Wanting to build something from the ground up.

Appreciate the helpful responses.
Some people just don't understand that someone needs to start somewhere in order to learn.
Maybe I'll just consider a 5.56 action opposed to the Wylde, maybe cheaper too??

I am shooting 55 FMJ 223, so definitely not a heavy shot at all.

I was considering the bolt action as it just felt more precise, but I could be wrong.
 
https://www. gotenda.com/product/consignment-bcl-mrx-bison-ranger-5-56x45-bolt-action-rifle-16-barrel-excellent/

Not affiliated with Tenda... space in address so not a hot link.

Blast away, have a ton of fun. Get the chassis feel with some good looks. If it was available, not break the bank. Do they shoot great? not in your life.... but considering the ammo, it's just fine.

I am sure others like this are available in the used market. If running 55gr FMJ, I would definitely not bother with anything 'custom'

If however, you truly want to get into precision/accuracy shooting, sell the 5.56, consider a basic reloading kit.... get a basic factory rifle with a "223 REM" chamber with the potential to shoot sub MOA... and then learn.

https://www. gotenda.com/product/remington-783-hb-t-223-rem-24-kryptek-fde-cerakote-r85897/

Lots of other good factory HBs to choose from that can shoot sub MOA with handloads. As you get better reloading and shooting, that same rifle will get tighter groups. Under 1/2 MOA at 100yds is possible with some factory rifles.

You have received a TON of great advice already in your 2 posts (likely not what you wanted to hear). Learn from the journey many of us have made... or not

If you need to forge your own path, by all means... but then you get to relearn all the "potholes" again.

It's your journey... do as you see fit.

Jerry
 
A “build” is a very broad term in reality..

A person who buys a factory rifle and makes some upgrades to the stock, trigger or a barrel swap themselves is still in a round about way a build..

No different than the same person buying a donor or barrelled rifle/action and sending it off to a gunsmith to have the same done. It’s still a build.

Call it whatever moniker you’d like - Build, Assembly or Customization.. They all mean or end up being the same thing really when you get down to the nitty-gritty of it.

So go forth.. d*mn the torpedos and make it what you want or expect of it. In the end your vision of what it should be is all that matters.
 
Appreciate the helpful responses.
Some people just don't understand that someone needs to start somewhere in order to learn.
Maybe I'll just consider a 5.56 action opposed to the Wylde, maybe cheaper too??

I am shooting 55 FMJ 223, so definitely not a heavy shot at all.

I was considering the bolt action as it just felt more precise, but I could be wrong.
Trying to clarify here…. Is your ammo marked .223 REM or 5.56? Or do you have both types?

FWIW, I have a 7-twist .223 barrel with a Wylde chamber for my practice PRS rifle. It’s a 24” Patriot Valley Arms.

It will easily shoot 5-shot groups under 1/2” with 69grain SMK. I also have a bunch of Federal American Eagle 55grain .223 bulk pack. Down to 500 rounds left.

Like Jerry said, this stuff doesn’t shoot well. It’s around 1.5” at 100 yards. I’m using it for PRS training and set up 2” circles for positional shooting practice off wobbly barricades. It isn’t worth trying to shoot tiny groups because it cannot do that.

I’m going to practice with that last 500 rounds, and then the brass will be used for longer bullets that are much more accurate.
 
Appreciate the helpful responses.
Some people just don't understand that someone needs to start somewhere in order to learn.
Maybe I'll just consider a 5.56 action opposed to the Wylde, maybe cheaper too??

I am shooting 55 FMJ 223, so definitely not a heavy shot at all.

I was considering the bolt action as it just felt more precise, but I could be wrong.
What’s your actual end goal?

You can shoot ftr with a 223 rem. Do a bit of googling on what kind of components guys are using. Don’t worry about the wylde chamber thing. You just need enough freebore to load your bullets long and those bullets will probably need to be 80 grains or heavier and you need about 7” twist to stabilize them.

I’ll see if I can find a pic of my gun but it went like this

I bought a 29 inch barrelled action from ks arms with a 1-7.5” twist. I put a jewell br trigger on it, installed the scope and I bedded into an mdt acc chassis.
 
Its in a different chassis since this pic was taken but it shoots 1” groups at 300m. I try and stick with remington 700 stuff so all of my chassis and triggers are interchangeable. And thats Jerrys mpod under there
IMG_2004.jpegIMG_7560.jpeg
 
Well, that all sounds pretty darn good to me. If I can shoot 1-2" gaps at 300m... That's all I would ask for

I have a mixture of 223 and 5.56 brass. I load based on 223 data, and as I said before I load them pretty light as it is 'just for fun'. It is shooting with people who don't shoot also. So definitely not something we need the top of the line. Just hopes to even hit the target at times! By no means would we get into competition shooting
 
I’ve put together a couple and learned a lot in the process. Tons of information out there and a ton of guys on this forum with a wealth of experience and information. I really enjoy the hunt for parts and pieces to bring everything together. Take your time to research and learn and figure out what you want.
 
If you already reload and use 55gr FMJs, I would get some Hornady 55gr SP. These are one of the least expensive bullets that can shoot 1/2 MOA or better. Light load (around starting loads from reliable manf data) using a fast/med burn powder for the 223 and enjoy (around 3000fps is the typical start load). Golf balls at 200yds will be a thing.

Speer 50gr TNT is another gem but seasonal in availability.

We have shot the 55gr sps out to 1000yds for S&G's. 600yds on a 10" gong will put a smile on your face. Want to really start learning, tune for a 6" gong at 600yds. If that gets a bit boring, now is the time for a match barrel.

If you have a true sub MOA factory rifle/ammo combo, that is hitting milk jugs at 1000yds if you can dial the wind. Spend the money on ammo and put lead downrange.

12 to 8 twist will work so it really doesn't matter. What does is a quality heavy barrel that can sustain consistency after a number of shots. Sporter barrels can work (what is currently on my Rem 783) but if shooting with friends, waiting for a barrel to cool is not much fun.

Old Savage 12FV can be superb shooters for little money. Same goes for Rem 700 but these carry a premium price. Tikkas, Howas can also work great. My fave is the Rem 783. All of these factory actions can be rebarreled to make an even tighter shooting rig. You don't need a custom action (unless you just want one for personal reasons). Look at what can be 'customised' down the road if you still want to dress it up. All of these actions have aftermarket support... some more then others.

for glass, lean you to a 6-24X range. Doesn't need to cost a fortune but better glass, nice eye relief and a comfy eye box is helpful if many shooters are using the set up. Got a great scope on sale if you are interested.

I can also recommend my bipod as pictured above. Super easy to use and rock solid.

The biggest gain in performance based on what you have said and want will be making good ammo. Pick a rifle, bed it well, load for what the barrel tells you it likes. The performance will exceed what you think is possible.

Jerry
 
If it were my money I would just go buy a 8 twist Tikka varmint and with the 4g you have left over from not building a full custom id buy some really good glass for it.
x2...and if you get bored with it or decide to upgrade to a custom you'll be able to recoup a good chunk of the purchase price. With a custom you'll get 50-60% of the cost of the parts.
 
I want a simple 204 ruger left hand bolt with adjustable iron sights ( and of course able to optic it ) in some kind of green synthetic streamlined stock…… basically just a left handed green rem 700 bolt gun and irons.Hinged floor plate / mag

Hahahah. How i do this ?
 
I am considering this. I was looking at the Tikka t3x ace. More of a tactical style rifle,
Is the varmint the same action in the t3x ace?
Buy a used one as a donor. Play with it then build it how you like. Re-barrel and put the chassis on it.. glass is a separate discussion IMHO.
 
There was one thing I was reading on and it's about the barrels getting very hot after shooting 3-4 rounds?
This will be a target firearm 99% of the time. So I should be looking for the heavy barrel?
 
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