vz 24 and winchester 1897.

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cupar1

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I have a vz 24 serial E37 7### J4 meaning it's roughly a model in the 880000+ model range, made in 37. Just curious how many were made? It's not an early model but I've read most were made for Romania and have a R designation. Does this mean there were 2 million+?

Also I have a 1897 made in 1903 winchester with a thicker then hairline split in the hand guard that appears to have been glued shut around 1903 lol, no idea when but a long time before I was born. It has alot of surface rust spots. Is it worth restoring it's aesthetics or just prevent further damage? Not worried about repair cost just curious if it'd make it better for historical sake. This isn't a early model either I believe 1903 serial numbers are already 200, 000+
 
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for the 1887 it would be easiest to put a bit of gun oil on the rust and try just wiping it. Hard to saw without pictures. Please don't wire wheel, sand or abrasively try and temove it. Some fine brass wool and oil would do wonders without hurting whatever finish is present
 
just surface rust, the best thing to do is get it off my dad's farm in his basement in the freakin flood plain. Into my place where I can have less then 90+% humidity.
 
Lots of 97's still in use on the Cowboy circuit with cracks here and there and very little finish left, they aren't scarce in a collector sense and have very little collector value unless a very special factory order or an un-bubba'd trench gun. While they do clean up very nicely when re-finished, the increase in value won't increase as much as the restoration will cost, as others have suggested give'r a wipe-down to neutralize the rusting and put her to work. One more suggestion, and this is only my own thoughts and considerations to the age of a 97, I only use target level ammo in all of mine.
 
I don't know why guys still recommend using the steel wool with oil. Using it with oil allows the rust to act as a grinding compound, aggressively deteriorating the condition of remaining finish. Use the steel wool dry and blow the rust away. When you are done you can re apply oil to the rifle and put it away.
 
flying pig said:
I don't know why guys still recommend using the steel wool with oil. Using it with oil allows the rust to act as a grinding compound, aggressively deteriorating the condition of remaining finish. Use the steel wool dry and blow the rust away. When you are done you can re apply oil to the rifle and put it away.
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I agree, it seems like most guys are afraid to try this. Dry steel wool is the way to go.

Be sure the wool is super fine, and you get some oil on it when you are done.
 
fat tony said:
Why do people cut the barrels to 20" and never think of putting a full length magazine tube extension on them while leaving the barrel alone?
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Because we don't need more magazine space, the sport only allows total of two shells at a time to keep pump & double shotgun users on an even keel...and a 20" swings better around stage props that our sport is usually blessed with
 
fingers284 said:
Because we don't need more magazine space, the sport only allows total of two shells at a time to keep pump & double shotgun users on an even keel...and a 20" swings better around stage props that our sport is usually blessed with
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Also 20" was a production length barrel for police riot guns and for military use. WWI "Trench Broom" 1887's were, essentially, production guns with the barrel cut to 20", and a heat-shield/bayo-lug add on kit. Which is why Winchester sent both regular and take-down versions into service - they just kept the same production lines rolling, slapped on the heat-shield kit, and sent them to the military instead of the local gun shops.

MXJ20-Z-O1-O.jpg
 
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