Waxing Steel Ammo?

1340

1340

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
18   0   0
Location
In the boonies
I have some Norinco copper washed, steel case 308 ammo and have had trouble with cases sticking in the chamber after about 20 rounds.
I've read that lacquered cases can stick, but these are copper washed and don't appear to have any other coating on them.
I've also read that using car wax on steel cases can alleviate sticking. That and cleaning the chamber often of course.
Has anyone had this problem and used this solution?
Can anything else be remedy this problem?
Thanks.
 
1340 said:
I have some Norinco copper washed, steel case 308 ammo and have had trouble with cases sticking in the chamber after about 20 rounds.
I've read that lacquered cases can stick, but these are copper washed and don't appear to have any other coating on them.
I've also read that using car wax on steel cases can alleviate sticking. That and cleaning the chamber often of course.
Has anyone had this problem and used this solution?
Can anything else be remedy this problem?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Odd I have used this type of ammo in 2 different semis and a bolt with no issues, what are you shooting it out of?
 
Likely its a firearm not liking the ammo issue with your chamber having a higher tolerance than what steel provides. This is why brass has remained the primary shell casing material for so long. Test the same firearm with brass ammunition. If the issue is not be reproduced with the brass ammo, its telling you don't use steel ammo in that particular rifle.
 
Adding any lubricant, whether it be wax, oil, or something else runs the risk of increased bolt thrust which can damage the firearm or the user.

I wouldn't be dicking around with any of that. I agree with philhut, try some brass cased ammo, if that works without problem then stop using the steel case ammo. If the gun has the same issues with brass cased ammo then figure out what's wrong with your gun, don't go making questionable modifications to your ammo in hopes it works better.
 
I have a home built Stag 10, and have fired S&B ammo while adjusting the gas block. That ran good. Then I switched to Norinco. That's when I started having trouble. Tried readjusting the gas block position, no difference. I have since switched to a regular gas block but haven't tried it yet.
I'd love to switch to brass, but I have 2 cases of this ammo.
 
Last edited:
The 7.62x51 steel cased norinco is copper washed. There is no lacquer on it that I have ever seen. Anyone else?

I would not wax cartridges.
 
The Pedersen rifle used a waxed cartridge and competed with the Garand for adoption.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pedersen_rifle

" To ease extraction, cartridge cases were coated in mineral wax.[3] This left a thin film that was “hard, and durable, and was not sticky,”.[4] The waxed cases solved the issue of difficult extraction, but hindered acceptance of the Pedersen rifle because officials feared that the wax would attract dirt and cause operating failures. "

https://www.forgottenweapons.com/m1-garand-development/us-pedersen-276-rifle/
 
Be very very careful with lubing cases. It seems to be a dangerous move, some cases ( 303 Br comes to mind ) rely on the case to be clean and dry. As others have stated; it can increase bolt thrust to dangerous levels.
I'd research it thoroughly... then not do it myself. Because a one-off weapon from post WW1 used waxed cartridges isn't sound logic to do the same yourself.
Just my 2 cents...but research it thoroughly and do as you see fit to. Which you will do in the end...do as you see fit of course.
Stay safe
 
tokguy said:
Be very very careful with lubing cases. It seems to be a dangerous move, some cases ( 303 Br comes to mind ) rely on the case to be clean and dry. As others have stated; it can increase bolt thrust to dangerous levels.
I'd research it thoroughly... then not do it myself. Because a one-off weapon from post WW1 used waxed cartridges isn't sound logic to do the same yourself.
Just my 2 cents...but research it thoroughly and do as you see fit to. Which you will do in the end...do as you see fit of course.
Stay safe
Click to expand...

There's the rub, guns which use waxed or lubed bullets WERE DESIGNED TO USE THEM. Dont blow your eye out because of what people post on the internet
 
I use primed steel cases to make my best match handloads. The Berdan primers are better than Boxer match primers. In a bolt rifle I notice that the case will not extract at all until after it has cooled for about 15 seconds. I guess it contracts a bit as it cools.

In a semi auto you don't have that option. A smoother chamber might help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom