Welding a norinco

I have had a few things welded even by a pro welder it never seems to hold up long or even short term.

You would be best to replace the part like was mentioned already.
 
lcardinal said:
I already have other barrels,I wanted to know what type of rod or wire that would be different for chinese steel
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The issue is that if the metal will no longer have the hardness that comes from the forging or any heat treatment that was done by the maker. The heat of welding will ruin that. So unless you use a higher tensile strength wire and then have the barrel re-heat treated then the welded area will not have a consistent hardness/spring temper through the area of the weld and on into the rest of the chamber area metal. And that is likely why the other guys did not have any luck with welding on something that gets so much punishment as a barrel lug.
 
Superarc

Finally tried Superarc L-56 mild steel wire/C-25 gas,welded lower lugs, and side of barrel hood After firing 256 rds of full power 255 gr LSWC with 6.5 grs Unique,the barrel was X-rayed with no cracking or distortion present.
 
I'm going to continue to x-ray,The whole point of these Norincos, for me is to tinker with them,I got hooked on 45 super a few years ago and can't seem to stop experimenting.
 
No, I packed the barrel in pottery clay,with wet paper towel inside,used a low setting on the Mig then let it cool down on its own.
 
Gunsmiths who accurized 1911 pattern pistols have welded hoods and lugs for eighty years or so, failure rate is very low, but these are usually for "softball " target guns. Norinco barrels are hard chromed, and that means difficulty in doing the traditional welds. With an overloaded cartridge as you are working with, I think you have found a better solution than traditional mild steel. Longevity wild of course be "yet to be determined".

cheers
 
The pressure of this round is still half of a 10mm.You say hard chromed,then you say mild steel,when the chinese actually use chromoly,The added material was .013" on the legs,and .011 on the hood.I stippled the said areas with a punch and welded only till it puddled out nicely. I originally started this thread by asking for help,instead all I hear is can't, shouldn't,and it's gonna break.I'm not a gunsmith,this is my hobby,I would never resell this barrel,nor recommend my EXPERIMENTS to anyone
 
Not arguing with success, but I'm wondering why you chose GMAW over GTAW?
Did you preheat to avoid a cold-lap problem?
 
Good question,I chose this method based on affordability of the machine,which I can use for other projects.I bought a Lincoln mig pak 140 new for $300.00, I used a B setting, wire feed on slow,this brought less heat to the surface.I used a center punch stipple to aid flow out,no preheat.On a side note I bought a bunch of thick washers,made in China,seem to be the same as the barrel, and practiced on them by welding the edge,this brought the skill set up to par, and gave me an indication of what to expect.
 
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