I would not trust that for strength .
Tig weld it bud you'll see it'll work just fine....
I would not trust that for strength .
Yes but since I already have this barrel I would like to fix it . hate to see $90 go to the scrap heap.by the time you have paid someone to weld it and refinish the barrel , you more than likely could have bought another barrel for the same money .
Yes but since I already have this barrel I would like to fix it . hate to see $90 go to the scrap heap.
Maybe it does...but maybe it doesn't .and yet maybe that is where it belongs ....................
It's a 12" barrel the cut is only a inch from the end.
Thanks but I am not worried about some very light shrinkage on a 12" blaster.Doesn't matter. Welding only on the one side will pull the metal towards the weld.
There ARE ways to peen that stress back out. I'm thinking a tight fitting arbor in the bore and then peening the weld with the ball end of a ball peen hammer to stretch back out the metal in the weld and just in the last mm around it. Done well the peening/stretching will relieve the stresses in and around the weld are due to the shrinkage of the metal as it cooled. Also heating up the whole end to somewhere around what it would take to melt soft solder and then weld would do a lot towards minimizing the shrinkage stress.
It's not something I'd want to do on a rifle barrel at all. And not something I'd suggest for any part of a shot gun bore that was closer to the chamber. But that close to the muzzle? I don't see it being a bad thing.
Tig it, grind it, blue it and use it....whats the big deal?
Thanks but I am not worried about some very light shrinkage on a 12" blaster.
The cut is 12mm long and .10 to .15 mm deep
.004" to .006" barely a scratch show a pic of this horrific damage!!! Polish it out and touch up the bluing.
Not worth firing up the tig.
R