I got a membership to the local gun club, so I finally decided to bite the bullet and get myself a pistol. I'm in the market for a Walther P38 (Either wartime or post-war) in good condition, and I'm wondering how much I can expect to pay for one.
Walther P38 Value
- Thread starter UCSPanther
- Start date
Either.
Wartime models would be okay, but I would be looking for either a late 30's or early '40s in that case. The postwar ones would probably not be as worn or battered as the wartime ones.
Also, can you please tell me the difference between the P38 and the P1. I suspect one of the differences is that the P1 has a proper safety, while the original P38 does not.
- Location
- Thunder Bay ON Canada
P38 was made with both steel and alloy frame, used by the military. The P1 was issued to police, and has an alloy frame. I bought a P1, and asked about them on the forum, and everyone told me they were crap. Luckily I took it to the range before I threw it in the trash, and it turns out the internet crowd was wrong.
- Location
- Thunder Bay ON Canada
Yup, tradex, that's where I got mine when they were on sale near christmas. The other neat thing I like about my P1 is that it strips faster and easier than any other pistol I've had other than maybe the desert eagle. Those krauts are clever, I tell you.
Steel and alloy frames are not the only difference between P1 and P38. One is also about $1000 more expensive than the other, if you find one.
I have never owned one, but I have heard that P1 alloy frames are prone to cracks, if put to work extensively.
I have never owned one, but I have heard that P1 alloy frames are prone to cracks, if put to work extensively.
I am not an expert on the P38/P1, but I know the alloy framed guns have a thicker frame than the steel guns. Some of the steel framed P38's are also prone to cracking. (We have both, but stored in different locations so side by side comparison is a bit difficult).
A suggestion is to get a postwar P1 or P38 with alloy frame, but it must have the hexagonal pins across the frame. The hex pins were put in place to minimize stress on the alloy frames by distributing the load/stress over a greater area. It was the early postwar alloy frames with round pins that had cracking problems. I think Tradex guns have the hex pins but you should confirm.
Many of the guns prone to cracking were because of +P or +P+ surplus ammo use. Shoot regular or slightly lower velocity reloads and you are going to be fine for tens of thousands of rounds.
I do recall hearing about reinforcement pins being added to P1 at some point (above the trigger group?). Could it be the same as you are describing, i.e. hexagonal pins? Either way, if it works, and that is what Trade Ex has, then I will consider ordering one from them. I really like these pistols. I have not done it yet because I tend to shoot everything I have to its limits and P1's weak frame rummer didn't do it for me.
I wonder if anybody can post pictures of regular P1 and Re-enforced and/or hexagonal pin P1s or refer us to a website, so it can be compared to Trade Ex and Frontier P1s.
I wonder if anybody can post pictures of regular P1 and Re-enforced and/or hexagonal pin P1s or refer us to a website, so it can be compared to Trade Ex and Frontier P1s.
- Location
- Thunder Bay ON Canada
If that's a concern for you, just buy a stripped frame at the same time, tradex has them for 20 bucks.
