 broken shell extractor from Brownell"s. Since then, I've removed more broken brass than I can remember. If I'd paid $50.00 a pop, the rifle would have broke the bank. BTW, I've had the rifle in for warranty work and it still suffers ruptures. Brass cartridges rupture at a rate of every two to three rounds while steel cartridges don't rupture but the firing pin isn't long/strong enough to pop the primers in about 40% of the steel cased rounds.
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Ever have the headspace checked?? Mine in 762 was rupturing cases, and it was due to bad headspace.

I got my extractor from brownells.
 
I did have it checked under warranty and the headspace was out. It was set to spec and test fired fine. It was returned but I'm still having the same problem. I'm working with the warranty center to have the problem resolved.



lone-wolf said:
Ever have the headspace checked?? Mine in 762 was rupturing cases, and it was due to bad headspace.

I got my extractor from brownells.
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I'd chuck the gun in a padded vice and drive a 00 buck, (.310 if you have it), lead ball down the barrel with some type of oil and some wooden dowels like slugging the bore. But that's me.

[YOUTUBE]ErFaJlUVs1Y[/YOUTUBE]
 
LordEvilPepper said:
if all else fails take a mechnics pick toolt and drive it inbetween the case and the chamber wall, the case will start to colapse inward. once started a small flathead should let you work it more, if the case doesn't pop out at this point drive a rod onto it from the barrel end, as there will be a lip to actualy hit on now. Ive got stuck cases out this way without damaging the gun or the reloading die.
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Sorry. That might not turn out well. It is very easy to scratch the chamber this way.
I make my own shell extractors out of stud extractors.
 
it pritty nerve racking and pan staking to do... but if you have no other way it works. the mechanic's pick insn't going to bwe the one to scratch it, its a round spring steel bar with a fine blunt nose tip, thats the easy part, few taps and the case pops a bit, its the screwdriver part if you need to so it that makes your Ahole pucker a bit....
 
It has nothing to do with the lacquer on the case. Everyone seems to think this is the problem. The shell isn't actually stuck, its just in an awkward position to get a good grip and tap it out. Go to your local hardware store and buy a stick of JB stick weld. Take a chunk off and mush it together, then shove it into the case of the shell. Put a nice size piece in there. Let it dry for 10 - 20 minutes. Once its dry, take a cleaning rod and a hammer and gently tap it out. It will come out very easily 2 - 3 taps so as long as you don't smack the JB weld out instead. I've done this multiple times without fail including a 30-30, 9mm, and a .270WSM. The 30-30 and .270WSM both were not semi autos, should be proof enough that its actually a shell rupture like everyone calls it and not the extractor ripping the end of the case off because the shell "glued" its sell in from the lacquer. The shell literally breaks apart. Either from a manufacture defect or weak material used.
 
Having actually had lacquered cases stick bad enough that the extractor tore off the edge of the rim without a case separation I can say with absolute certainty that lacquer will build up in the chamber and cause stuck cases if not cleaned often enough. The case was no worse than any others except for the damage to the extractor groove. So yes, lacquer buildup can cause a case to stick and if it happens at the right time on the right case it can separate.

Mumbles Marble Mouth said:
It has nothing to do with the lacquer on the case. Everyone seems to think this is the problem. The shell isn't actually stuck, its just in an awkward position to get a good grip and tap it out. Go to your local hardware store and buy a stick of JB stick weld. Take a chunk off and mush it together, then shove it into the case of the shell. Put a nice size piece in there. Let it dry for 10 - 20 minutes. Once its dry, take a cleaning rod and a hammer and gently tap it out. It will come out very easily 2 - 3 taps so as long as you don't smack the JB weld out instead. I've done this multiple times without fail including a 30-30, 9mm, and a .270WSM. The 30-30 and .270WSM both were not semi autos, should be proof enough that its actually a shell rupture like everyone calls it and not the extractor ripping the end of the case off because the shell "glued" its sell in from the lacquer. The shell literally breaks apart. Either from a manufacture defect or weak material used.
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You can also use a brass or nylon brush. Push it in from the chamber end through the case mouth and pull it out again. The bristles reverse and pull the case out.

Ben
 
mspben said:
You can also use a brass or nylon brush. Push it in from the chamber end through the case mouth and pull it out again. The bristles reverse and pull the case out.
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The bristles don't reverse, and that's what grabs onto the mouth of the case. For this you need a brush that will fit tightly, then just poke a bit of it past the chamber into the barrel. If you jam the whole thing through, the resistance to pulling it back will be too much.
 
red_bailey said:
The bristles don't reverse, and that's what grabs onto the mouth of the case. For this you need a brush that will fit tightly, then just poke a bit of it past the chamber into the barrel. If you jam the whole thing through, the resistance to pulling it back will be too much.
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Correct. My bad.

Must be quite stuck! Damn...

Ben
 
just a thought

perhaps a quick brushing of molybdenum disulphide powder in the chamber may make clean the varnish/lacq much easier... i know that industry used WS2 powder as a mold release compound
 
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