Terry Perkins
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Bruce County
You can use concentrated lemon juice from the grocery store. It works for me, don't need much.
Wet vs dry
- Thread starter Southcountryguy
- Start date
It cleans it without any dust, the media doesn't get stuck in the flash hole, cleans the primer pockets. It also removes any lube used in any previous operations. As to any of the rest of your stupidity. If you want a reasonable answer don't act like a moron. I attempted to answer the question, but you have decided to be a ___t!
I've used both methods over 1000's of rounds each. Wet S/S is SUPERIOR.
Wow, quite the sassy response.
- Rice is not dusty - see the article on tumbling with rice I posted
- I've never got media stuck in a flash hole - again, see that article on tumbling with rice I posted
- Do you notice any performance gains from cleaning the primer pockets? Do your groups tighten up? Does ES/SD shrink?
At the end of the day, what matters is the performance down range. I'm not entering my brass into a beauty pageant, but I do care how it performs down range.
My flash holes never plug up either. I use crushed walnut from Princess Auto, with a splash of NuFinish. Wet will absolutely clean better, but I am in the same boat as KTthomas, I'm not sure cleaner really helps, from the results I can get from the dry vibratory tumbler. At least for my requirements. ( my goal is consistent 1/2 moa out to 1000 yards. ) Once I upgrade my scale, dies, barrel, turn necks, and do a new OCW with my barrel tuner on, and practice more in the wind, I may try wet. lol
The whole point of reloading is to make the best performing ammo.
It’s about consistency. Some like it consistently spotless with no foreign residue or tarnish (just like factory). And some like it consistently dull and spotted with brasso residue on them. (or whatever smelly additive you use)
To each their own. Just as long as we’re all headed to the same end goal. Small groups!
I agree.
If people want to use blanket statements to say that one method is superior then the other, then that needs to be quantified with actual objective metrics.
If people just want shiny brass for the sake of shiny brass, then have at it. There's nothing wrong with wanting shiny brass, if that's your main objective.
Personally, I want to accomplish making the best reloads for my rifle (precision, low ES/SD), while maximizing my efficiency in the reloading room.
On the note of vanity and pretty looking brass. Lets say I live in an area with quite hard water and, if after I separate the SS pins from the brass, I let the brass air dry, I end up with water spots on the cases. Short of drying the outside of each with a towel, is there something I can add to the water to help? Currently I use dish soap and Lemishine, but I think the spotting would be coming from my "rinse cycle" to make sure all the cases don't have residual soap suds in them.
Once again to reiterate, this is simply for vanity to make my reloads look like brand new factory ammo and not because I think having water spotted cases will cause my groups to be worse
Once again to reiterate, this is simply for vanity to make my reloads look like brand new factory ammo and not because I think having water spotted cases will cause my groups to be worse
Water spots come from water droplets. When you finish rinsing and drained then throw them onto half a big beach towel and fold the other half of the towel over, roll them lightly them carry on with your normal drying procedure.
That's only one of the possible reasons to reload, not the only reason to reload.
I load maybe a few hundred "precision" reloads in a year, i don't do much precision shooting any more because it doesn't thrill me like it once did. I load several thousand rounds for milsurps, other old or oddball rifles, and plinking ammo. That ammo is as good as factory ammo but it's not by any means attempting to be the "best performing" ammo. Half of it is loaded with Lee dippers because it's good enough for my purposes in that cartridge. Same is basically true for most of the high volume handgunners, they don't need the best possible, they need good enough to hit the target at 10-20 yds.
On the note of vanity and pretty looking brass. Lets say I live in an area with quite hard water and, if after I separate the SS pins from the brass, I let the brass air dry, I end up with water spots on the cases. Short of drying the outside of each with a towel, is there something I can add to the water to help? Currently I use dish soap and Lemishine, but I think the spotting would be coming from my "rinse cycle" to make sure all the cases don't have residual soap suds in them.
Once again to reiterate, this is simply for vanity to make my reloads look like brand new factory ammo and not because I think having water spotted cases will cause my groups to be worse
Have you tried a bit of jet dry in your rinse cycle?
SCG
.30/06 FTW
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Thunder Bay, Ontario
Another thing I forgot to mention was that at least for pistol brass or any brass where you can see into the case, having shiny wet tumbled brass definitely helps you tell the difference between a case with powder or no powder.
