USIG Stocks what do I need to know?

Fremen

Fremen

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So I got a USGI Stock for my birthday.

Just wondering what I would need to start moving over my M305 to it?

Also should I do anything to it?
 
Assuming that your stock still has the cutouts/relieved areas for the fire control selector, it is advisable to fill them in, especially the one towards the front of the receiver, as the gap that is now there because of the missing selector can allow the guide rod retention pin to walk out. I did mine with epoxy and popsicle sticks. I'm sure if you search there is probably a write up somewhere. If you have a fibreglass stock it is pretty easy to refinish your stock to it's original condition. If it's wood, well, someone else might have to answer that one.

Matt
 
I followed other's advice here and built up the area where the retention pin is with JB Weld. Other than that, I didn't even have to bed it, and it was a very tight fit. If you plan on scoping the M305, I recommend adding an adjustable cheek riser, such as the one by member TAC PRO on here.
 
Amen on the Tac Pro riser! Although you may face the scorn of 'purists' for drilling holes in an original USGI. For me, it was worth it.
 
BE SURE YOU DON"T HAVE HAMMER FOLLOW!

after you re-assemble your rifle in the usgi stock, pull the action open, hold the trigger down and release, make sure the hammer didn't follow everything back up. This isn't full auto, the would be classified as OOBWSDARYWFD - out of battery with spontaneous disassembly and ruin your whole f*cking day.

the process is detailed in the stickies:

Morpheus32 said:
Gents,

With all the people upgrading their M305s, I though I would add a reminder for a test after assembly safety check. Whenever you take apart your rifle, swap out the stock or trigger or parts, you should conduct a simple test after assembly.

Firstly, ensure it is unloaded, pull the charging handle to the rear and release. The hammer should be locked to the rear. Place the safety on, and try to pull the trigger. You should not be able to make the hammer release despite moderate pressure. Now take the rifle off safe, pull the trigger...the hammer should be released and make contact with the bolt. Now keeping the trigger pulled to the rear, while pulling the chargin handle to the rear and release...keeping the trigger pulled to the rear and hold. The hammer should be caught by the sear and be locked to the rear. Fire the action, keep the trigger to the rear and cycle the action 4 or 5 times again. The hammer should be engaged by the sear initially and remain locked down. Now with the hammer fully back and engaged by the sear....slowly release the trigger, the hammer should come off the sear and be engaged by the trigger. Pull the trigger and the action should fire.

If at any time the hammer does not engage as noted or fires with the safety on, you have a problem and should not fire your rifle. The problem can be the trigger group parts, the relationship with the stock and the trigger/receiver.

I bring this up as I have a rather troublesome M305 that will fail this test when I use a number of different stocks. If the sear will not catch the hammer...well lets just say it would be interesting....you could have an out of battery firing or the rifle go full auto. It would be extremely dangerous and an out of battery firing could allow you to pack your rifle home in a shoe box...as you come back from the hospital

Jeff
Click to expand...

If you do have hammer follow, Sand down the area closest to the grip, where the trigger group sits - again is detailed in the stickies.

here, as detailed by Brobee:


Brobee said:
The fix is pretty easy for the most part....the issue stems from dimensional differences in the stock that effect the trigger group/receiver spacing relationship. In 95% of the guns I have seen exhibiting this problem, fixng it involves milling/sanding out a small amount of material from the ledge on the bottom of the stock where the back end of the trigger group sits. The following photographs are of a SAGE stock, however it is no different on a USGI or wooden one:

Before:
trigger_group_recess_mod_a_medium.jpg


After:
trigger_group_recess_mod_c_medium.jpg


For your rifle to be safe, the disconnector in your trigger group MUST catch the hammer when the trigger is fully depressed while the action cycles:

trigger_group_recess_mod_e_medium.jpg


Good luck...

Brobee
Click to expand...

I had to take mine down a little to remove the hammer follow.
 
I just use a # 10 x 24 x 2" (really a 1 3/4" bolt) screw and nut from Cambodian Tire... Nothing fancy. Buttplate folded down hides the shiny screw head. Black marker disguises it. Posted this up on my stickies but that was almost 10 years ago! :D

When you order from Numrich Gun Parts in West Hurley , NY, that's what they will send ya! :eek:

Nothing special... Don't spend lots of money!

Barney
 
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