Virgin loader has disfunction

T

Tlake

New member
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
18   0   0
Location
Pickering on
New to reloading and I am using a lee pro1000 and my bullets are not ejecting but the are putting the hammer back. They Will eject by hand but using a semi auto this is not good. I am reloading 9mm my gun is a Cz 75 P07 duty. Now has a total of 150 factory rounds and 20 hand jobs. I am using IMR sr4756 (that's what they gave me at the closest sporting good store. I am using copper coat bullets 115g and I am use 4.9to 5.0 for powder max being listed as 5.2
BUT this is for lead bullets 115g there is no listing for this powder in anything but lead bullets at 115g. I am think this should not cause such an issue so maybe my die that seats the bullet was set up wrong crimping it to tight. I can not make a few and test them to far to range to close to neighbors (jk) . Could this be the problem apon checking my die it did seem the case was going a bit deep into it. Or is the powder the issue.
New question d:h:d:h::confused:
I am going to start reloading for my 45 auto what's the best bullet weight (dont want to use lead) and powder to use for low cost plinking.
Thank you
Tony
 
Last edited:
According my data search , the overall length for the 115 grain FMJ should be 1.10
Starting powder charge is 4,5 grains of SR4756. As long as your crimp is not to much then I would say that you can go up some on the powder.
Do a search for your load . I did & came up with the data fairly quickly.

Be careful with loading 9mm. Pressures can go up very quickly .
 
I thought you had to be licenced plastic surgeon to be a virgin reloader. I hear it becoming a very popular procedure in some cultures.
 
Thanks for replys
Over all length is at 1.13 ~ I have the lee data and the hodgdon load data sheets, which I am following just not for fmj but lead which is the only bullet listed in that weight. Also using lee micrometer adj. charge bar and it weighed in correctly. Looks like it may be a crip issue
Also I forgot to mention when shooting it put the hammer back but only about 1/2 the time and I did not take note if it was full or half cocked the next shell did not leave mag or jamb so I am think half cocked
 
Last edited:
I have the same problem with my glock and my friend told me to take the crimp off, it is not needed for 9mm. haven't made up any new ones yet, maybe this week.
 
Too tight a crimp on cartridges like the 9x19 or the .45 ACP will cause problems. Such rounds headspace on the front of the case. A significant crimp will allow the round to go too deep into the chamber. Not only does that mean the firing pin often doesn't get a good hit on the primer (inconsistent ignition) but it can also raise the pressure.

All the crimp should do for such cartridges is take the bell out of the case mouth. What holds the bullets in place for such rounds is not the crimp, but the squeezed-down case itself, that squeeze from the first die you use, the resizing die.

As to your problem with ejection and such (assuming that the pistol is properly worked in, cleaned and lubricated), it sounds to me like the rounds are not putting out enough oomph to cycle the action properly. I would suggest you switch powders and try again. Some 9mms can be fussy. The cost is not that much.

As to your cheap .45 question, you've kinda painted yourself into a corner. You want cheap, but don't want lead. The problem is that (assuming you already have the brass), something like 80-90% of the cost of each reload is going to be the bullet and jacketed bullets are always more expensive, by at least a factor of two. I can get lead bullets for a .45 ACP here for 16¢ apiece as opposed to 35¢ each for the cheapest FMJ.

If you want cheap loads, go for cast lead. They are the cheapest option.

If you want jacketed bullets, but still cheap, then you should find the cheapest ones available in your supplier and go to your reloading manual to chose the loads to suit.
 
You have to experiment with 9mm. First I would add a bit more powder, maybe up to max. If that didn't work go back to the original powder drop and add more crimp. If that doesn't work maybe the gun is new and tight. Oil the daylights out of it. Try everything all over again.
 
ok thanks for info, i will try a few options, gun is new but clean will oil it up a bit more
1 lighter crimp
2 more powder
3 ligher crimp with more powder
4 change powder if the above 3 option dont work
Will probable change powder anyways

Also thank you ATOM for answering my .45 question. Heard that lead made cleaning my gun alot more work. thanks again to all
 
Tlake said:
Also thank you ATOM for answering my .45 question. Heard that lead made cleaning my gun alot more work. thanks again to all
Click to expand...

No problem.

From my experience, leading only becomes a problem as velocities increase. I've fired a lot of lead from my .45 in a low-power target round and have never had an issue. I suppose the barrel would have something to do with it, of course; some would be more likely than others.
 
K as far as crimping 9mm goes I'll tell you what i tell everyone. Do not blindly reduce crimp. Your in for a world of hurt if you do not perform some basic safety here with your gun and bullets.

You need to apply the proper amount of crimp required for the individual gun/bullet combination you have.

Depending on your feed ramp, you may need a firm crimp simply to ensure you do not get excessive push back of the bullet into the case. 9mm generates a lot of pressure very quickly and you need to be very careful with it.

For instance my 9mm needs a good crimp since the feed ramp on the barrel is so aggressive. My 45 needs almost nothing to feed properly.

Make up a dummy (no primer or powder) and start with a light crimp. Measure and record the OAL. Load the mag and rack it. Remove and try again. Remove and re-measure. If the OAL has not reduced beyond what you feel comfortable with your good to go. If you see noticable bullet push back, then you need to make another dummy and crimp it more. Try and try again in order to determine the proper crimp your bullet/gun combo needs. This is the safest way to learn what your gear needs.

Be careful, be safe, and have fun!
 
jawsman said:
K as far as crimping 9mm goes I'll tell you what i tell everyone. Do not blindly reduce crimp. Your in for a world of hurt if you do not perform some basic safety here with your gun and bullets.

You need to apply the proper amount of crimp required for the individual gun/bullet combination you have.

Depending on your feed ramp, you may need a firm crimp simply to ensure you do not get excessive push back of the bullet into the case. 9mm generates a lot of pressure very quickly and you need to be very careful with it.

For instance my 9mm needs a good crimp since the feed ramp on the barrel is so aggressive. My 45 needs almost nothing to feed properly.

Make up a dummy (no primer or powder) and start with a light crimp. Measure and record the OAL. Load the mag and rack it. Remove and try again. Remove and re-measure. If the OAL has not reduced beyond what you feel comfortable with your good to go. If you see noticable bullet push back, then you need to make another dummy and crimp it more. Try and try again in order to determine the proper crimp your bullet/gun combo needs. This is the safest way to learn what your gear needs.

Be careful, be safe, and have fun!
Click to expand...

Making up dummy rounds is good advice.

That said, a taper crimp really doesn't put that much holding force on a bullet. If the cases are properly resized in the first place, the bullet will be firmly in place with the bell still there - try it and see for yourself. If they aren't properly resized, no amount of taper crimp is going to hold the bullets steady.
 
Dummy rounds that suits me lol great advice I will start there and move forward And recheck my resizing try loads at 5 (max being 5.2 in the data charts) and hope this solves my issue. Thanks again for all the great info Judy need to be able to get to a range an try out the new loads
Tony
 
OK got the problem fixed, changed a few things

A: lightened the crimp (used the dummy method to test this - worked really well)
B: expanded the neck a wee bit more (bullet was not sitting down in neck hardly at all)
C: a bit more powder in the load ( not to the max)

I am also started to change powder to titegroup, uses less per load and seems to work a bit better.

Big thanks to all who helped out with suggestions and ideas


MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
 
If I had the problem you described I would add 0.3gr more powder. Crimp action should just be enough yo take the bell mouth off.


TiteGroup is a good powder. The only negative is that it is fast and not much is required. Easy to double charge and not notice until the Kaboom....

I shoot a number of 45s and use 231, Titegroup and 7625. 99% are loaded with cast lead bullets and so long as I do't load too hot, there is not much leading. A few passes of a bronze brush does the job as I put guns back in the locker.


Leading is a function of high velocity. 45 is not hi velocity, so is a perfect caliber for lead bulllets.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom