So the is the waxy film on 22 rimfire ammo some kind of lube or what? It seems to build up in my 10/22 and cause feeding problems . Is it just me or what. What would happen if I tumbled the ammo first? I do it all the time with my 9mm and no problems. Any and all comments appreciated.
waxy film on pmc ammo
- Thread starter Bogman
- Start date
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Most .22 LR ammo is externally lubricated.......that is what is building up. I WOULD NOT tumble any live ammo, specially rimfire.....but if you insist on it, just read the fine print in your insurance policy first.....your significant other will appreciate that! Good luck to you...
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Bogman said:
You might get away with tumbling centerfire(personally, I would not do it though), but remember, rimfire has a much larger area to prime (the whole rim) from that is exposed to bumps from other cartridges. Just my oinion, but you're crazy to try rimfire me says.....
Yes it is lube.
If you remove it, you will affect the accuracy of the cartridge - not necessarily worse but probably.
Without it, you will experience barrel leading.
Most target ammo has a waxy, greasy lube. I assume it gives more consistant results than dry lubes.
If you remove it, you will affect the accuracy of the cartridge - not necessarily worse but probably.
Without it, you will experience barrel leading.
Most target ammo has a waxy, greasy lube. I assume it gives more consistant results than dry lubes.
- Location
- Alberta land of many guns
How does removing the wax from 22 affect accuracy?? I don't think the wax coating is strictly controlled during manufacture.
CF
CF
skeetgunner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Burlington
The wax acts just like a paper-patch for BP centerfire lead loads. It helps seal the bore and prevents barrel leading and gas blow-by.
cannonfodder said:
Everything affects accuracy - the old lube, the new lube, and the old powder in your barrel. When testing ammo, you should clean your barrel between type of ammo, then shoot enough to condition the barrel before starting your accuracy testing. I don't usually go that far but still, you need to shoot enough of the new ammo to "settle the barrel down" before you start shooting for accuracy.
Many times I've started using a new ammo type and the first couple of groups are amazing, then deteriorate. The new ammo does well with the old lube in the barrel, then not so well when the old lube is gone.
I've found Winchester T22 shoots very well after shooting Eley and Lapua with their waxy lubes. I've thought about trying to add lube to T22's. A quick swipe with a toothbrush or acid brush or something similar.
Good question.KDX said:
I think the waxy lubes must help consistancy. All of the real target ammo I've seen has the heavy lubes - Eley, Lapua, PMC, Federal.
When you think of it, all of the copper washed ammo has a reputation for flyers. Dynapoints come to mind - great, accurate ammo in most guns but the odd flyer. Sure, it's probably manufacturing tolerances but maybe the heavy lube helps a bit.
Someone on the benchrest forum suggested shooting copper washed ammo to help clean the old lube out of a barrel. They were horrifed by the suggestion. One of the benchrest types at the club gave my buddy hell for shooting Dynapoints out of a classic target gun.
Copperwash seems to be the ammo of choice for most 10/22s. I usually buy Winchester Wildcat as it is cheap (not copperwashed) and not overly waxed.
I have had no issues with it but some people say it is junk in their 10/22s.
I have had no issues with it but some people say it is junk in their 10/22s.
skeetgunner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Burlington
Slash5 said:
I agree, its probably got more to do with manufacturing tolerance than coating...but that too might be a process thing. From a manufacturing perspective, wax might be easier/cheeping to apply in a tighter uniform fashion than a few thousandths of copper gilding.
BTW, through empirical observation, I've noticed that 90% of my Dynapoint flyers are low. Real flyers, not when I've done something boneheaded and called it. Which implies lower velocity and therefore inconsistency in powder charge. Anyone else notice this?
In addition to removing lube, it probably also removes the lead that has filled in any pitts or manufacturing marks in the rifling/lands. In a sense, you'd be "lead fire lapping" every time you touched off a traditional wax-lubed LRN bullet.
