Wet vs dry
- Thread starter Southcountryguy
- Start date
If you are happy then your happy.
I find ss wet tumbling gets the flash holes and primer pockets cleaner and brass gets shinier. I prefer it simply to avoid the dust and mess that is separating brass from media.
I often toss loaded rounds in my vibratory cleaner as a final step.
I find ss wet tumbling gets the flash holes and primer pockets cleaner and brass gets shinier. I prefer it simply to avoid the dust and mess that is separating brass from media.
I often toss loaded rounds in my vibratory cleaner as a final step.
I went stainless/wet a few weeks back, have only ran it twice thus far so take my impressions with a grain of salt.
Brass comes out looking cleaner than new. I ran a squirt of dishsoap and a sprinkle of lemishine (sp?) in my tub.
I only ran the tumbler for 2hrs on initial clean and an hour and a half after resizing/depriming. Next time I'll run it 2 hours after depriming as the odd case had a tiny bit of residue in the primer hole after 1.5hrs.
My first attempt to separate and clean the media was a pita. I poured everything into a large flat Tupperware, rinsed with hot water, picked out the brass, poured media into a mesh strainer, rinsed again, tried drying media in a towel. The towel idea was ####. The pins stuck in the towel all over, so I chalked it up as a learning curve.
Second time went better. Poured into flat container and rinsed everything better than last time, put in fresh water and stirred around before draining. Repeated that about 10 times. Pulled brass out and dried in a towel. Poured clean pins into a mesh strainer and let drain for a while. Poured pins back into flat container and dried with my wife's blow dryer.
I was cleaning .280 A.I. brass and was surprised by the number of pins lodges cross ways in the case necks. I would say that out of 140 pieces I had to pop pins out if around 30 necks. Not difficult at all, but one more step that can't be ignored.
For the price I would buy it again overall. The quality of the cleaning is second to none. I'm sure things will only get easier as I work out any kinks and refine my work flow.
Again, I've only ran it 3 times if you include the initial pin cleaning so some of my minor issues could be my own lack of experience.
Brass comes out looking cleaner than new. I ran a squirt of dishsoap and a sprinkle of lemishine (sp?) in my tub.
I only ran the tumbler for 2hrs on initial clean and an hour and a half after resizing/depriming. Next time I'll run it 2 hours after depriming as the odd case had a tiny bit of residue in the primer hole after 1.5hrs.
My first attempt to separate and clean the media was a pita. I poured everything into a large flat Tupperware, rinsed with hot water, picked out the brass, poured media into a mesh strainer, rinsed again, tried drying media in a towel. The towel idea was ####. The pins stuck in the towel all over, so I chalked it up as a learning curve.
Second time went better. Poured into flat container and rinsed everything better than last time, put in fresh water and stirred around before draining. Repeated that about 10 times. Pulled brass out and dried in a towel. Poured clean pins into a mesh strainer and let drain for a while. Poured pins back into flat container and dried with my wife's blow dryer.
I was cleaning .280 A.I. brass and was surprised by the number of pins lodges cross ways in the case necks. I would say that out of 140 pieces I had to pop pins out if around 30 necks. Not difficult at all, but one more step that can't be ignored.
For the price I would buy it again overall. The quality of the cleaning is second to none. I'm sure things will only get easier as I work out any kinks and refine my work flow.
Again, I've only ran it 3 times if you include the initial pin cleaning so some of my minor issues could be my own lack of experience.
If you leave bigger rifle brass in for too long, you’ll get peening (slight reduced diameter) at the mouth of the case. Not a big deal if you’ve still got prep to do. For a final clean, keeping it short (20 min) is best.
Every case should be checked for media. I’m sure this is probably true for vibratory cleaning as well, but the stainless pins will trash your decaping pin. Pistol is more of a pain in large batches.
Like said above. Brass looks better than new. I don’t really see any negatives over vibratory cleaning as far as the finished product is concerned.
Every case should be checked for media. I’m sure this is probably true for vibratory cleaning as well, but the stainless pins will trash your decaping pin. Pistol is more of a pain in large batches.
Like said above. Brass looks better than new. I don’t really see any negatives over vibratory cleaning as far as the finished product is concerned.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I now have the Frankford Rotary. I used to have a vibratory cleaner that I used Lyman media in. I also once owned a Hornady Ultrasonic cleaner. I prefer the current Frankford, but a few things I noticed. Is easy enough to use, but I have most of the accessories to sort and recover the brass and the pins. I just lay out the pins on a cookie sheet to dry for a day or two - stir then up after 1/2 day or so to "mix". Do not try to clean pulled bullets and previously fired brass at same time - those bullets will find their way into the brass case, a few of those pins will follow and then they are stuck in there! When done properly, seems to clean inside and outside about perfectly. Not so sure that is really needed or not for any measurable performance - pretty much just "for the eyes", I think. My very earliest "cleaning" was to simply slosh about 50 or 100 cases in a bucket with warm water and dish soap; then back and forth in a big bath towel with white gas sloshed on to cut through the oil based sizing lube that I used at the time. About every third or fourth loading, I would scrape primer pockets with a pocket cleaning round brush from RCBS. When I would do that pocket cleaning, was a habit to look through and verify that the flash hole was still clear - no junk in there.
For new brass, and really clean looking rotary tumble brass, I dip into a mica powder brush thing, to get smidgeon of lube on inside of neck before sizing. I believe that the bit of carbon from un-tumbled brass does the same thing - easier to size, I think - do not hear any "squeaking".
For new brass, and really clean looking rotary tumble brass, I dip into a mica powder brush thing, to get smidgeon of lube on inside of neck before sizing. I believe that the bit of carbon from un-tumbled brass does the same thing - easier to size, I think - do not hear any "squeaking".
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Thanks for the input all. I should have never posted this as my tumbler quit this morning. I am hoping it’s just a connection that I can fix but I may be in the market again. It’s over 30 years old so I am not complaining.
Wet tumbling does sound like more of a PITA than dry. For me cleaning is more to take sizing lube off than anything else. An old T-shirt is generally my go to then I tumbled when brass appears “dirty”.
One thing I know for certain is that this forum costs me a lot of money. Lol
SCG
Wet tumbling does sound like more of a PITA than dry. For me cleaning is more to take sizing lube off than anything else. An old T-shirt is generally my go to then I tumbled when brass appears “dirty”.
One thing I know for certain is that this forum costs me a lot of money. Lol
SCG
Terry Perkins
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Bruce County
Wet tumbling is safer. Dry tumbling can cause lead to be dispersed in the air.
Primers for reloading contain lead. Unless labeled as having 'lead free primers', the primary explosive agent in primers is lead styphnate.
Primers for reloading contain lead. Unless labeled as having 'lead free primers', the primary explosive agent in primers is lead styphnate.
calibrecarstairs
CGN Regular
Another vote for the FA.
Dry tumbling is a filthy mess no matter how many dryer sheets you use.
SS pins are a pita so I started using .22 brass. Easy.
I recently came across the idea of adding Armor All Wash and Wash instead of Dawn as wet tumbling leaves the brass "too clean".
In theory it provides a little lube for resizing and keeps it shiny longer.
Dry tumbling is a filthy mess no matter how many dryer sheets you use.
SS pins are a pita so I started using .22 brass. Easy.
I recently came across the idea of adding Armor All Wash and Wash instead of Dawn as wet tumbling leaves the brass "too clean".
In theory it provides a little lube for resizing and keeps it shiny longer.
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Curiously, how much lead? Lead being so heavy i can’t imagine how much is airborne.
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
This has been talked a lot here in the past. There are two camps for sure. I am comfortable doing it based on the information that had been shared in those threads. I do so at my own risk.
I use both. Dry media clean case before resizing.
You want clean case to enter your die. Nothing else.
After sizing, I WT my rifle case. Not handgun, it’s useless.
But more than the shine, wet tumbling has no benefit over dry media cleaning. It wont change anything on target.
If you use wet, make sure you remove the primer… I purchased a bunch of 9 mm case wet tumbled with primer on. While sizing, a majority of primer were rusted in place and the recapping pin when through the primer top cup leaving the primer cup side wall in the pocket…a sure way to scrap good case..
You want clean case to enter your die. Nothing else.
After sizing, I WT my rifle case. Not handgun, it’s useless.
But more than the shine, wet tumbling has no benefit over dry media cleaning. It wont change anything on target.
If you use wet, make sure you remove the primer… I purchased a bunch of 9 mm case wet tumbled with primer on. While sizing, a majority of primer were rusted in place and the recapping pin when through the primer top cup leaving the primer cup side wall in the pocket…a sure way to scrap good case..
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Fair enough. Thanks.
Thanks. My motor on my thumbler quit this morning. I have looked and appears it’s nothing I can fix. So contemplating the FA rotary from cabelas.
I use and like dry. I don't have much problem with dust. A bit of dust when pouring it through the strainer, but I tumble in my garage anyway. Wet is just as messy, as you have to dispose of the lead/water, then dry the cases, the benefit of course is that the lead is not airborne ever.
I usually set my tumbler for 5 hours, set it and forget it. I can do other things and come back to it days later if I want.
I usually set my tumbler for 5 hours, set it and forget it. I can do other things and come back to it days later if I want.
