Weapon Camoflauge/Painting

ir360

ir360

New member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Vancouver, BC
I own a Remington 870P (Image below), Ruger 10/22 and just ordered a Savage Arms 10TR and I'm looking to redo the finish on one or all of them, particularly the Savage. I'm in the military and have plenty of experience in proper weapon cleaning and maintenance, and installed all the furniture on my 870P myself but I've never attempted modifying a weapon at this level. I like the OD Green and Desert Tan looks and want my weapons to blend in better to the environment so I've been looking into ways to redo the finish. However, I don't like the idea of just gun taping the weapons and hoping it stays on, and I have seen pictures of Duracoted rifles and think they look great. I'm no gunsmith so I really only have access to common household tools but am willing to invest in an airbrush kit if it's necessary.

The main things I'm wondering are:

1) What are your opinions of painting/Duracoting a rifle in terms of does it effect longevity and performance?
2) How practical is it really? In other words what are the chances I can do this myself without getting terrible results and how much time would it take? I am willing to put the time in but not so much that it would be more cost effective to just pay someone to do it for me.
3) Do I need to use material- specific paints or is it a one-size-fits-all kind of situation? In other words I know the Duracote works on metal but what about the wood and synthetic parts of my weapons?


If anyone has attempted anything like this before please let me know how it went and whether you would do it again. Pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Remington870P_zps4ac14515.jpg
 
Duracoat, Arma-coat, and Ceracoat, are all pretty much the same family of coating. Arma being Canadian is your easiest choice. Dura has a larger color pallet if you're really choosy.

They all adhere equally well to metal, wood, or plastic. If you do your end properly as per the instructions they actually out perform chrome in salt water tests.

It's not overly difficult to spray a gun. An airbrush will certainly improve the quality of the outcome but a spray kit can work fine to. In alot of cases roughing the finish to improve the paints adherence is the hardest part of the job.

There are tons of video's on youtube that can walk you through more advanced spray projects. Everything from a Realtree type camo all the way to digi-flage. You can practice with cheap paint on a piece of wood and when you feel your skills are up to it paint your guns.

If you're really apprehensive to tackle the job Armacoat has a great track record and their prices are quite fair.

Worst case scenario is your OD Green paint job gets transformed into camouflage to cover over a few mistakes. Best case scenario is your buddies drool on your new gun ( don't worry it's salt water resistant now ) and all want you to paint their guns. Not such a horrible sideline to get into tbh.

gl
 
Have you considered Water Transfer Printing? Tons of options and designs.

The place I used before is closed now but I did a quick google search and found one in Red Deer
h ttp://www.liquidcustoms.ca/
 
I got 2 painted Multicam by Cobra imaging, water transfer painting. It's nice but doesn't last like the backed finish you're talking about.
Small impact will get the paint to chip and then it peel easily.
I also did a few paint job with cheap Krylon spray cans. Can make a really nice job but it will wear with friction or handling. Well maybe it would have lasted longer if I used a primer and a seal coat. Anyway, when it's worn I can just add some or wipe it clean. It retain the corrosion resistance of the first finish.
Advantages of the krylon paint are:
Don't add thickness to rails
Removable and repaintable if you change your setup/accessories
 
Hijacking the thread and not :

I've tought about using Plasti-dip to change the color on my Remington 700 AAC-SD. The goal was to turn my stock white for winter and whatever color I feel (black or custom camo) for the other seasons. 3-4 coats, very durable and peel it off when you're sick of it OR easily touch it up with left overs you got from previous paint job.

For those of you that don't know/never heard of PLASTIDIP :
http://www.plastidip.com/

Now, I've used it on car parts before for element protection during winter (bumpers, fog light covers, hoods, fenders) and many people use it year long on their entire vehicule.

If anyone has done this before, could you show us pictures and reviews on how it held of synthetic parts ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom