waxes and buffing

Winnipeg Toymaker

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i have read the thread on finishing a stock. Poly finishes, rubbed in oil and laquer. I stripped the woods on my winnie rifle ( 1906) as the laquer job was deteriorated and just plain ugly. I guess people think a shiny coat on the wood sells it easier. I have used a spray on stripper meant for fine furniture. What a lovely wood appeared. I would like to buff it to a nice shine, using a paste wax and a drill buffer. Or should it be hand buffed? what kind of paste wax is recommended? A novice here so any help is welcome.
 
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I've used the Minwax paste with good results, but there may be something better. What brand was the spray-on stripper??
 
You'll want to seal the wood first. Wax alone won't do it. Pure Tung Oil(not the Tung Oil Finish) is a better finish than any wax. Several coats rubbed in will give you a nice sheen, is virtually water proof and brings out the grain of the wood. Make sure all the lacqeur is off before you put on any finish.
 
As Sunray has recommended, tung oil is good stuff. Polymerized tung oil (not tung oil finish) dries faster than plain. One way of using tung oil is to apply it as a wet sanding agent, sand with 600 grit wet and dry paper. This will serve in lieu of using a filler - the fine sawdust produced is mixed with the tung oil, and fills the pores in walnut, and is bonded in place as the oil dries. Stock comes up smooth and sealed. Apply additonal coats to produce the degree of shine desired. No harm in finishing with a good paste wax. I like microcrystalline conservator's wax. Lee Valley has lots of quality finishing products.
 
I did a dozen coats Circa 1850 tung oil on my Brno, rubbed with extra fine steel wool after 24 hour dry. Waterproof and really nice looking. Had the stock off so the whole thing is sealed.
 
tung oil

The Gustaf in the center is tung oil and 600 grit sand paper finsh. It takes alot of time but well worth it. The pores fill completely for a smooth classic finish.




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I like the finish acheived with a mixture of 50%BLO, 15% varnish and 10% Kiwi Shoe Polish. You can use either black or tan colored polish, depending on how dark you want the wood. I've also mixed it with Tru Oil for a shinier finish. Just use fine steel wool between each coat and it will give you a deep lustrous finish that is waterproof and easy to repair at the end of the hunting season it it gets scratched or rubbed badly. It takes about 5 coats, applied 24 hours apart to be successful. Looks and feels great and isn't slippery. bearhunter
 
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