Webley RIC Pre 2 Blowed Up
- Thread starter 53Izzy744
- Start date
Dang, sorry - I did not see that.
All good, seems like the perfect place. But typical of the anti gun govs i cant even get a frickin screw shipped to me
KotKotofeich
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ottawa Valley
If the Mk6 screw does indeed work (let me know if you want me to check - I have both a Mk6 and a RIC) then Numrich has guard screws in stock and ships to Canada.
That would be awesome if you could, gives me more options and would be a good reference for anyone else who may find themselves in a search lol
Thank you everyone for your input!
KotKotofeich
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ottawa Valley
On mine they are not _quite the same from the looks of things
shorter one is from the RIC longer from the MkVI though I checked and all of my MkI (* and not) II IV and VI use the same long screw.
But the mk6 fits and could be made to work with some cutting and hand filing..
shorter one is from the RIC longer from the MkVI though I checked and all of my MkI (* and not) II IV and VI use the same long screw.
But the mk6 fits and could be made to work with some cutting and hand filing..
On mine they are not _quite the same from the looks of things
shorter one is from the RIC longer from the MkVI though I checked and all of my MkI (* and not) II IV and VI use the same long screw.
But the mk6 fits and could be made to work with some cutting and hand filing..
Thank you! Seems like a great place to start at least!
Edit to add:
Entered shipping info and went to finish the order and i got this disclaimer
Furthermore, when purchasing handgun parts, I am responsible to provide Canada Customs with proof that I legally own the handgun.
How does that work when antiques in Canada are not considered a handgun?
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Thank you, the search is on!
Tracy Tools Ltd out of the UK may have screws that can be cut to length, with the proper pitch and form.
If they don't have the screws, they can likely put you onto a good lead.
I know they have the hand tools to make up those screws, such as taps and dies.
That pistol is definitely worth fixing properly.
IMHO, the next time you load up for this pistol, use black powder.
If they don't have the screws, they can likely put you onto a good lead.
I know they have the hand tools to make up those screws, such as taps and dies.
That pistol is definitely worth fixing properly.
IMHO, the next time you load up for this pistol, use black powder.
4 grains of Unique leaves a lot of empty air space in that case, especially if it's the long version case.
If I were using that load, which I agree is light for a modern or even later model, I would use a filler between the powder and bullet. Actually I just stick with black powder when I load for my RIC.
Yeah. Better idea is to befriend a Dentist, and stock up on carbide Dental Burrs (the cutters they use to carve your cavities out) In an air pencil or Dremel tool, they are easy to use to cut a new screwdriver slot in the broken off remains, as a starting point!
Yea like others said 4gr of unique behind a 260gr pill was too hot. My usual was 185gr pill with 3.5gr of unique and that was warm.
A skilled machinist might be able to make a screw or tap the frame for something more common.
Did you consider running a strong magnet over the area to retrieve the screw?
Cheers
Moe
A skilled machinist might be able to make a screw or tap the frame for something more common.
Did you consider running a strong magnet over the area to retrieve the screw?
Cheers
Moe
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As of now i just have the shank drilled out with a left handed bit, it didnt grab strong enough to unscrew it. So i gotta get an easy out for the rest. Once it is out i will confirm the rear screw fits into the front hole (thats what she said!) and if it does i will be able to try to find someone to make a new one or compare it to anything i order to make sure i dont end up getting 25 screws lol
Moe, the head of the screw sheared from the shank. I could go over it with a magnet but i dont think that will help anything really. I have the rear screw and the heads looked identical. (Maybe length is different?)
Moe, the head of the screw sheared from the shank. I could go over it with a magnet but i dont think that will help anything really. I have the rear screw and the heads looked identical. (Maybe length is different?)
I have the screw mostly drilled out (i used a 5/64th bit leaving a bit of room left for the easy-out to grab). If the easy out doesnt work i will gently work on the sidewalls of the screw with a pic to collapse it away from the body of the frame.
If that doesnt work i may go that route, but instead of trying to weld a allen key to it, fill the drilled out screw with jb weld and build up a handle to use as a type of thumbscrew lol
If you are going to collapse the screw and remove the remains of the shank with a pick, drill the hole as large as you can without touching the frame. A set of wire gauge number drills helps. If the hole is slightly off center, all the better. Use a small punch and collapse the thick side toward the thin.
Just be really careful that you don't touch the frame.
With respect to easy-outs... when you tap one into the hole, you might be expanding the shank, setting it more firmly in place.
Just be really careful that you don't touch the frame.
With respect to easy-outs... when you tap one into the hole, you might be expanding the shank, setting it more firmly in place.
Got it out.
It came out really easy with the easy out lol
I used the smallest size the set had which was #0
Slowly turned with my drill and it came out smooth
I tried the rear screw into the front hole and it went it but was ever so slightly loose up until the shoulder touched and it tightened down fine. Looks like the rear screw has slightly less pronounced threads on it. I may need two screws just incase lol
It came out really easy with the easy out lol
I used the smallest size the set had which was #0
Slowly turned with my drill and it came out smooth
I tried the rear screw into the front hole and it went it but was ever so slightly loose up until the shoulder touched and it tightened down fine. Looks like the rear screw has slightly less pronounced threads on it. I may need two screws just incase lol
Great, you got it out!
Looks like the thread of the rear screw has prior damage, I would get a replacement for both.
Just in case the threads in the hole got damaged I would have suggested to run a 4mm tap through it, same pitch just .35 mm larger, and of course 4mm screws are easy to find.
What is really weird, and this must be British, but why are the screws the same thread but have different size heads on them, go figure !
Looks like the thread of the rear screw has prior damage, I would get a replacement for both.
Just in case the threads in the hole got damaged I would have suggested to run a 4mm tap through it, same pitch just .35 mm larger, and of course 4mm screws are easy to find.
What is really weird, and this must be British, but why are the screws the same thread but have different size heads on them, go figure !
Good place to get steel picks too. - dan
