way to get rid of engravings?

Anneal, file, polish, harden and reblue. The engraving must be really fugly to want to do that. Or are you just trying to get rid of some scratches in the bluing?

Sharptail
 
Halger280HVMag said:
Got a picture ?
Could it be a presentation piece ?
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well.... its a Webley MK1.
Marvelous revolver back in its day...
It has the landyard chopped off, hideous stag horn grips, and the guys name is engraved on both sides.

its still in 0.455 so thats good. it functions fine on double/single action. Good trigger still.

So far... The only thing i dont in the unbubbaing process is replace the grips back to some reproduction hard black plastic grips.
 
bisonhd said:
Engraving's ment to be permanent, usually removing it makes it look worse.
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so i guess im doomed.

death-junky said:
oh ok then continue:D I hate those abominations that bubba has produced in the first place!
ttyal
Riley
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this is the first ever case of Webley Bubba'ing i have ever seen...
 
Post a pic anyways! Even a bastardized webly can be nice to look at, even if just for the thoughts of what you like to do to the legions of Bubba's everywhere!

You shouldn't have to anneal to file a firearm, they're usually only mid hard, but you better be good at it or it will look bad when your done. If the engraving is too deep, you'll loose to much thickness visually for it to look right. :mad:
 
Post a pic and you might be able to get some better recommendations. Preferably one full view top and one close up 3/4" with long lighting so that the depth of the engraving can be seen.

Annealling is unneccesary, but the exact method that may be used depends on a lot of factors that photos will help illuminate.
 
You would be amazed at how much work there is to removing a scratch, let alone incise engraving.
First I would remove the blue, then burnish the area. There is a special tool for this.
By burnishing you fold the metal back into the incised line.
This will leave a low place in the metal. Next you have to finish with 400 wet sandpaper or a stone.
The sand paper can be done first to the finish you want, then use a cold blue to see the results. If the low place stands out too much you will have to do some serious stoning. I usually do this under a small stream of water.
The bluing on most guns hides a LOT of bad finishes.
Good Luck
 
Tactical Conversion Rem 1100 Project

I just got a used Remington 1100 Skeet and I want to make a tactical gun out of it. I'll keep the skeet barrel, and I have a second one to chop down and turn to make Remchoke threads.

When I'm done, it'll look like the Remington Tactical 1100. My trouble is the factory engraving. The bolt is easy enough, I'll replace it, but the receiver is another story. I figure that it doesn't need to be a perfectly smooth and flat, since I will bead blast and Dura-Coat it OD Green.

Would JB Weld work (cheap)? I don't see that being a great solution. I could take it to work and TIG it, but I'd rather not disturb the metallurgy, even with a good heat treatment afterwards it will still warp dimensions. Hopefully a good bead blasting will be all that's needed. I'd like to hear your suggestions.
Thanks
 
Craftsman 441: Save the 1100 for skeet ,there is not too much that you can do to a 1100 legally in Canada, and your lat and long put you in PETAWAWA. Get a 870 and you can go to town with real short barrels , or not as short barrels and extended mags, sidesaddles and an endless supply of different stocks types. On an 1100 the best you could do is a 5 shot stock mag, an 18.5 barrel, a side saddle and a choice of a standard stock, a plastic standard stock and a pistol gripped shoulder stock. Also the 1100 is not an 11-87 which has a different gas system, and the 1100 will not work well with a mixture of different powered cartridges. You can adjust it to make it work well with powerful shells but it won't work with lower power shells without being adjusted back. There might be a few more things you could do but with an 870 it is just about endless. And a used 870 is not that expensive.
 
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I think the Dura-Coat stuff has a filler that might do the job. Then you could paint the whole gun. Not as nice as bluing, I know; but it might be a case of the lesser of two evils.
 
you could probably lightly peen it with a ball peen hammer, enough to flow the edges of the engraving back in , then do the dura coat. If you don't fill in the engraving, it will show through.
 
treat it like a car.. prep the metal, BONDO (skim coat it with Bondo then sand it smoother than you could have imagined) then take the reciever for a powder coat.... couple layers of clear and it should have a mirror finish on it.

You could even layer your coats so that in the event of a scratch...the more scratches it gets a cammo pattern appears....( grey under black? different shade of green on green?)

its all up to you...
 
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The polyester resin would stand up to the conditions of a reciever being used, but I question whether it would standup to the temperture of powder coating.
 
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