What 3 port muzzle break for AR do you use?

MartyK2500 said:
Both muzzle threads and brake threads we're flushed with brake cleaner and wiped clean before dry fit.
I couldn't see any filings, shavings, or media balls (bead blasting?).


I am aware of these tiny balls as Savage 10 receivers got them between factory barrels and receivers, which require extra caution when threading out a Savage barrel from a model 10.
What should I have done different for next time so I can at least chalk this up as learning experience?
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thread lubricants can help, anti seize compound etc, even most thread lockers act as a lubricant before they dry

And now that you will have a matching tap and die set, you could always "chase" both threads out with your tap/die and some cutting fluid prior to installing just to make sure they are 100% match ahead of time.

Like I said I have never had as big as a problem as you had, but I have had different brand muzzle devices be tighter or looser then others.
 
Lantac dragon, my group has several different brakes including the vg6 and the fat boy I believe it’s called as well as the AAC which only has 2 gills I believe. The Lantac seems to keep the gun the most level and perform best.
 
JohnnyP636 said:
thread lubricants can help, anti seize compound etc, even most thread lockers act as a lubricant before they dry

And now that you will have a matching tap and die set, you could always "chase" both threads out with your tap/die and some cutting fluid prior to installing just to make sure they are 100% match ahead of time.

Like I said I have never had as big as a problem as you had, but I have had different brand muzzle devices be tighter or looser then others.
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Alright
So next time blue loctite it will be, and give the muzzle threads and brake threads a once over with ny repair kit before dry fitting.

I had 3x 308 barrels i had installed brakes on.
All 3 brakes we’re insite arms heathens, they all glided on.
Didn’t know there was such thing as a brake you can’t dry hand tight before testing its threads.

Edit : BTW i do consider myself lucky.
As barrel threads are mangled only first 100 thou or so.
The brake is toast, that one doesn’t have any threads left for more than 1/2”, which means something got hitched at the very muzzle, and was resisting at muzzle tip all the way screwing out.


Hawkmp9
Seems to be lot’s of votes for lantac dragon.
For this one i will stick with my gamma, for another reason.
It isn’t bigger than an A2, which means i can take barrel nut and gas block out without removing brake.
Because of my current situation, once that brake is indexed and tight, it’s staying on for the entire barrel life, no taking chances.
 
Pitch could be slightly off on your threads. Either barrel or previous device that got stuck. Nbd but check it carefully w the device before trying to torque it on. Pitch diameter is 4x diameter difference. That means if dia of cutting tool is off by .0001 then pitch is off by .0004. Id inspect threads for burrs as well as something like fod or a burr could have jammed into the root. Inspect it well prior to assembling it again. And yes, you'll need a chamfer at the end and ensure your lead in thread is deburred and blended to ensure its not grabbing that thread start and pulling it in. Something that looks like it happned here.


For devices. Big fan of AAC and surefire. Both have options for being able to attach a device.
 
AFisher said:
Pitch could be slightly off on your threads. Either barrel or previous device that got stuck. Nbd but check it carefully w the device before trying to torque it on. Pitch diameter is 4x diameter difference. That means if dia of cutting tool is off by .0001 then pitch is off by .0004. Id inspect threads for burrs as well as something like fod or a burr could have jammed into the root. Inspect it well prior to assembling it again. And yes, you'll need a chamfer at the end and ensure your lead in thread is deburred and blended to ensure its not grabbing that thread start and pulling it in. Something that looks like it happned here.


For devices. Big fan of AAC and surefire. Both have options for being able to attach a device.
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I've been cutting threads for a long ass time, and I can't make sense of that... The pitch of a thread is the distance between the crests of the thread (I.e. a 10 TPI thread has a .100" pitch). A pitch diameter error is not likely to cause a galling issue; either the mating parts will go together, or they won't. A form error (Incorrectly cut, or junk/burrs in the thread) or a pitch error (I.e. slightly incorrect number of threads per inch, causing the parts to bind up the more you thread them together) will cause two parts to gall together.
 
Are you 100% sure that the thread on that brake is the same as the barrel?
TNA accidentally sent me a barrel shroud for my JRC that had the wrong thread for the gun. Box and zip lock inside both said it was the correct 1/2x28 thread, but it would only thread on a single turn before binding. The one I was sent had fine 1/2x36 thread. TNA had the correct one on its way to me within hours, new one threaded on by hand with zero binding.
That just seems like alot of damage to hard steel for simply poor/tight threads
 
Unholysavage said:
Are you 100% sure that the thread on that brake is the same as the barrel?
TNA accidentally sent me a barrel shroud for my JRC that had the wrong thread for the gun. Box and zip lock inside both said it was the correct 1/2x28 thread, but it would only thread on a single turn before binding. The one I was sent had fine 1/2x36 thread. TNA had the correct one on its way to me within hours, new one threaded on by hand with zero binding.
That just seems like alot of damage to hard steel for simply poor/tight threads
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Brake did thread 1/2 way through by hand no resistance.
Once it hit resistance, still no tools involved at this point, it wouldn't come out anymore.
Once out, the muzzle thread tip (1/8'' or less) was damaged, but the brake, was damaged more than half-way through (1/2''+).
What makes me not want to blame barrel threads, an A2 was fully screwed prior no resistance whatsoever.

Yes I contemplated cutting brake out rather than forcing it, but was scared it could be worse.
Barrel was in a barrel vise, and I had the 14'' pipe wrench out to unscrew it, it would not come out.
 
I use this one

Precision Armament M4-72 Severe-Duty Compensator


Dont put it on anything shorter than 14.5", its mind rattling even for the shooter :p
 
It does suck, but many things are worst in life than that.
This is a first world problem so i am not sweating it too much.

It's not my last AR (unless the gov says otherwise), and my new threading tools on the way, will also be used to check future muzzle and brake threads.
What does boggle my mind, will i have to start doing that with 308 too?
On my 308 i use 3/4x24 muzzle threads, i see little sense in tooling myself for this.
I always inspect threads before trying, and was pristine clean, so either i was really unlucky, or we have a manufacturer that used out of whack specs for the brake.

I see precision armament has got lot's of votes!
Maybe next barrel, as this one the brake dia gotta be smaller than gas block and barrel nut, i think i'll even red loctite the sumb***h!
 
MartyK2500 said:
It does suck, but many things are worst in life than that.
This is a first world problem so i am not sweating it too much.

It's not my last AR (unless the gov says otherwise), and my new threading tools on the way, will also be used to check future muzzle and brake threads.
What does boggle my mind, will i have to start doing that with 308 too?
On my 308 i use 3/4x24 muzzle threads, i see little sense in tooling myself for this.
I always inspect threads before trying, and was pristine clean, so either i was really unlucky, or we have a manufacturer that used out of whack specs for the brake.

I see precision armament has got lot's of votes!
Maybe next barrel, as this one the brake dia gotta be smaller than gas block and barrel nut, i think i'll even red loctite the sumb***h!
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The die/thread chaser you bought; you mentioned it can be split in half, and you plan on starting behind the damage where the threads are good. Is this dealie designed to cut in reverse? If it's not, you might end up making a bigger mess of things than you started with. Might be better off to take the time with a small triangle file and dress it by hand.
 
MartyK2500 said:
DILLIGAF] You ever tried the VG6 gamma?
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Never had the chance to try one, but everyone that has one seems to love it.

JohnnyP636 said:
Ya I actually saw your wife's X95 on Instagram and Id like to have one on my X95 also, but I bored the one I bought out to accept 9mm for my 9mm AR. And now they are discontinued and I cant find anymore for purchase .
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Ive been that that road as well. modify something to find out they dont make it anymore. :)
 
Scotty454 said:
The die/thread chaser you bought; you mentioned it can be split in half, and you plan on starting behind the damage where the threads are good. Is this dealie designed to cut in reverse? If it's not, you might end up making a bigger mess of things than you started with. Might be better off to take the time with a small triangle file and dress it by hand.
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It is designed to repair AR15 muzzle threads. When you see the youtube video of it, seems to work like my intentioned was of using it.
But you are right, caution will have to be taken, and examine things closely to make sure it starts off right.
As I don't want to end up with a 18.5'' barrel!
Although it's the way to go in a worst case scenario.
 
I had a M4-72 for 223 and another on 308. Both were just amazing. I sold both and switched to flashhiders now, but ive read the Precision Armament AFAB is a good brake and also hides the flash well. Anyone use one?
 
Maybe it's because I dont know any better, but I really like the Miculek brake. Simple, affordable, definitely works well.
 
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