Weak Firing Spring in a Ross 1910

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I have sporterized rifle, and it has a very gentle firing pin spring, and only barely dents the primers. I am having accuracy issues, and wondering if this could be it. In any case, am I the first to have this problem? Is there another spring that fits?
Thanks
 
Google Wolf Springs in the US. They will make you a brand new one that is identical to spec. Most likely, someone nipped a couple of coils off the spring or maybe it just became brittle and broke. I have never had a firing pin spring go soft.

I have had them break though.
 
Thanks guys, I will take it apart, and see what is going on. I have heard of firing pin spring problems, but never had them. Have also heard of firing pin / spring problems causing accuracy problems, but never had that experience either, It is an old rifle, and that bolt has not been apart for a long time, perhaps a bit of cleaning will fix it, hopefully it makes it accurate.
 
Thanks guys, I will take it apart, and see what is going on. I have heard of firing pin spring problems, but never had them. Have also heard of firing pin / spring problems causing accuracy problems, but never had that experience either, It is an old rifle, and that bolt has not been apart for a long time, perhaps a bit of cleaning will fix it, hopefully it makes it accurate.

Ross bolts are a whole different ball game and can be assembled improperly but still fit into the rifle and fire.

Give buffdog or smellie a PM and get them to explain how to do the job properly and in layman's terms.
 
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Go to the Milsurps Forum. There is a Sticky there that tells you about the disassembly and reassembly of the 1910 Ross Bolt.

I would clean the bolt/firing pin first. Older oils used tend to be thicker and heavier, and collect dust more. Too much lubrication can act like a hydraulic piston, especially in the winter, and this slows down the firing pin fall.
 
It is practically impossible to tell now how strong a new MkIII Ross's spring would have been in 1914. We do know that Ross had a lot of trouble keeping skilled workmen after WWI began, and a lot of trouble getting the right materials. Government obstruction and parsimony was a factor in both matters. There were complaints of soft springs even then - which ones is not mentioned.

It all depends on the steels used, how they are wound and heat treated, how they are stored and used during the intervening decades, etc.

I have MkIIIs with springs that are weak or seem to be weak; they may have been poor springs from the start, or the rifle was left cocked for years - no way to tell now.

There's no reason not to replace the spring if you feel it is inadequate. Put the old one in the butt trap oiled and wrapped with a note explaining when, why and with what it was replaced.

Note that you may need to make up a tool to remove and replace the locking collar which holds the spring and firing pin in the bolt head. The firing pin is .2145 dia. and the OD of the collar is .380. Get a piece of metal tube or bore out a round bar to those dimensions, cut a slot across the end of the tube a few thou over .145 wide and about .035 deep and you have your firing pin removal tool. Add a "T" handle or make the tool from an old screwdriver with a round shank and you're good to go.
 
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The firing pin spring has nothing to do with accuracy. Like mooncoon says, clean the bolt first. Just drop the whole thing, as is, into a container of regular solvent and leave it for 24 hours. Blow it out with air. Then think about taking it apart if that doesn't help.
Bolt disassembly instructions are here.
http://milpas.cc/rifles/ZFiles/Bolt Action Rifles/CANADIAN ROSS RIFLE/CANADIAN ROSS RIFLE.htm
As to accuracy, your rifle may be a civilian rifle and have nothing to do to with the military at all. Start with a really good bath. And have a look at the muzzle for any kind of damage.
The ammo used will matter too.
 
I have read somewhere that inconsistent ignition will cause accuracy problems. This rifle is a military rifle originally, that was a basket case, and was re barreled, and chambered to 7mm rem mag. This was the rifle that proved to me that building them is not cheap. I bought a quite a nice inletted stock, ($300 US), after paying for the barrel, chambering, bluing, and the $90 I paid for the rifle. At the time I wanted the rifle to approximate a 280 Ross, with a modern cartridge. It has a Bausch and Lomb Elite 4000 scope, which should be ok, but I will try another. The barrel that I put on was a cheap Centurion barrel, and when I checked it , to my surprise it has an 11 inch twist. I had it working pretty will with 175 grain bullets, but this conversation started when I tried some 160 grain bullets. I loaded them up to slightly less than 3000 fps. and it would put two together, and the third may be as much as a foot high at 100 yards ( good for very long range). Getting the bolt back together was a bit tricky, as it did not want to go in the correct groove, I finally got it, and it is working better, this eve I will fire a primer to prove it, but I am sure it is hitting them much harder. I really like this rifle, and will do what is required to make it work.
 
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