Verify K98k 'byf' 44

This thread is full of fail, imho.
How many time is everyone screaming about bubba?!
Well sorry to say but he is here!
If you want t deer rifle, buy a deer rifle, don't ruin this
Nice milsurp.
Several people who know more then I have stated their opinions,
Which is what you wanted, the concensus.....don't do it to this rifle.
Sell it, to me! Haha
 
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This thread is full of fail, imho.
How many time is everyone screaming about budda?!
Well sorry to say but he is here!
If you want t deer rifle, buy a deer rifle, don't ruin this
Nice milsurp.
Several people who know more then I have stated their opinions,
Which is what you wanted, the concensus.....don't do it to this rifle.
Sell it, to me! Haha

You mean Bubba or Budda? lol

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gautama_Buddha
 
Shoot it as it is. If you can get MOA with the issue sights you know how to shoot well. Don't bubba it. Paul Mauser will haunt you.
 
I am by no means an expert, nor do i have my reference material at hand but off the top of my head:

The upper band should be milled and closed, yours is stamped. The buttplate should be cupped, yours is flat. The "f" is part of the serial number block.

Nice rifle, even if not totally original.

In a 1944 many variations can be encountered. Backbone of the Wehrmacht by Richard D. Law is a very good book on the subject.
 
COYOTE UGLY;
"Stock looks Yugo with the stamped S/N."

Not typical Yugo stamping, however if the action is removed from the stock and turned over the markings around the mag well should tell the story....
John
 
CLAVEN 2;
"FWIW, It's not Yugo. Yugo bolts are renumbered on the handle shaft, not the handle flat. "

Not always my friend, it would depend on which arsenal did the refurb, if that is what it is....

John
 
I'm going to join the Jihad Against Bubba here; it may not be a hugely significant priceless historical artifact, but it's still a historical artifact, and it'd be a shame to butcher it when you can get better accuracy out of a scoped Stevens...
 
First, the scope in question.

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Very well then, I asked for an opinion and I got it. The rifle remains untouched. In regards to the cheap drilled RC, this is what i have to contend with:


http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=550425&highlight=mauser

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564427&highlight=mauser

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=550454&highlight=mauser

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=551455&highlight=mauser

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=559468&highlight=mauser

Some people think just because its a K98k it's worth a fortune. According to this trend. I should scope the sucker and sell it for $1000.-! Relax, I kid of course:D
 
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R005, As I mentioned before, it's your rifle. IMHO it should be left as is.

There are many RC captures out there that will shoot MOA, I have two that will. One is perfect on the inside and has a pristine bore. The other has a 65% bore. Both are force matched and refinished in with Russian Red varnish.

If push comes to shove, they are correct variants as well. You're damned if you do and damned if you don't.
 
1. It is his rifle and whether you and I agree with it, he can do what he wants.

2. The stock has a flat butt plate (incorrect), it should be cupped or possibly even a Kriegsmodell stock (without the takedown disc). It is quite possible that the stock was replaced during the refurb because it originally had a Kriegsmodell stock and no takedown disc. I would agree that the numbering on the left butt is typical of an RC/Ukraniane refurb, I would lean more towards a Ukranian refurb stock as I have handled several of these that have identical markings. The Russians liked to grind down the left stock and then stamp the serial. The Ukranians saved a step and just stamped the serial on the left hand of the butt with no grinding.

3. ce (Sauer) and bcd (Gustloff) made LSR sniper rifles not byf (Mauser Obendorf). In my opinion, go ahead and make a sniper clone…don’t try to pass it off as original but go ahead and make a clone. However, do it correctly. In 1944 your options for Mauser are zf41 sniper (easy conversion no gunsmithing required/you can go with original or repro scope/mount) or High or Low turret sniper (both of which require gunsmithing). Earlier in the war Mauser produced a SSR but not in 1944.

4. The rifle is a matching refurb, either Czech or East German and has more value than an RC. Probably in the range of $600-1000 vs. $400-600 for an RC.

5. The rifle was re-blued, most rifles in 1944 wouldn’t have that type or blueing or would have a phosphate finish (phased in throughout 1944).

6. Stamped bands could be correct as they were phased in at the Mauser plant during 1944.

7. I would try to find a cupped buttplate stock, notch it for a zf41 and make a lovely and correct zf41 byf 44 sharp shooting rifle.

8. If you go for a turret mount go to ebay and there is a great re-furbished ‘cag’ scope for $800 and he also sells turret mountc. Check out www.k98k.com (that is the sellers website).
 
CLAVEN 2;
"FWIW, It's not Yugo. Yugo bolts are renumbered on the handle shaft, not the handle flat. "

Not always my friend, it would depend on which arsenal did the refurb, if that is what it is....

John

Fair enough John,

But a number of other things point to it not being Yugo. The stock doesn't have a BT3 cartouche on it, the barrel appears original while many yugos got M48 barrels turned back to K98k profile. Also, the stock numbering on a Yugo usually runs parallel to the buttplate, not perpendicular. This style looks either East German or Russian to me. The Yugoslavians also did not typically stamp the serial number suffix on the bolt when they renumbered them.

It could be Yugo, I suppose, but the evidence says East German to me. If you have some pointers to indicate Yugo heritage on this one, I think we'd all enjoy reading your evaluation of the piece.

Cheers :)
 
Don't do it...buy a good range-finder and spend some time learning what settings on the tangent sight work with your chosen load. If you can keep your shots on a 12" blind flange most of the time, it will work just fine. I almost sold my Norwegian Kar.98k .30-06 but I took it to the range and shot it. Now it is a never sell, never alter in any way. They did their homework when they rebarrelled and regulated that rifle.

You do know it shoots well after all, and you can shoot it. If eyesight deterioration from age is an issue, toss a scout mount on it.
 
Before embarking upon installing an LSR mount I would like to verify that I am not destroying a significant rifle. It has clear Nazi proofs on the barrel and receiver. It is a Mauser Werke AG Oberndorf am Neckar product. The receiver, bolt, trigger guard and stock match; possibly forced. Waffenamt 77( Steyr- Daimler-Puch 40-44) are on the bolt body and trigger guard. Waffenamt 135 ( Mauser Oberndorf 41-45) is on the receiver. The barrel is circularly stamped: 44D44. I have not been able to identify the small 'f' suffix after serial on the receiver. It is likely an arsenal rebuild; I just want to know if it was the Germans or the Russians. It shoots MOA. Any input would be appreciated.

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On the other hand, that scope would look sharp on the K98!
 
I meant bubba. lol, was on my phone.

I agree it is his rifle, but he did ask opinions.

What about the scope mount that replaces the rear sight? That way you could you could get the both of best worlds.
 
Great idea! You can get weaver mounts that can replace the tangent rear sight slide and screw into the rear sight base with no gun smithing required. I had one of these on my RC Kar98k when I bought it from a friend but I removed it and re-installed the tangent sight without any issues.
 
You would be crazy to touch that rifle, cut down anything, etc..... it's worth 800-1000$ no stamped out nazi markings, alot of good serial numbers,
 
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