Welding on a barrel

[drill702]

I have just acquired a barrel for my 870 and somebody bubba'd down the barrel band so the end cap would screw on more . Well they cut in to the barrel a little bit, can I just run a tig bead on it ? It's a dominion arms barrel. I've already shot it before I even noticed but would like to fix it for peace of mind.

 

[Aries-]

Problem with tig (and any welding) it changes the composition of the metal, and also any heat treating that was in the barrel. Now being half way down the barrel you may be ok. But any barrel i see in the store that is welded post manufacture generaly gets tossed in the scrap bin.

 

[BigRobb]

Welding on the barrel will pull it in the direction of the weld. I wouldn't.

 

[drill702]

It's a 12" barrel the cut is only a inch from the end.

 

[Hitzy]

Scrap the barrel and buy a new one...

 

[lmh1022]

It's a 12" barrel the cut is only a inch from the end.

being that close to the end of the barrel I wouldn't worry about it at all unless it was 3/4 of the way through and more than 1/4 " long (think drilling for front sight, porting, choke installation etc )

 

[BigRobb]

It's a 12" barrel the cut is only a inch from the end.

You could try then if you really wanted to. Try not to burn through.

 

[drill702]

The cut is 12mm long and .10 to .15 mm deep

 

[tessy2ton]

Tig it, grind it, blue it and use it....whats the big deal?

 

[safehunter]

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: I'm not a lawyer or a gunsmith

just do it. I doubt you'll notice a difference with a 12" open choke.

Make sure you report back with pictures and range report.

 

[drill702]

Tig it, grind it, blue it and use it....whats the big deal?

It's really close to the barrel band and I will have to weld the band and the cut all together . I'm not sure how the band is attached .

 

[scout_289]

From Wiki: According to Remington, modern powder in a shotgun burns completely in 25 (9.8425 in) to 36 (14.173 in) cm barrels.

So pressure shouldn't be a problem. Now it becomes a question of cosmetics, rusting of the heat affected zone, burn through and distortion. Safety shouldn't be an issue but be sure to tell the buyer if you sell it.

Probably boils down to your skill as welder and your choice of filler rod.

 

[scout_289]

It's really close to the barrel band and I will have to weld the band and the cut all together . I'm not sure how the band is attached .

Oops, now it's getting more complicated!

 

[drill702]

Scrap the barrel and buy a new one...

sadly you may be right I got a little to excited when I seen it for sale at a decent price .

 

[Kingjenky]

sadly you may be right I got a little to excited when I seen it for sale at a decent price .

Weld it man....it will work just fine!

 

[bearhunter]

This is going to go against the grain of some folks but we aren't talking about an expensive firearm here. It is a low value firearm that actually gives a pretty good bang for the buck.

The welding of the spot will change things but mostly on an inconsequential level.

Before you fill in the cut remove the barrel from the receiver/stock and stuff it full with loosely packed but completely water soaked rags. These will absorb the heat which will only be applied for a very short time period. The water soaked rags will draw the heat away from the steel and not allow it to heat up enough to change anything that will effect its safe operation. This is of course IMHO.

 

[wbaad]

If not too deep why not dress it and leave alone? The old 1897 has a notch in the barrel for the barrel band

 

[drill702]

If not too deep why not dress it and leave alone? The old 1897 has a notch in the barrel for the barrel band

I wish I could , it bothers me

 

[Can-down]

metal epoxy.

 

[drill702]

metal epoxy.

I would not trust that for strength .