Washing off case lube?

S

stephen492

Regular
Rating - 100%
41   0   0
Location
Canada
I am newish to reloading and have done a few hundred rifle rounds now (.308 and 6.5CM). I have always used Hornady One-Shot spray on case lube and have never washed the cases after full length resizing. I've yet to have any issues but have read a few threads that reference washing your cases after resizing to get the lube off.

Is the washing off of case lube recommended?

Does it depend on the lube type?

Is there any danger in not cleaning it off?
 
I have read somewhere (I forget if it was in reloading manuals, or elsewhere), that some types of lubes (like petroleum-based) can degrade the powder if the lube gets inside the case. I would also guess its not good to have lube in the primer pocket.

Lee states that their water-based lube, that they instruct be used in the case mouth to lube the expander ball, will not interfere with powder burn if residue gets inside the case. The Lee lube dries quickly so there is no water remaining.

I started with Lee lube, and just wiped the outside of the case with a rag. But later I switched to using lanolin and isopropyl alcohol lube mixture shaken with the cases in a plastic bag. Lanolin dries tacky and bonds to the brass. So after sizing I wash the brass in dishwashing detergent, rinse, lay out to dry, then tumble in dry media. Even after washing that lanolin leaves a slight tacky layer, so tumbling is essential to get it off.
 
Last edited:
I used to just wipe the excess lube off after re-sizing with a cloth.
If I used to heavy a roll on the pad I dented a few cases (in the early learning stages) .
The excess lube wouldnt escape fast enough from the die via the small hole at top of the die.
As for washing (cases) them I never did.
More knowledgeable folks will be along soon.
Rob
 
OP - is odd that the container of the commercial product that you bought does not already tell you what you want to know? I am very old fashioned, I guess - I use a lube pad and RCBS CaseLube-2. Bottle says it is water soluble. Instructions on back say to "Wipe cases clean after sizing". Since I use the Lee case gauge system, is my practice to lube and size cases, then each into the Lee holder and spinner - trim and chamfer, then hold a damp rag against case and spin a few seconds. On to the next one. For some batches, when in a rush, I did nothing - used them as they were dried - did not seem to cause issue that I found. Previous to lube and sizing, cases were de-primed manually or in a de-priming die - then the batch into a wet stainless pin tumbler. Might be a whole lot of busy work, but makes me feel that I am doing something useful.
 
I use one shot and it says it’s safe with powder so I don’t worry about. I just wipe lightly with a cloth so it’s not greasy to handle after sizing. Obviously some must get inside the case as well. Never fussed too much with it and I have loaded thousands of rounds (mostly .308) with no issue.
 
Potashminer said:
OP - is odd that the container of the commercial product that you bought does not already tell you what you want to know?
Click to expand...

It does say safe with powder which is why I haven't washed and part of the reason that I am asking. Washing cases sounds like a bit of a PITA so I think i'll just keep using this lube. Maybe a light wipe as suggested above. Thanks for all the answers.
 
Wipe of your cases with a cloth and alcohol, I buy it by the 4 litre jug and it lasts a long time, dries fast too.
 
I use LEE lube, and a hot water bath get's it all off.
I tried the home made lanoline lube and it was a pain to get it all of
 
I have read that some types of lube , if left on the case.may case greater pressure on the bolt face.
I use Lee lube in a bag with a small amount of 99% alcohol (buy it at a farm supply, 4liters, inexpensive) to thin it and speed dry time. I perfer it once its dried, it seems less messy.
Then I either wipe clean with a cotton cloth or wash with hot water, dawn soap, a little vinegar and 1/2 tsp salt in a 4 liter jug. Shake it a few times dump out to dry after 30 mins of soaking.
 
Burton Urnie said:
I have read that some types of lube , if left on the case.may case greater pressure on the bolt face.
I use Lee lube in a bag with a small amount of 99% alcohol (buy it at a farm supply, 4liters, inexpensive) to thin it and speed dry time. I perfer it once its dried, it seems less messy.
Then I either wipe clean with a cotton cloth or wash with hot water, dawn soap, a little vinegar and 1/2 tsp salt in a 4 liter jug. Shake it a few times dump out to dry after 30 mins of soaking.
Click to expand...

The soapy water is great, but I would never, never deliberately add salt to the mix.
 
I know someone who wrecked a rifle by neglecting to remove case lube. It does increase thrust on the bolt face. In this instance, the bolt lugs were set back in the action and headspace increased.
When using a pad with lube, I just wipe afterwards with a clean cloth. If using spray on lube, which gets inside the necks, I wash in ultrasonic cleaner or tumble with dry media to remove it.
 
Way back before we had access to all these fancy water soluable lubes and case tumblers we just used engine oil to lube the cases then rinsed them off with gasoline! We were well aware of increasing bolt thrust with an oily case and degrading the powder with oil.
 
Longwalker said:
I know someone who wrecked a rifle by neglecting to remove case lube. It does increase thrust on the bolt face. In this instance, the bolt lugs were set back in the action and headspace increased.
When using a pad with lube, I just wipe afterwards with a clean cloth. If using spray on lube, which gets inside the necks, I wash in ultrasonic cleaner or tumble with dry media to remove it.
Click to expand...

Do you know what kind of lube he had used? Petroleum based? I had read that British Proof houses, as part of their proofing process, dip the round to be fired into oil - to deliberately maximize the bolt thrust as part of their proofing - was apparently to be a "worst case" of using wet ammunition - melted snow, rain, etc. I believe that axial load was what they tended to measure - rifle had to withstand, two (I think) oiled proof loads - perhaps 125% of rated service pressure, without any deformity able to be measured - after versus before. I may have mis-remembered what they were doing when proofing rifles.
 
If your cases still have lube on them when you chamber and fire them - when the case body expands it will not grip the chamber walls and you will get a bolt bite back. I always clean / wipe my loaded rounds with a terry cloth to make sure there is nothing left on the cases
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom