Using Oak For Making Stocks

Pardon? What kind of walnut is it then?

I'm not sure of the proper name for that species. It is a walnut, only the variety where the wall nuts have a light colored shell. The sap wood is very white and the heart wood a grey color. I noticed the heart wood and sap wood is drying at a severely different rate, causing the boards to bow. I'll have to put weight on the center as they dry.

It may not be a good choice either, that's why I ask.

I do have access to maple and cherry also. I have a piece of maple that has been drying in a cool place for the last 13 or 14 years. I should mill that up and check it out.

Where I am black Walnut is rare, White Walnut/Butternut is abundant.
 
Quote Originally Posted by guntech
You would be way farther ahead to buy a blank from an established stock suppler.


True, but what fun would that be? I have a lot of time on my hands and access to different woods.

When I was a teen, my mentor told me, "The day we stop learning, is the day they are burying you." If my whole story was told, all would understand I have to keep my mind and hands busy.

Stock layout is important. The layout of the grain structure can make the difference between a piece of wood finishing into a great stock or just a piece of junk.

I am not suggesting you stop learning, I am suggesting you learn...by starting with a correct hunk of wood... stock suppliers not only have semi inletted blanks but they have slabs of wood (usually 2.5 inches or thicker) roughly cut out with correct grain structure for a gun stock in mind. These are taken from a tree before the rest of the tree is cut for lumber.

If you want to learn the hard way, make your stock from any old hunk of lumber you have... it is going to be your stock.
 
The first stock I ever carved was made out of red oak for an old 303 ross and I hunted with it for years but it was kind of an ugly wood for a stock.
Guntech is right about getting a blank that way you will end up with a chunk of a tree that is correct for making a stock.

You can use a lot of kinds of wood for making a stock imo so long as it is not a wood that is to prone to crack or warp with changes in humidity and seasons.

If you must use wood you can get for free go for it but keep in mind that the selection of your wood needs to be properly seasoned and it MUST BE QUARTER SAWN if you want any stability in it like not warping when seasons change.
From what information I have gathered over the years on stock making the best way to have the wood is air dried and well seasoned no less than 2 or 3 years according to some stockmakers.

If you check your local hardwood dealers and go through the wood piles there should be something in there that would be suitable.this is where I have always found most of my wood.

If you never carved a stock yet I guess it wouldn't hurt to practice on freebies but like guntech says oak is kind of ugly for a stock.

Btw I am in no way a professional stockmaker but have made my fair share of them and this is what works good for me good luck and keep your tools sharp.
 
You can use a lot of kinds of wood for making a stock imo so long as it is not a wood that is to prone to crack or warp with changes in humidity and seasons.

All wood is prone to warping with changes in humidity and seasons.

The wood should be dried and seasoned for 1 year per inch and some often go for 2 years an inch. Unless its from a reputable blank seller, many stock makers will presume the wood has only sat for one year and season it a couple more years.

If you do want to use oak it will be much more stable if you cut it into boards 1/2 to one inch thick and use a poly glue to bond the layers together. Also because the boards are thinner it will take less to dry and season. What ever way you go don't forget to coat the ends grain with wax so it does not dry out too fast and check.

EDIT: it did not come out in my sig that I have a blog and YouTube channel on making laminated stock blanks https://www.youtube.com/user/NBGunsmith here and here http://nbgunsmith.wordpress.com/
 
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Stock layout is important. The layout of the grain structure can make the difference between a piece of wood finishing into a great stock or just a piece of junk.

I am not suggesting you stop learning, I am suggesting you learn...by starting with a correct hunk of wood... stock suppliers not only have semi inletted blanks but they have slabs of wood (usually 2.5 inches or thicker) roughly cut out with correct grain structure for a gun stock in mind. These are taken from a tree before the rest of the tree is cut for lumber.

I have been checking out different sites that sell blanks. A Good one is Prophet River Firearms. They have layout lines on their pictures that are helpful in figuring out layout in relation to the intended blank's properties. I understand what you've been suggesting.

BTW, I'm an easy going guy and haven't assumed you've been anything other than being helpful. Thank you again.

I'm going to make an end table with my oak.

Nick P, checked out the videos. :) Good advice from everyone here.
 
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Not to sidetrack but why haven't I seen teak stocks?
Teak works great in a wet environment.
Is it cost, poor availabilty, lack of character, weight or some other issue?
 
I am surprised someone hasn't gone to Rona and tried making a stock out of pressure treated 2"x6" 's. Spruce is light in weight when dry, and very strong. Befitted with a stainless action and barrel it would be impervious to the elements. When the stock starts to look a little shabby a good coating of end cut should bring it around. Just what Gary (gtrussell) needs for the 270 WSM in the hash Manitoba weather....!!!!
 
Spruce is a soft wood only rating around 660 Janka hardness and some go as low as 390ish, walnut and maple used for stocks are 1000-1400+. I believe the recoil of even a 270 would damage Spruce.
 
Only made one stock, for my Browning BPS and it's served me well over the years. Used three ash boards laminated with Elmers outdoor glue, no problems whatsoever in it coming undone. Ash was relatively easy to work with but suffers from an open grain that doesn't sand or take stain well. Not pretty but for a beater shotgun it's plenty good for my needs plus I made it with a slight cast-off to suit my lefty self!

 
If you must use wood you can get for free go for it but keep in mind that the selection of your wood needs to be properly seasoned and it MUST BE QUARTER SAWN if you want any stability in it like not warping when seasons change.



I have always read that also, Quartersawn is best for stocks, yet I have seldom if ever seen a factory wood stock that is NOT Plainsawn.
 
I am surprised someone hasn't gone to Rona and tried making a stock out of pressure treated 2"x6" 's. Spruce is light in weight when dry, and very strong. Befitted with a stainless action and barrel it would be impervious to the elements. When the stock starts to look a little shabby a good coating of end cut should bring it around. Just what Gary (gtrussell) needs for the 270 WSM in the hash Manitoba weather....!!!!

I never thought of it that way,Peter.Life with no sense of humour,is no fun at all.
 
Only made one stock, for my Browning BPS and it's served me well over the years. Used three ash boards laminated with Elmers outdoor glue, no problems whatsoever in it coming undone. Ash was relatively easy to work with but suffers from an open grain that doesn't sand or take stain well. Not pretty but for a beater shotgun it's plenty good for my needs plus I made it with a slight cast-off to suit my lefty self!


Ash n' Oak are similar with that "pitty" grain. I do like the look of it though... The inherent weakness (warpage, cracking) of those woods is mitigated by laminating your stock.

I've worked with poplar before, and think it might make for a very colourful laminated stock. From green through to purple wood. Very dense when dry...looks nice with stainless steel. One of the cheapest commercial hardwoods going too
 
Ash n' Oak are similar with that "pitty" grain. I do like the look of it though... The inherent weakness (warpage, cracking) of those woods is mitigated by laminating your stock.

You are spot-on regarding the "pitty" grain, it's especially noticeable when the planks are quarter-sawn. Here's a pic I took of the stock a couple of days ago showing the interesting zebra pattern of ash. < SHAMELESS PLUG GOES HERE>>>>Gobbler was 20 lbs. with a 6" beard and 1/2 spurs.<<<< SHAMELESS PLUG GOES HERE>

 
Pro woodworker here.....20 years......have worked with every wood from yellow pine to snake wood to ancient Kauri....post #2 and #4 are the reason that in 200 years nobody has made stocks from oak.

*But* post #7 is the most valuable in the thread....and the advice you should follow :)

But it makes good gun carriages.;)

Grizz
 
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