UPDATE, post #14...Anyone ever had a barrel re-contoured/profiled?

BongoBob

BongoBob

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Greetings,

So, I had this rifle built last year and it's a tack driver, but I already have 2 "heavy barrel" .308 target rifles and I don't need another one.

I ordered it as a #4 contour from Benchmark, but it's a bit heavier than I imagined it, so I'm considering having the barrel turned down to a different contour.

I'm thinking a #2 or 2.5 contour might be more like what I'm looking for...something to hunt with rather than target shoot.

It's on a Rem 700 action.

Cal is .308.
Length is 22".

I've spoken to Guntech (the gunsmith that installed and chambered the barrel) about this and he says it's no problem, and shouldn't effect accuracy.

Of course barrel harmonics will change, so I might have to re-develop some loads but that's cool with me.

If you've gone down this road please let me know how it worked out for you.

Cheers,
Bongobob

Here's a pic.

IMG_3860_zps7doktdd9.jpg
 
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A re-profiled, shortened (21-1/8") and re-crowned DWM-made Brazilian contract Mauser 98 barrel with a Brno model 21 front sight, rear sight base and barrel band -- after rust bluing.

Chambered in 7x57, it was one of the most accurate barrels I've ever used on a custom rifle. That barrel is now with another nutter here.

View attachment 54353
 
I have probably had this done half a dozen times over the past 50+ years. Never was disappointed with the result, including one 270 Winchester that was turned down pencil-thin by Bevan King.

Ted
 
I would leave the barrel profile as it is.
Just cut the barrel to 20", mill in the forearm under the barrel some relief channels, hollow and trim the heavy butstock,
use lightweight scope (like Leupold VX2 4x33mm) in lightweight rings and call it good.
You can drop the weight up to 24oz that way and the rifle might be even more accurate.
Heavy grooving in the barrel would lighten it another 4-6 oz while preserving rigidity.

GR8 2c worth....
 
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I have done 1/2 doz or more and never found it affected accuracy.........either way. If the barrel shot well before it shot well after. However the opposite remained true as well, I tried on a heavy barrel that despite excellent bore did not shoot all that well. It also did not shoot any better after the "lathe diet". I still have and shoot a 264 WM that I used my old silhouette heavy stainless 26" barrel to build. It was originally a 6.5-308 (long before the 260 was legitimized) which I turned down to a featherweight contour and then trimmed to 24". This rifle will still put 3 into 1/2" when I do my part right.
 
If you want to save weight on that rig do not discount the effect that removing weight from the barrel will have on the overall handling of the rifle. That is a heavy laminate stock. You can't take weight off the bow and expect the stern to handle properly. I'd change the stock and then, if you still don't like the handling, give the barrel the "lathe diet".
 
OK...the work is done!

I sent the barreled action to ATRS (Alberta Tactical Rifle). They turned the barrel down about .100" to get the profile I wanted, then cera-coated the whole thing.

It turned out great...ATRS did a nice job, with a quick turn-around and excellent communication...I'm very happy with their work.

The rifle now weighs about 3/4 of a pound less, balances nicely (just a tad front heavy) and the best part? It shoots exactly the same as before...no need to go through load development again! :)

The target below is with 44.5g of IMR 4166 and Barnes 150g TTSX bullets, 3 rounds, 100 yards.

IMG_6201_zpszbvdeuzu.jpg


IMG_6202_zpssu0zihee.jpg
 
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Damn ... that is nice BongoBob !!!

Really like his kind of custom build 700.

Very nice rifle indeed. Can't go wrong with ATRS's work.
 
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