Ventilation. This might be useful to some

Did some silver soldering today. No longer setting off the basement smoke alarm. The 4" fan in series with the 6" fan is moving more air for sure.

M
 
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Just curious, you are cracking a window or something to allow for makeup air?

Yup. Adjacent room window cracked with door to my work area left open. Also, there is a rather large furnace combustion air intake duct at the end of the room that is only plugged with fiberglass insulation (from original furnace installation). I'm sure that thing is letting air in as well.

M
 
With an in line duct fan, the motor is blocking flow; and both the plastic fan and motor can become coated with wax, dust, smoke etc.
I use a surplus squirrel cage fan(the motor is not in airstream, but fan has to be removed and cleaned every second year.)
 
Inline duct booster fans are junk...

Step up to a can fan that's actually designed as a stand alone duct fan and it'll close your work shop door when you turn it on... Well maybe not quite but they are designed to move air not just assist.... Amazon.ca is where to start your search.
 
I think the another important note is that the lead pot is relatively close to the fan intake. Mine is 12 inches directly below the intake. Another note is to have a sort of hood as I do shown in the pics in my previous post......it catches the fumes as they rises from the pot.
 
Little sneak peak of my exhaust fan setup. Still need to make a block end, put in a 8x8x1" filter rack, and flexible ducts to go to the lead pot and powder coating station. (mind the sloppy transition in the duct work, i was half in the bag and in a rush)
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Personally, I’m a big fan (har har) of range hoods. For $125 you can get a new one from a big-box lumber store that moves 200CFM of air and has task lights built in.

Dead nuts easy to instal, hard or flexible pipe doesn’t matter as the fan is moving enough air regardless.
 
Little sneak peak of my exhaust fan setup. Still need to make a block end, put in a 8x8x1" filter rack, and flexible ducts to go to the lead pot and powder coating station. (mind the sloppy transition in the duct work, i was half in the bag and in a rush)
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2018_01_27_21_51_56.jpg

This is looking great ! Please post progress pics. I would recommend a non combustible area on the counter where the casting takes place. I used a piece of 1'8 aluminum folded to form that space. An idea for your space is to build your whole counter space with two layers of 3/4 plywood then completely cover with a formed piece of sheet metal or aluminum.
 
This is looking great ! Please post progress pics. I would recommend a non combustible area on the counter where the casting takes place. I used a piece of 1'8 aluminum folded to form that space. An idea for your space is to build your whole counter space with two layers of 3/4 plywood then completely cover with a formed piece of sheet metal or aluminum.

Thanks, i will post a full build in the reloading section once it's done or close to being done. the bench will have 3/4" plywood screwed to the 2x4 frame then an ikea 1 1/8" thick counter top glued and screwed to the plywood. i'm debating adding a second 3/4" layer of plywood but i think it's already thick enough. In the casting area i will put a 2'x4' sheet of 28ga flat stock to protect the counter top mainly for minor lead spills. I'm still debating on making a booth for the powder coating but that can be built any time. If i do make one it will have a prefilter on the top where the exhaust will hook up.
 
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