Used Browning Auto 5 vs. Remington 1100

Like or hate the 1100 no other gun brought more people into the shooting sports over the years than they did and still are helping almost 60 years later
The old man would sell them by the 100's back in the day and could never keep them in stock
Cheers
 
Afraid I can't add anything useful to the conversation. Just bought a nice used Auto 5, 12 ga/3" - because I've always wanted one, even though I rarely use a shot gun - I just like guns - all sorts of them.
What I would like to ask, seeing as how you guys are already talking about it, is the use of steel shot. I'm confused and need some education on the subject. From my limited exposure to shot shell construction, there's a plastic/nylon compression cup, that contains the shot. It is my understanding that the shot stays inside this cup, all the way through the bore and once it's clear of the muzzle, the shot continues and the cup falls behind. If this is the case - wouldn't it make no difference if the shot was lead or steel, as it's not touching the bore anyhow and is contained inside this cup ? What is it I'm missing ? - or not understanding ? Thanks for reading.
 
Lots of good info, thanks very much folks.

I'm surprised to see some people here saying they find the 1100 heavy. Is it significantly heavier than aluminum receiver autos?

Anyone willing to throw their wood stocked 1100 / A5 on a scale?
 
Can't help you with the 1100 - but my Auto 5 (30" barrel) weighs 9.21 lbs. Can't imagine an 1100 weighing more than that.
 
To help clear up the steel vs lead issue in 1100 and Auto 5 guns. High velocity LARGE (lettered) steel shot can and has expanded tightly choked guns. It has even frozen screw in steel rated chokes in place. Numbered steel at reasonable velocities i.e.: 1400 fps lessen this issue considerably. Having said that modern steel loads in numbered shot with moderate velocities do not harm barrels by scoring. This is the result of thick new wad types. ( last 25 years or so) Tightly choked guns are still at moderate risk. Having a choke opened to Modified or looser will negate choke damage. I know I will catch some flak for this statement but it has been proven ( in England even nitro proofed game guns with open chokes can shoot steel with little effect on the gun MODERATE loads are the key) I shoot 1100 and Auto 5 shotguns a lot. My chokes are modified or more open and to date thousands of steel shot loads have had no effect on the guns. I have complete confidence in the steels used in Auto 5 barrels and Remington 1100 barrels for steel shot use. AGAIN numbered shot and moderate velocity. If you want to shot 1550 fps T or F steel shot buy a new gun rated for that load.

Darryl
 
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Thanks Darryl. So, from what you're saying, the issue with steel shot is more of a concern with the choke, than the harder (than lead) shot doing damage to the bore ?
 
madtrapper143 said:
To help clear up the steel vs lead issue in 1100 and Auto 5 guns. High velocity LARGE (numbered) steel shot can and has expanded tightly choked guns. It has even frozen screw in steel rated chokes in place. Numbered steel at reasonable velocities i.e.: 1400 fps lessen this issue considerably. Having said that modern steel loads in numbered shot with moderate velocities do not harm barrels by scoring. This is the result of thick new wad types. ( last 25 years or so) Tightly choked guns are still at moderate risk. Having a choke opened to Modified or looser will negate choke damage. I know I will catch some flak for this statement but it has been proven ( in England even nitro proofed game guns with open chokes can shoot steel with little effect on the gun MODERATE loads are the key) I shoot 1100 and Auto 5 shotguns a lot. My chokes are modified or more open and to date thousands of steel shot loads have had no effect on the guns. I have complete confidence in the steels used in Auto 5 barrels and Remington 1100 barrels for steel shot use. AGAIN numbered shot and moderate velocity. If you want to shot 1550 fps T or F steel shot buy a new gun rated for that load.

Darryl
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I completely agree with this. I have used steel shot in older Brownings, as well as other guns, with no issues. I've known several people over the years who have used steel shot in everything from model 12's, old Brownings of various models, to old side by sides without issue. As mentioned, open up the chokes and stick with moderate loads.
 
fire@will said:
Thanks Darryl. So, from what you're saying, the issue with steel shot is more of a concern with the choke, than the harder (than lead) shot doing damage to the bore ?
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That's about it. Use steel shot sensibly and most issues will be moot. Of course twist steel barrels, badly corroded and damaged barrels should not be fired with modern pressure loads no matter steel or lead charged.

Darryl
 
madtrapper143 said:
To help clear up the steel vs lead issue in 1100 and Auto 5 guns. High velocity LARGE (lettered) steel shot can and has expanded tightly choked guns. It has even frozen screw in steel rated chokes in place. Numbered steel at reasonable velocities i.e.: 1400 fps lessen this issue considerably. Having said that modern steel loads in numbered shot with moderate velocities do not harm barrels by scoring. This is the result of thick new wad types. ( last 25 years or so) Tightly choked guns are still at moderate risk. Having a choke opened to Modified or looser will negate choke damage. I know I will catch some flak for this statement but it has been proven ( in England even nitro proofed game guns with open chokes can shoot steel with little effect on the gun MODERATE loads are the key) I shoot 1100 and Auto 5 shotguns a lot. My chokes are modified or more open and to date thousands of steel shot loads have had no effect on the guns. I have complete confidence in the steels used in Auto 5 barrels and Remington 1100 barrels for steel shot use. AGAIN numbered shot and moderate velocity. If you want to shot 1550 fps T or F steel shot buy a new gun rated for that load.

Darryl
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Agree also. I don't do it but know guys that do and they stay under BB and have never had an issue a choke failure or belled barrel
Wet shells dropped in water now that is a different story IMO and I would stay clear of those
Cheers
 
There are 3 Auto 5 variants. The Magnum 12 of course is hefty. The standard frame 12 is slightly less hefty. The Light 12 is the lightest when equipped with 26" or 28" plain barrels but it is still not a super light by any means. Density of wood used in the stock fore end have an effect also. I have a 26" plain barreled Light 12 that goes 7 1/2 lbs. My 26" barreled (with rib) Magnum 12 pushes 8 1/2 pounds. They are great for sitting in a duck blind but for long walks upland my Winchester 59 is the bomb.

Darryl
 
My Auto V Light with 26" plain barrel is 7-15oz. 1100 is 7-15. Mossberg 930 walnut is 8-5. 930 turkey synthetic 7-8. And 12 ga Ugartechea sidelock is 6-7oz :).
 
alpining said:
That sounds weighty... Older model?
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I'm guessing it's an older model. I tried looking up the serial number, but couldn't find it on Browning's site. I kept looking around on the internet and found one with a similar serial number, that was made in '69. The serial number is 68V 307XX. I also have no idea what the choke is - can't find any reference to it anywhere on the gun barrel - unless it's in some "code" I don't know about and it's hiding in this group of hieroglyphs Auto 5.jpg
 

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I like my old A5. A good buddy on this site sold it to me for a steal of a deal and to this day it remains the only shotgun I have ever scored a triple on mallards with.

Jump them out of a ditch in a delta potato field and Boom, Boom, Boom. Shocked me how smooth that went.
 
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