Walther P1

Horrible.

Had a P1 and a TT33. Kept the TT33 and ditched the P1, that's how bad the P1 was.

Other users may have a different take.

M
 
Actually, I quite like my P1. Trigger is 4 lb 3 oz. Changed the grips to WW2 ribbed since they fit my hands better. No experience with T33's, so I can't comment on a comparison.
 
P1 is a good surplus gun.
P1 is not worth more then 299.99$.
IMHO P1 is a shooting gun & not really a collectable gun.
Thus collect a nice P38 & then buy a P1 to shoot a P38 feeling gun.
finally getting in the P38/P1 gun is a good step towards beretta 92/96/98 family gun.
 
Anyone buy a surplus Walther P1? How is it?

I have my Walther P1 for nearly 3 years with slightly over 1800 shots through it. I bought it on impulse as a Bundeswehr surplus service pistol, in essence brand new, production Feb. 1977 (pick). I paid slightly over $400 for it. Trigger pull is between 5.9 and 6.6 lbs, typical for a military pistol. It is not easy handgun to shoot. Requires an utmost concentration during shooting. At 7 yards my best grouping from 15 strings, 5 shots each string, was 1.25” and the worst 3.5”. At longer distance, like 20 yards, grouping increases to 4-6” and fliers appeared more frequently. Strangely enough, I shoot the P1 better when I’m wearing shooting gloves. The P1, at least mine, is extremely reliable. I’ve been shooting all the varieties of 115 and 124gr ammo without any hiccup whatsoever. It likes being very lightly oiled. After 1800 shots the pistol still looks immaculate. For some people the downside might be only 8+1 rounds capacity.
Would I recommend the P1 as a first handgun? Absolutely not. However, it’s a good pistol for refining shooting skills for more experienced shooters. If someone learns to shoot the P1 well then that person will shoot any other pistol without a problem.

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The P1 was the first pistol I shot when I was in the Bundeswehr.
Later I purchased one (or was it 2) just for nostalgic reasons.

It is well made, but there are much better shooting guns in my safe now.
The one thing I remember, the brass eject to the left and forms a neat little pile.
Now if the gun would group as well as the ejected brass pile, then we would have a great shooter. :)
 
The very first pistol I bought was a p1. I got it as I couldn't find a p38 at the time and wanted a German surplus pistol
It is reliable and functions good but they shoot low for some reason so it's hard to get good groups with them
I don't recommend them as a first pistol, something like a S&W m&p would be a better choice
 
My P1 ejects to the left, so would be good for a left handed shooter. My August 1943 BYF P38 ejects mostly on top of my head.

I finally found out how the P1 holster works after doing some research. Goes on the left side and you pull the gun and holster down when you open the flap. Waist belt goes inside the flap of the holster, so quite different from other set-ups.
 
When I started shooting, I bought 3 handguns off the bat, TT33, P1 and M1895 Nagant. I shot a lot of reloads and factory ammo. TT33 fell apart after 2000 rds of hot czech surplus. P1 had close to 8K when locking block cracked. I had to replace it with WW2 locking block and shot about 300 rds and sold it. Nagant is still chugging along with 4 inch groups at 25 meters with reloads. I still have P1 from 1980 production that was literally never fired. Still cool surplus for under 500$, brand new Walther, can't complain.
 
Quote Originally Posted by 05RAV View Post
What was the production year of your Walther P1?


I asked because the cracking of locking block for that year of production seems to me a bit unusual. Throughout the years, starting approximately from the late 1960's Walther introduced a number of improvements to the P1 like reinforced slide, frame (steel hex bolt), hammer, sights etc. They also changed the composition of steel and design for the locking block. I'd assume that your 78 production model should have all these goodies. Apparently, it slipped somehow through the cracks and the block was not to the higher standard. Mine is 2/77 so I'll see how it works for the next 6,000 shots. Now I have 1,800 and the locking block is immaculate. I've read somewhere about a case of cracked locking block and since then I inspect it very thoroughly with a magnifying glass after each shooting.
 
I asked because the cracking of locking block for that year of production seems to me a bit unusual. Throughout the years, starting approximately from the late 1960's Walther introduced a number of improvements to the P1 like reinforced slide, frame (steel hex bolt), hammer, sights etc. They also changed the composition of steel and design for the locking block. I'd assume that your 78 production model should have all these goodies. Apparently, it slipped somehow through the cracks and the block was not to the higher standard. Mine is 2/77 so I'll see how it works for the next 6,000 shots. Now I have 1,800 and the locking block is immaculate. I've read somewhere about a case of cracked locking block and since then I inspect it very thoroughly with a magnifying glass after each shooting.
Well, everything you said above is correct for new P1. My 12/78 was refurbished in 94. Locking block was electropenciled to fit, so who knows what they used for refurbishment. I would not worry about round counts, It may last a while or break in some weird fashion. That's why Germans called them 8 warning shots and one aimed throw.
 
I've had one for several years.... it's a strong "mediocre" pistol even for the $299 I paid. For $500+ or whatever these retail for now you can find something much better.
 
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