what are these things ? Help

well thank you all. !! not likely gonna use any of it. Might as well put it on the EE now that I know what it is. thanks again guys.
 
If you clean them up they look like they could still be usable. You will probably have to sharpen up the checkering tools a bit.
 
The metal one is to scratch the parallel for your next checkering line to cut. Unless you mean the pliers type, which I believe is a saw set for sharpening hand saws.You need a sailmakers palm for all checkering or they make a gawd-awful blister. I sold all of mine on eBay quite a few years ago for a really good price. Brownell's carry them---spendy!
 
Last edited:
I have one of those positive 7 tools. A saw set eh. Well now I know. I always thought it was some sort of fancy wire stripper LOL.

M
 
I have, and have used, exactly the same saw set. For those who have never sharpened a hand saw, after you file the whole length of saw teeth even, you sharpen the teeth themselves with a triangular saw file, one side and then the other. When this is done you have to "set" the rake on the teeth, so you turn the dial on the front of the tool to the number corresponding to the "teeth per inch", and push each sharpened tooth over to give them the proper rake. Like the sharpening, one side of the saw blade and then the other. It's pretty much a lost art.
 
You can tell the quality of checkering tools by the difficulty of sharpening them. Getting dull in a hurry and being easy to sharpen is the last thing you want. Some would say your find is like hitting the jackpot!
 
Hate to be a wet blanket on the value of those checkering tools but they look like they were allowed to get rusty and then buffed on the cutters to make them useful again...usually this is a fools venture as the saw dust grooves are still filled with rust and they just jam up with sawdust at the first stroke and the curve of the cutter just "rides" the wood afterwards. They just become a "front end gouger" that will tear the diamonds out at the most inopportune times (meaning after you've spent hrs doing a good job and near finished)...now you need another new wood blank as well as new cutters. Sell the handles for what their worth because the new owner will have to buy new cutters I think.
 
LawrenceN said:
I have, and have used, exactly the same saw set. For those who have never sharpened a hand saw, after you file the whole length of saw teeth even, you sharpen the teeth themselves with a triangular saw file, one side and then the other. When this is done you have to "set" the rake on the teeth, so you turn the dial on the front of the tool to the number corresponding to the "teeth per inch", and push each sharpened tooth over to give them the proper rake. Like the sharpening, one side of the saw blade and then the other. It's pretty much a lost art.
Click to expand...

"Teeth per inch" is pitch and the "setting" of the teeth by bending side to side to make a wider kerf is simply called set. To a lesser degree, anyone who can correctly sharpen a chainsaw is still keeping the art alive, though most of the adjustments that can be done to a hand saw, are perma-featured into a chainsaw chain.

Here's an interesting link which explains all the nomenclature, and respective function/purpose of each. I can't count how many chainsaws chains and bandsaw blades I've sharpened and set and still learned some more nomenclature.
http://blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom