Value of an old Rolling Block No 2 in .22LR

exseparatist

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Hi everybody,

I am the owner of an old Remington Rolling Block No 2 in .22 LR - It was a scalled down version of the larger military action.

The barrel is full octogonal, 19 in long (obviously uncut, factory made as is). The FRONT sight is a folding flip down type (not the rear), I have never seen this feature before.

The condition is good antique. No rust, but some finish still remaining, the Remington stampings are still clear. The springs are strong, the mechanic is tight. No wood missing or repair. Shoot well. After firing, an empty brass of CCI Stinger is still cylindrical and easy to extract.

The barrel bore is frosted but the riflings are still there, excepeted for the few inches after the chamber. The elevator blade of the rear sight is missing.

I am not an expert in antique or a collector. When I bought it, my idea was to install a barrel lining but, honnestly, I have enough projects in my live and I prefer to concentrate my energies on other projects.

What is the value of such little rifle ?

Thank you

Ex.
 
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Gentlemen,

I did the identification by comparating the internal parts of my rolling block to a cross sectional drawing of a Number 2.

I will try to take a picture tomorrow. It will be far better.

Thank you

Ex
 
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OK, here are the pictures promised but before I want to correct one of my previous affirmations. I removed my contact lenses (yeah !) and I carefully checked inside the barrel bore and I saw riflings in the first inches after the chamber, but they are less stronger than the other one. Also, there are like two rings in the barrel. I cannot tell what it is. One of these rings is few inches after the chamber and the second is few inches before the muzzle.

More infos;

The serial number is 6### .

There are two factory holes for a tang peep sight. I suspect that they were factory drilled because these holes dont go through the action upper tang.




















I let the experts saying about my rifle.
 
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How long is the barrel?
The rings are likely bulges from the rifle being fired with obstructions.
The rifle is likely a dandy candidate for sleeving, which is a straightforeward job.
 
I am pretty sure the gun is a #4 because one photo clearly shows there is no lower tang and the #4 is the only rolling block with no lower tang. There is one shot of the receiver which appears to show a curved back to it but I am pretty sure that is an optical ilusion from the camera because other shots appear to show it square. Both #4 and #2 came in 22 rimfire and the #2 is more desireable because it is a stronger action. As a #4 with a ringed and apparently worn barrel that requires sleeving, I would put it at around $75 - $100. They make nice guns once the barrel is done.

cheers mooncoon
 
I am pretty sure the gun is a #4 because one photo clearly shows there is no lower tang and the #4 is the only rolling block with no lower tang. There is one shot of the receiver which appears to show a curved back to it but I am pretty sure that is an optical ilusion from the camera because other shots appear to show it square....

Hello. I am not an expert, but I did my Shelock Holmes job when I got my Rolling Block :rolleyes:... and like any real gunnutz, I took it apart to clean it, to analyse how its components work and to oil everything that can be oilled :dancingbanana:

On this link, you can find a drawing and the internal parts of a number 2: http://www.rollingblockparts.com/no2.html

I am positive that the parts 2D and 2S are in my trigger guard assembly. They are not int the figured part of the No 4 http://www.rollingblockparts.com/no4.html

Also, the mainspring 2J of my rolling block pull up the rear of the hammer 2Q via a small link 2V. The mainspring of a number 4 does not work with a link.

My last argument is that the number 4 has a gate and an hammer pins that are virtually screws. My rifle has two smouth pins retained by a little plate and a little screw.

Cheers

Ex
 
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Most puzzling because referring to frames #5 and 7 from the top, your gun clearly does not have a lower tang (frame 5) and has a square back to the receiver. Both are characteristic of the model 4. At the same time the pivot pins with the associated retainer bar are typical of the model 2 and other larger rolling blocks.

cheers mooncoon
 
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Definitely not a #4 judging by the curve of the receiver where it meets the stock.
 
Most puzzling because referring to frames #5 and 7 from the top, your gun clearly does not have a lower tang (frame 5) and has a square back to the receiver. Both are characteristic of the model 4. At the same time the pivot pins with the associated retainer bar are typical of the model 2 and other larger rolling blocks.

cheers mooncoon

I can see the lower tang in 2 pics. It is most definitely a #2. It also has the pin keeper where the #4 has screws holding the block and hammer.

Nice little gun you have there (too bad about the barrel) and certainly worth more than $200. Not sure what the going rate would be exactly though. Personally I would look into getting it lined.
 
I have to conceed it is a #2 --- I got turned around looking at those close up photos and was looking at the forestock to frame joint.
I still think with the barrel damage , it is worth more in the $200 range because it sounds like it needs sleeving

cheers mooncoon
 
I just found interresting facts...

The stamping of the company name on the top of the barrel, '' E. Remington & Sons'', was used only from 1856 to 1888....

The Remington No 2 was produced from 1873 to 1909

About the chambering, the .22 long rfile was introduced in 1887...but maybe my rolling block No 2 is on reality a .22 Long (1871) or an extra-long (1880)....

Obviously, the gun was manufactured somewere between 1873 and 1888. Also, there are more chances that the caliber is not a Long Rifle rather than it is .... Elementary my dear Watson !!!!
 
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