Webley MK I Revolver help needed

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swampdog

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This is on a Webley MK I* revolver.

The forward locking lug that rises out of the frame under the cylinder and engages the slots in the cylinder is not working properly. With the hammer uncocked, the lug sometimes moves into position to stop the cylinder from rotating and sometimes it stays retracted. It also should move up and engage the cylinder when the hammer is cocked, but it does not do so.

Any tips on how to deal with this? We plan to clean and lube the area after removing the trigger guard. Removing the trigger guard allows a bit of access by the looks of it. If that does not do it, is it likely to be a problem with the spring in there? If so, how tough is it to remove the trigger assembly. It looks as if the assembly comes out through the grip area, after removing two screws and maybe a pin under the grip.

Also, does anyone here have a parts diagram for the MK I/MK II that they can share? Diagrams for MK III to MK VI are on line, but they may not be identical to the MK I in this area. Or are they the same?

Thanks for any help.
 
My Mk 1 had similar problems when I first recieved it.
Turns out the "trigger stop spring" was broken.
I made up a new one from bandsaw blade spring steel. All has worked perfectly since.

A small part, only .100" wide by .400" long, if I recall correctly, with a tiny screw through one end holding it to the trigger.

According to Ian Skennertons Small Arms Identification Series, 455 Pistol, Revolver No.1 - Mk VI (a most excellent Webley resource) ... the trigger stop spring is common to all Webley's Mk1, 1*, 11, 111, 1V & V.

To dissasemble, first remove the trigger guard, mainspring, mainspring auxiliary, then the trigger pivot screw. The trigger comes out of the frame slot with pawl and trigger stop attached.

Sorry, I can't post pics or exploded diagrams, but feel free to PM me with any further questions.
 
Thank you, vviking. Anything particular to watch out for - flying springs, breaking main spring when released, special tools needed, etc? Or is the disassembly quite straightforward?
 
Stripping. Webley Marks 1, 1* and 11: Per Skennerton '.455 Pistol, Revolver NO1 MK VI'. Armourers Notes.
1. remove stocks.
2. remove trigger guard.
3. to lift by hand the mainspring off its stud - full-#### the hammer and pass the fork of the cramp over the mainspring as far up as possible, release the trigger and take out the mainspring. (Lacking a 'cramp', I compressed the mainspring and held it so with a couple of zip ties, from cocked position.)
4. take out mainspring auxiliary.
5. unscrew the trigger screw and take out the trigger with pawl attached.
6. unscrew hammer screw and take out hammer.
7. unscrew cylinder axis screw, and remove cylinder from the barrel. (mine was tight first time off)
8. unscrew joint axis screw, push out joint axis pin, and remove barrel from body; the extracter lever can now be removed.
9. unscrew barrel catch screw, remove barrel catch and spring. Note: The barrel catch spring should not be removed except for repair.
10. unscrew the spindle screw, (bottom of the cyl. tube) remove the spiral spring and extractor.
11. unscrew the anti-friction nut(left handed screw) and remove the cylinder axis.


Less daunting than it sounds, once you have those first time jitters behind you.
The gun was designed for easy stripping/maintenance in the field.
Take special care not to lose that teeny tiny 'lil trigger stop spring screw .... stuck mine on a magnet in a zip lock baggie.:)
Ian Skennerton, Small Arms Identification Series, S.A.I.S. No. 9, ".455 PISTOL REVOLVER NO.1 MKVI"
This excellent, inexpensive booklet contains exploded diagrams, parts interchangability charts (many parts do interchange between the various Marks), and detailed instructions/armourers notes, on servicing MK1 through MKVI Webley revolvers.

Good luck.
:rockOn:
 
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vviking said:
Stripping. Marks 1, 1* and 11:
1. remove stocks.
2. remove trigger guard.
3. to lift by hand the mainspring off its stud - full-#### the hammer and pass the fork of the cramp over the mainspring as far up as possible, release the trigger and take out the mainspring. (Lacking a 'cramp', I compressed the mainspring and held it so with a couple of zip ties, from cocked position.)
4. take out mainspring auxiliary.
5. unscrew the trigger screw and take out the trigger with pawl attached.
6. unscrew hammer screw and take out hammer.
7. unscrew cylinder axis screw, and remove cylinder from the barrel. (mine was tight first time off)
8. unscrew joint axis screw, push out joint axis pin, and remove barrel from body; the extracter lever can now be removed.
9. unscrew barrel catch screw, remove barrel catch and spring. Note: The barrel catch spring should not be removed except for repair.
10. unscrew the spindle screw, (bottom of the cyl. tube) remove the spiral spring and extractor.
11. unscrew the anti-friction nut(left handed screw) and remove the cylinder axis.


Less daunting than it sounds, once you have the first time jitters behind you.
The gun was designed for easy stripping/maintenance in the field.
Take special care not to lose that teeny tiny 'lil trigger stop spring screw .... stuck mine on a magnet in a zip lock baggie.:)

Good luck.
:rockOn:
Click to expand...

This should be a sticky so someone doesnt have to type it all out again.

I like the Zip Ties idea :cool: on the main spring as you have to be carefull as if you dont compress it and then you gota twist it out you can break the hooked tips off one side.

Good Idea!
 
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You may get lucky. The flat spring is held in place by a slotted screw, and eventually the screw gets loose and backs off.

It might be as simple as tightening the screw once you get the trigger out!

The flat spring is fairly simple too if it's broken.
 
Does this help any?
WebMK1.jpg
 
Get the book and you'll really know which are the easy to work on guns and which are the put it down and back away ones.
A Collector's guide to Military Pistol & Revolver Disassembly and Reassembly
Awesome book quite frankly.
 
tokguy said:
Does this help any?
Click to expand...

Yes it does tokguy, no such thing as too much Webley info, eh?.:
That page has been put to favourites, thanks.


Kevin M. said:
That is neat.

Didn't know that they had that few parts.
Click to expand...

45 parts to a MK1, MK1*, MK11.
Amazingly simple, considering how durable, fast shooting, and user friendly these old warhorses have proven to be.


tokguy said:
Get the book and you'll really know which are the easy to work on guns and which are the put it down and back away ones.
A Collector's guide to Military Pistol & Revolver Disassembly and Reassembly
Awesome book quite frankly.
Click to expand...

Where do we find it?. And, how much $?.:D
 
You guys are great; thanks for all the help. I was asking for someone else and passed the information on to him. He probably will have more questions for you too as he works on this.
 
vviking said:
Yes it does tokguy, no such thing as too much Webley info, eh?.:
That page has been put to favourites, thanks.




45 parts to a MK1, MK1*, MK11.
Amazingly simple, considering how durable, fast shooting, and user friendly these old warhorses have proven to be.




Where do we find it?. And, how much $?.:D
Click to expand...
The Gun Collector magazine editor is Stuart Mowbray.
Try www gunandswordcollector.com
Around 30 - 40 $ if I recall. Absolutely worth it.
 
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Thanks guys, got it fixed thanks to your help, the diagrams and advice were valuable.

Two problems I think, one was that the spring had been worked on by someone in the past and it had a sharp end that was gouging the middle lobe on the trigger bolt that the spring rides on, I shortened the spring to what appeared to the right length and deburred it and the lobe so it moved smoothly. After that it wasn't resetting between the lobes properly so I had to build up a little bit on the end of the bolt part that resets on the frame to make it work properly. Anyway, now it works perfectly and locks up tight both at rest and when the hammer is back.

Can't wait to go and shoot it now.
 
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