wet ss tumbling starting to piss me off

John Y Cannuck said:
Me I use the older version. Looking at this however, I might just order the conversion kit.

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Ok, I don't understand this. I picked up the basic Lyman 1200 for $59 at LeBaron. The conversion kit at Amazon.com is like $32. Add the two of those up and it is less than what the Auto-flow 1200 retails at (in Canada).

Ah well. If they have have one in stock at LeBaron I might swap.
 
I use isopropyl alcohol after I rinse the cases with water. then I lay them on towel with a fan blowing on them for 10-15 minutes nice and dry.
 
667 said:
As far as drying goes... You guys are impatient.
I roll the brass around in a towel then dump them onto a boot tray.
Leave them overnight and they're dry.
Usually mine sit for a couple of days anyway so no matter.... They just dry sitting there.
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I wish. If i could I would, but as of today, I have 100 fired brass sitting around waiting for a full load, then today I shot off 100. I only have 200 Lapua brass so now I'm cleaning and will be baking and reloading because we're going out tomorrow again!

But yes, if I have time I just let them air dry.

I'll try to heat cycling and not a constant on oven.
 
thump_rrr said:
For those using an oven even as low as 200F the temperature in various poins in the oven can greatly exceed the desired temperature. The only way to ensure you don't overheat the brass and fuse case head separation is to warm up the oven and when it gets to the desired temperature turn it off then put the brass into the oven.
There will be enough residual heat in there to dry the brass completely.
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Woah!!!!

My mistake. I meant to say 175F, not 275!!!

I just turned on my oven to "cook" some brass and realized its 175!!!! (as low as my oven goes...)

Always take info from the internet with a grain of salt. I hope somebody didn't do a cook at 275.....

I will still try to cycle the oven in 10-15 reheats so it doesn't turn on when brass in in there.
 
canoetrpr said:
Kryogen, which Lyman tumbler are you referring to. I just picked up the cheap Turbo 1200 one today. Maybe I'll return it and get this fancy model you speak of.
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I had one & didn't find that it worked that well. Not all of the media drains out so you still have to dump the brass out of the tumbler to remove the remaining media. I ended up selling the bowl and going to the RCBS media separator. You just dump the media and brass in the separator and spin it a few times. Does the job a lot quicker and better. I also found that as the brass was being agitated it dislodged the corn cob from the primer pockets better than the auto flo did.
 
ted_dent said:
I had one & didn't find that it worked that well. Not all of the media drains out so you still have to dump the brass out of the tumbler to remove the remaining media. I ended up selling the bowl and going to the RCBS media separator. You just dump the media and brass in the separator and spin it a few times. Does the job a lot quicker and better. I also found that as the brass was being agitated it dislodged the corn cob from the primer pockets better than the auto flo did.
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Really appreciate you posting my friend. Your experience with it is worth a lot. I think I'll just get me a media separator in that case.
 
That Lyman looks like a PIA to me. separating the media with a plug , then swoshing the brass around to remove the rest of the media, down right micky mouse. I have a standard vibrating piece and a Cabelas media separator, dump the whole works in , close the lid, give it a few cranks then dump the media back in the tumbler. Easy peasy thing of beauty. FS
 
jfarrell said:
For those using stainless pins, what kind of tumbler and where did you get it.
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Thumler Model B High Speed is the most sought after (3600rpm motor)
They so have a low speed with a 1750 rpm motor which is what I have.
I bought it off of Amazon and wasn't aware of there being 2 different motor speeds.
They don't mention it on their website and I haven't found 2 different part numbers which would be a good way to tell them apart.
You can purchase the tumbler and the SS pins from Sinclair International in the US (Brownells)
When it's in stock that is.
If you purchase from them tell them to ship USPS.
In the comment section write to ship the cheapest way possible.
 
Hey bigedp51 i would pick up all the 303 brass you dump on the ground. It would go in the brass recycle bucket.:D And yes i think 1 would make a cult as long as i`m the "leader for life". Still don`t have the urge to get a polisher may build one like fogducker built a year or so ago.:cheers:
 
Even 275 would not hurt brass

Optimal Case Temperatures for Successful Annealing

Brass is an excellent conductor of heat. A flame applied at any point on a case for a short time will cause the rest of the case to heat very quickly. There are several temperatures at which brass is affected. Also, the time the brass remains at a given temperature will have an effect. Brass which has been "work hardened" (sometimes referred to as "cold worked") is unaffected by temperatures (Fahrenheit) up to 482 degrees (F) regardless of the time it is left at this temperature

Regarding tumblers, I made one myself with a 1/2 hp motor, pulleys, and pvc pipe.
I can clean 100 pounds worth and the motor is not working hard.
 
I have the Lyman turboflow tumbler. It works well but I've found a better solution is to get a big spinner style separator and just dump the tumbler into that. The flow part of the Lyman is Ok, but I always ended up with a bit of mess and it takes a bit for it to clear itself out. It is a good large capacity tumbler and seems to be holding up well. It has a fan cooled motor on it which should help with longevity.
 
Kryogen said:
..... Brass which has been "work hardened" (sometimes referred to as "cold worked") is unaffected by temperatures (Fahrenheit) up to 482 degrees (F) regardless of the time it is left at this temperature

.
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Last night I had dry cases in about 1 hr at 175. I'll maybe see if 45 min works next time.

I turned my walk speed up to 2 or 2.2 (MPH??) (previously 1.8) on my treadmill tumbler and I was surprised how clean the brass was after about 1.5 hour of tumbling.

I'm trying to find the sweet spot with my home made set-up, but being down to 2.5hrs is great. I hope to get it even less!

Heading out to shoot another 100 rounds today.
 
Just a FYI but if you plan on using the ss pins to clean any of your quarter calibre (25-06, 257 Roberts etc..) be prepared to pry multiple pins out of the case necks.
 
After googling "home made stainless steel tumbler...I built one myself! It actually works pretty good. I am using a flimsy tub right now so have to beef that up but man -one hr on the machine and the brass is clean. I do that and then full length size and then tumble again to rid myself of the lube. Sounds like I need to update my lube as the stuff I am using is pretty sticky. I built the one that has two rods on pillow blocks attached to a motor and it just spins the tub you place between the two rods.
 
I've been using a Lyman tumbler for years & have always washed by brass afterwards too. Before i decided to wash the brass afterwards, one day I noticed some media dust collected inside the bootleneck of my brass stuck to the RCBS lube. Although however small the amount, I told myself it couldn't be good for the bore of my rifles. I take the time necessary to keep them kleen now. My next purchase is definatetly the stainless steel pin media & tumbler. Time reloading is better than working:)
 
Kryogen said:
Even 275 would not hurt brass

Optimal Case Temperatures for Successful Annealing

Brass is an excellent conductor of heat. A flame applied at any point on a case for a short time will cause the rest of the case to heat very quickly. There are several temperatures at which brass is affected. Also, the time the brass remains at a given temperature will have an effect. Brass which has been "work hardened" (sometimes referred to as "cold worked") is unaffected by temperatures (Fahrenheit) up to 482 degrees (F) regardless of the time it is left at this temperature

Regarding tumblers, I made one myself with a 1/2 hp motor, pulleys, and pvc pipe.
I can clean 100 pounds worth and the motor is not working hard.
Click to expand...

Here's a great article on Brass annealing. A must read for those interrested.

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...=bpUhUeNJ6qXvaPD3KFrpNg&bvm=bv.41867550,d.dmQ
 
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