Vancouver drill press?

pazzo

pazzo

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Anybody have a drill press in Vancouver area or have an idea how to remove this broken scope base screw from this receiver? I'm pretty sure it needs to be drilled out. Beer or cash awaits :)

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The extractor is going to bite into the receiver.

Here is what I would do:
Remove the bolt.
Use a needle file to cut from the hole into the thick side of the screw.
When the cut extends almost to the other side of the screw, I would use a small punch and collapse the remains of the screw.
 
This is like a 2mm hole or so. This approach works with hole that small? ^
Rifle is a BNIB Tikka T3x CTR for reference.
 
Yes, the needle file approach works.
Unless Tikka is using proprietary screws, it will be a 6-48.
 
Penetrating oil and a bit of heat to expand the receiver so the oil can get in there.
I'd use a heat gun rather than a torch for inquiring minds.
Might take a time or two.
Then a small punch and see if it will move.

Drilling any more is going to cause damage to the unit as tiriaq mentions.

Not sure how small of a dremel bit there is out there, but I would use this method
and follow through as tiriaq suggested.
 
I would use a small end mill just under the size of the screw hole in a mill or a drill press with little or no runout. The end mill will bite on the end of that screw and shouldn't deflect as much or at all. then you should be able to get a good centered hole in it, and pick out the remaining pieces of metal. I would not try drilling any more with just a drill. My 2c.
 
tiriaq said:
The extractor is going to bite into the receiver.

Here is what I would do:
Remove the bolt.
Use a needle file to cut from the hole into the thick side of the screw.
When the cut extends almost to the other side of the screw, I would use a small punch and collapse the remains of the screw.
Click to expand...

Or use a Dremel with a small diamond burr and cut into the thick side...

extractors can be a real problem in inexperienced hands...
 
Filing through the drilled hole and collapsing the screw is the safest approach. Another option is a jeweller's saw, threaded through the hole. Don't know where you are, but any jewellery supply will have tools you need. Michael's or an art supply as also possibilities. Automotive stuff is mostly too large for our scale of work. Alternately, get the smallest fine file you can, then grind most of it away until it fits.

I would assume that Loctite is present and warm it it before trying anything else. Spot warm with a small metal rod, heated on your stove top. Use pliers! You may be able to turn it out with a fine centre punch.
 
Your going to need a few buckets of patience most of all! Small diamond burr is how I would straighten it out before the extracting attempt. I would also heat the remaining part of the screw with a soldering iron to locally heat just the screw. Lots of patience.
 
Thanks for all the help everybody. Would anybody be able to link me to the correct Dremel bit?
 
did the screw simply break or was it over torqued? is there any thread lock on it?
Im hesitant to use any sort of hand held tool if youre into preserving looks.

Personally an endmill in a machine with some meat to it would be best. Mill the broken screw with a bit smaller thant the hole it is in and then chase it out using either a pick or an extractor. If you can find an endmill that is exactly the size of the hole (inner dia. No including threads) You might be able to chase the broken screw with a tap. Be careful with this one however... break the tap and then youre really hooped. Not sure this is a back yard repair. Another method that may work for you...

As KAmlooky mentions heat. this is a good start. Heat the surrounding metal so as to expand it some and possibly break any thread lock bond if any. then find a reverse drill bit. ( you can find one at TECHNICUT. They are on 92 near 192 in langley) put that in your drill and drill it out in reverse... Sometimes you'll get a bite and the broken fastener will come zipping out with little issue or damage to the "parent" part. If youve already tried to drill it out. Find a reverse bit slightly larger than the hole you put into it.
If you call technicut. ask them about broken screw extraction tools. They surely will have something to save your day.

http://www.technicutinc.com/

good luck.
Id help you out but im not on the mainland any longer.
 
I'm with the other two that recommended a mill centered on the screw and slowly fed down...in other words a trip to a local machine shop equipped with proper vise & milling machine... The Dremel tool idea works but Invariably there will be a "slip" of some kind with a Dremel unless you are very experienced with their use.
 
I tried to remove the factory scope rail and one of the torx screwheads was stripped from factory. Go figure. After messing around with it for some time it snapped off.
 
fingers284 said:
I'm with the other two that recommended a mill centered on the screw and slowly fed down...in other words a trip to a local machine shop equipped with proper vise & milling machine
Click to expand...

And that brings us back to my OP :)
 
The problem that I see is that the "drill out" is off center.. This will make it very difficult to remove it cleanly. The end mill solution is your best bet. Sorry this happened to you. I know how much it sucks and all the extra thinking that goes into " how tha ffff am I going to deal with this?!?"
Ive broken off screws in motorcycle engine cases.. not my fault. They get overtorqued at the factory and then over time water infiltrates the threads and corrosion bonds metal to aluminum. Then someone like me comes along whose job it is to change the clutch and yeah. Nowadays I grease those bi metal joints. Its the only way to keep the threads clean...

Anyway.. Try technicut tomorrow. They will be able to point you in a direction. You might just get lucky..... Do you have access the a bench grinder?
how big of a drill did you use when you tried to punch out the existing screw? I'll see if I can get that sucker out for you from afar...

pazzo said:
I tried to remove the factory scope rail and one of the torx screwheads was stripped from factory. Go figure. After messing around with it for some time it snapped off.
Click to expand...

Does this mean that the screw rotates in the hole or is it locked in there?

Guntech and Tiriaq also have a viable point.

something like this... :

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Quality-20-Piece-Diamond-Rotary-Tool/dp/B000MOI9G6

anything nearer the left hand side and go check out princess auto as well as technicut.... This may be your easiest "home do it" solution. just be careful that you do not compromise the threaded hole. There comes a point when you remove enough material that the screw will become weak and may begin to colapse on itself.. like tin foil. then you can use a pick tool similat to dental instrument and dig the remaining part ofthe screw out.. gotta pay attention tho. you have to grind the whole screw. if you leave a thick bit at the bottom of the screw hole..... trouble might find you. oh and a little lube may help to lengthen the longevity of the bit. dont press too hard. let the bit do the work. take your time..
Its all a simple matter of time and pressure...
 
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