VZ58: Washing the bolt and pin in hot water?

S

superlative

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
46   0   0
Location
Calgary
I've read many threads on washing their rifle with hot water after using corrosive ammo, but nothing I've found yet addresses this specific question: for the CZ858, VZ58 is it okay to submerge (rinse) the bolt and firing pin in water, or pour hot water over the bolt and through the firing pin chamber? I believe the bolt is chromed so no problem, but I don't know what the firing pin is made out of, and what are the implications of getting it wet. Can the firing pin corrode? I believe it doesn't need to be oiled either right?

So in summary:
1) Can the firing pin/chamber be dunked in water?
2) What is the firing pin made out of?
3) The firing pin doesn't need to be oiled right?

Thanks!
 
Dude just use brake clean and g96. And oil everything. Your clearly a little OCD perfectionist about the hole thing. Cz/VZ 58 is a crude machine.
 
I pour boiling water on mine and rinse the firing pin and extractor. Then I will usually take it apart, dry everything and give it a quick wipe with frog lube or g96. Still looks new. For the extra 5 minutes of cleaning, it's worth it to me.
 
mattcwc said:
Dude just use brake clean and g96. And oil everything. Your clearly a little OCD perfectionist about the hole thing. Cz/VZ 58 is a crude machine.
Click to expand...

I am OCD about rust, yes.

Now - about the G96 - do you mean just wipe down the bolt face? Wipe in the pin hole? Please elaborate. Many people advise not to put oil down the pin hole as it attracts crud.
 
Zesty said:
I pour boiling water on mine and rinse the firing pin and extractor. Then I will usually take it apart, dry everything and give it a quick wipe with frog lube or g96. Still looks new. For the extra 5 minutes of cleaning, it's worth it to me.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
If you're concerned about rust, use the water (near boiling) and follow it with a good amount of WD40 - WD40 isn't a lubricant and will flow out of the bolt assembly if you put the bolt on one end. The 'WD' stands for Water Dispersant, that's what it's designed for.
 
I use non chlorinated (fumes) brake cleaner and saturate the bolt and carrier with it's spray. (While wearing nitrate gloves)

The brake cleaner strips the bolt of ALL dirt & residue leaving the metal extremely dry and clean. You don't really want oil on your bolt assembly when using corrosive, it will only help gunk things up IMO. I put a small dab under the bolt and along the side were it slides inside the receiver. Just for friction reasons.
 
Last edited:
I oil every firing pin I own. Its only a problem if you're too f**king lazy to ever clean it again. If you leave it for 20 years you might have problems. When its oiled it will not rust and you don't have to take it apart after every range trip. A very light film is all it takes and once you check it periodically and see how little crap gets in there you will see that its just another internet wives tale. If you run it dry then you need to clean it every time. I've done this on more free floating pins than I can remember and put well over 500 rds thru each without cleaning. Every few months I'll clean and re-oil it just cause. I've yet to find one that actually needed cleaning after being oiled for hundreds of rounds.
 
supernova said:
I oil every firing pin I own. Its only a problem if you're too f**king lazy to ever clean it again. If you leave it for 20 years you might have problems. When its oiled it will not rust and you don't have to take it apart after every range trip. A very light film is all it takes and once you check it periodically and see how little crap gets in there you will see that its just another internet wives tale. If you run it dry then you need to clean it every time. I've done this on more free floating pins than I can remember and put well over 500 rds thru each without cleaning. Every few months I'll clean and re-oil it just cause. I've yet to find one that actually needed cleaning after being oiled for hundreds of rounds.
Click to expand...

Agreed
I take the hole gun apart after a trip to the range, I clean everything with brake clean (brake clean destroys all) than put it all back together oil the barrel and spray g96 in every other part and I'm not shy with it. Any extra will just run out of the gun sitting in the safe. If it has lube on it it wont rust. Some will say I over lube but I've never had trouble.
 
Brake clean works great and yes lube it up with some G96 or any other light coating of oil.
Also ensure it passes the rattle test. Meaning take the bolt in your hand and shake it back and forth and you should here the firing pin rattle back and forth.
 
supernova said:
I oil every firing pin I own. Its only a problem if you're too f**king lazy to ever clean it again. If you leave it for 20 years you might have problems. When its oiled it will not rust and you don't have to take it apart after every range trip. A very light film is all it takes and once you check it periodically and see how little crap gets in there you will see that its just another internet wives tale....
Click to expand...

X2 from me.

Also, remember the extractor and spring.
I "thoroughly" washed, dried and oiled my bolt the first time only to find on my next cleaning (luckily only a couple days later), that I had not removed all of the moisture from that area and the spring was showing the first signs of rust.
Now it's just some Ed's Red for the bolt and the usual boiling water / WD for the rest.
 
Wolf@TS said:
X2 from me.

Also, remember the extractor and spring.
I "thoroughly" washed, dried and oiled my bolt the first time only to find on my next cleaning (luckily only a couple days later), that I had not removed all of the moisture from that area and the spring was showing the first signs of rust.
Now it's just some Ed's Red for the bolt and the usual boiling water / WD for the rest.
Click to expand...

which spring started showing rust? Thanks.
 
The extractor spring and plunger.
It's a pain in the arse to get at (at least for my sausage fingers), but will retain moisture if water is used.
 
After you do the boiling water, take the bolt apart and lay the small parts on a paper towel to let them dry or shoot them with g96. Clean the rest of the rifle, and then before putting the bolt back together, jam a qtip into the extractor spring hole on the bolt to get any excess water. A qtip fits in there perfectly. Same with the firing pin hole (from the rear).

I have serious cleaning ocd, but everything I'm my safe is rust free so far.
 
i would be very conscientious about cleaning your cz after firing corrosive ammo. i have used the hot water method to months and ended up with some rust in my chamber. it could be my technique, but i am very thorough and dry everything with compressed air. i don't like having to put oil in my chamber, but i do use a little after cleaning from corrosive shooting. i know everyone sais hot water neutralizes the salts, but i think you need something else to be really sure. its not an sks, give it some love
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom