Very hard to get shell down when resizing

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I am finding it very difficult to get the newly sized (full length) shell all the way down after sizing it. It seems to be right at the end of the upstroke of the handle (so when the shell has been resized and is almost all of the way out of the die). I have adjusted and tried to fine tune the damn thing with no luck. This happens to me with 3 different both RCBS and Lee full length sizing dies. I have cut down on the amount of Lube and I dont know if my press is finished or if there is something else I am doing wrong. The instructions state that the FLS die is supposed to pop when camming over but this feels like I am tearing the shell apart.
any help on this would be appreciated

Thanks
 
Put a little lube inside the neck of the cartridge. This will help the resizeing of the neck, and help preventing stretching the case. It doesn't take much. If you are using a lube pad just rub the case mouth across the pad,or a bit on your finger just rub across the mouth.
 
You can also spin a plain ol' #2 'lead' (actually graphite based) pencil inside the mouth of the case and not have to worry about any lube contaminating the powder.
 
Lee dies specifically state that the inside of the necks need to be lubricated. I don't have as much problem with other dies, but cleaning the neck or light lube might help,.
 
i had the same problem so i purchased a universal decapper and decaped before resizing. then i removed the decapping rod from the resizing die and i no longer have any problems. works good for rifle as i am in no rush anyway on a rainy day.
 
Use dry lube on expander ball or inside of case neck..MG34: Just a note: when you remove the decapping rod you are not expanding the case neck to the prescribed I.D. for bullet seating and this may cause a problem in some cases with bullet seating.
Bushing type sizing dies work in this manner but you can dictate the neck O.D. before seating.
 
I would agree that it sounds like you are having a hard time getting the expanding button.

RCBS sells a kit specifically for inside lubing. If you have a nylon bore brush in the same size, you've got essentially the same thing, less the handle. Roll it v lightly over a lube pad, in and out of the neck. Case lube should not compromise the primers.

Shootshellz' idea of a soft pencil is one I've not heard of but it makes a lot of sense. I'm going to be trying that myself.
 
When I resize, I throw all the brass in a ziplock bag that has some lyman quick spray and a dollop of Lee case lube in it. Shake it all around, a little bit ends up in the neck. I usually do 100 at at time. The first case might get an extra lubbing just to start.
That pencil in the neck sounds like a neat idea.
 
Cleaning/lubricating the inside of the necks should be an integral part of case preperation.
I have tried many methods.
One thing to remember is there should be no lubrication on the outside of the case on the shoulder. I say this because lubing the inside of the neck, should get no lube on the outside of the neck, or it will result in bulges on the shoulder of the case.
I do not like pushing the neck into the dry, mica type lubricating powder.
I like a bronze brush that fits the inside of the neck. It should have a handle on it, for ease of handling. Just brushing the inside of the neck helps, but a small roll of the brush over the lubricating pad, giving a tiny amount of lube to the brush, will lube the inside of the necks, will give almost effortless ease of pulling the sizing button out of the case. Also, there will not be enough lube left in the neck to effect the powder going through it.
 
tigrr said:
That pencil in the neck sounds like a neat idea.
Click to expand...


184460852_76bb58987b.jpg
 
I use powdered graphite to lube the inside of case necks.
Best way to apply it is to take some #6 shot and put it in a small tin or bottle, and put some powdered graphite in with it.
Shake it together until the shot is coated with graphite and then just dip the case neck in the shot and give it a quick twist.
Every once in a while, close the tin or bottle and shake it up again to redistribute graphite on the pellets.
Add graphite when needed.
Works great, and takes away that tough pull out of the case neck.
Will not affect the powder charge in any way.
Eagleye.
 
Eagleye said:
I use powdered graphite to lube the inside of case necks.
Best way to apply it is to take some #6 shot and put it in a small tin or bottle, and put some powdered graphite in with it.
Shake it together until the shot is coated with graphite and then just dip the case neck in the shot and give it a quick twist.
Every once in a while, close the tin or bottle and shake it up again to redistribute graphite on the pellets.
Add graphite when needed.
Works great, and takes away that tough pull out of the case neck.
Will not affect the powder charge in any way.
Eagleye.
Click to expand...

Another good idea. Thanks
 
Yup, I agree with everyone else. Sounds like not enough lube inside the case mouth.

I use this "Case Graphiter". Cleans the worst of the carbon out, and adds a thin film of graphite powder to the inside of the neck.

Not sure who makes them now though ... this one is a Bonanza that was purchased 40+ years ago in the late 60's.

graphiter.jpg
 
Last edited:
H4831 said:
I like a bronze brush that fits the inside of the neck. It should have a handle on it, for ease of handling. Just brushing the inside of the neck helps, but a small roll of the brush over the lubricating pad, giving a tiny amount of lube to the brush, will lube the inside of the necks, will give almost effortless ease of pulling the sizing button out of the case. Also, there will not be enough lube left in the neck to effect the powder going through it.
Click to expand...

Well there you go...even an old dog like me can pick up something new!
I do the same with a brush & a handle but never thought of rolling it in graphite :rolleyes:
Thanks
 
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